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Rattle Can - Flat or Gloss?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Grif
  • Start date Start date
thanks

thanks

Thanks! i think you just saved me ALOT of time and frustration. I will prolly just goto a local bodyshop now and "just do it right".
 
supergus said:
Thanks! i think you just saved me ALOT of time and frustration. I will prolly just goto a local bodyshop now and "just do it right".

Good! Life is too short to go around with a crappy paint job...
 
I dunno... I have done it the rattle can way and it came out really good. I even clear coated it. Most shops around here won't touch motorcycle pieces for under $1,000 a bike... :(
Before and after:
untitled.jpg


xs750004.jpg
 
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8trackmind said:
The Prevail does not have enough pressure to fully atomize the clear. You would have to over-reduce it. Most of the catalized clears will allow up to 10% reduction, but it's not really enough for the Prevail. Still to thick.

The prevail will shoot basecoat pretty well. On the high metalics, it tends to be somewhat spotty but it will work.


OK, I hate doing this. You guys should at least TRY to do things right but...For those of you that just won't listen...:?

There is a two-part clear in a rattle can. It's made by RM. (BASF) The part # is AM2100. With proper tank prep, it will hold up to fuel. One caveat...It really needs to go over basecoat, not rattle can Krylon. You will have to go to a real body shop supply store to get it though. (Not Walmart)

You must know paint pretty well, so I hope you don't mind me asking a related question. I have heard that most paint shops don't do clear, that when you see a really deep glossy finish that looks like 20 coats of clear it's actually in the paint itself (or the hardener, I can't remember what the guy said). Is this true? He said most shops only do clear if they have to, like over leaf or something.
 
Jethro said:
You must know paint pretty well, so I hope you don't mind me asking a related question. I have heard that most paint shops don't do clear, that when you see a really deep glossy finish that looks like 20 coats of clear it's actually in the paint itself (or the hardener, I can't remember what the guy said). Is this true? He said most shops only do clear if they have to, like over leaf or something.

Most painters these days use basecoat. Most of the custom painters also are using base now too. House of Kolor, DuPont, Basf, PPG etc all have basecoat paint lines geared to doing custom work.
If the painter has been painting in a production shop (ie. insurance) they are used to working with it. They also are used working on small areas. (like a motorcycle)
The newer high-solids type clears can be buffed many times, so for the long haul, it will be glossier.
There really is no reason to use single stage on a bike. You can get better results with a base-clear setup. The fact is, there are no new cars that I'm aware of that use single stage.
Plus, it's way easier to do your pinstripes or two tones under the clear so you don't end up with paint ridges.
(Btw, My bike has no tape stripes, they were all done in base, under the clear)
taildetail.jpg
 
8trackmind said:
Most painters these days use basecoat. Most of the custom painters also are using base now too. House of Kolor, DuPont, Basf, PPG etc all have basecoat paint lines geared to doing custom work.
If the painter has been painting in a production shop (ie. insurance) they are used to working with it. They also are used working on small areas. (like a motorcycle)
The newer high-solids type clears can be buffed many times, so for the long haul, it will be glossier.
There really is no reason to use single stage on a bike. You can get better results with a base-clear setup. The fact is, there are no new cars that I'm aware of that use single stage.
Plus, it's way easier to do your pinstripes or two tones under the clear so you don't end up with paint ridges.
(Btw, My bike has no tape stripes, they were all done in base, under the clear)
taildetail.jpg
Did my own paint job years ago and it held up well. Did the base, then shot clear with blue pearl, and then applied the red panels and black striping. Came back with a few more coats of clear after that. Time to repaint again though due to some chips and a dent I put in the tank after a slight get off in the Hill Country. The bars got pushed into the tank and caused the dent. I'll probably go with the same paint scheme again.
 
ScreamingLiL2stroke said:
cloudbreakmd the paint looks good on the yamaha:-D
Thank you. Horrible seat though huh? I will be painting the 550L I just picked up as soon as I have it running right. :)

yamaha-xs750-78-bikepics-471819.jpg


yamaha-xs750-78-bikepics-471822.jpg
 
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