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rear tire removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Hello all,
Got a quick question for you.. I have done some searching, and have not been able to find a previous post on this, Im sure one is out there..
How difficult is it to remove the rear tire on an 82GS650G Shafty??
I want to get the rear tire replaced and possibly the front, but I am limited to low funds due to an over bering better half *L* so taking the tire off is a must..

Also, I have my motorcycle permit, but there are no inspection stickers on it... do I get it inspected before riding it up to get my liscense test?
or vice versa? hmm, wich I knew a fellow motorcycle rider in my area to help me out.. Take it easy and any help on the tire issue would be geatly appreciated..
Tom
 
Hey Tom,

No idea on the tire (I have always owned chain drive bikes), but you will need to post where your area is if you are looking for some local help. I am sure many on this forum will offer a helping hand if they can.

Mark
 
The OEM tool kit has a cable assembly to compress the front forks, you can improvise. or put a 2x6 under the centerstand This gets the rear wheel up higher for clearence. Take the Muffler loose on the side the axel will come out,disconnect the rear brake, disconnect the lower shock bolts and pull the wheel away from the drive unit And it should come out Regrease the drive splines before reinstalling
 
Thanks for the info.. doesnt sound too complicated, I will give it a shot..
Thanks again
Tom
 
No need to remove/looosen the exhaust. Remove the top bolts for the shocks (and remove the shocks from their studs), and the torque arm on the caliper end of the brake. Do put the 2x6 under the centerstand for more clearance. Remove the cotter pin, remove the axle nut and also loosen the pinch bolt on the other side. Remove the axle, pull the brake caliper off and hang it out of the way (not by the hose, BTW). Pull the tire sideways and down. You'll need the 2x6 under the centerstand so the tire clears the rear fender (or remove the rear fender). Take note of where the spacers go. I believe there's 3 total (one in the drive, one on each side of the brake caliper) to keep track of. Reassembly is the reverse. Grease the splines like Lynn said, and also lightly grease the axle itself. When reinstalling the axle, the notch lines up with the notch in the swingarm (you put a screwdriver in this notch to hold the axle still when tightening the axle nut). Install a NEW cotter pin in both the axle nut and brake torque arm.

Oh yeah, before you go riding, wash the tires with soap and water to get rid of the release agent. Scrub them with a scotch brite pad. And take it easy for the first 50-100 miles.

Torque:
Axle nut: 61.5-83ft.lbs.
Axle pinch bolt: 11-14.5ft.lbs
torque arm nut and shock abosrber nuts: 14.5-21.5ft.lbs.
 
My advice is the same, except I remove the bottom of the shock bolts, as for my GK, it is easier due to all the chrome bag guards. but do not forget to grease the splines plenty.... :twisted:
 
I like this.. getting easier as the posts go on..
anyone else to keep this trend alive?
Thanks everyone!!
Tom
 
If I am not mistaken you will need a completely legal bike to test with on your road test in TX. Go get it inspected, it will be required as will insurance. Just need to find a garage that does bike inspections. Not too expensive, and most places are MUCH easier on bikes than they are on cars.

(I know it says CT, but I lived a LONG time in Houston :))
 
Thanks,
It would have sucked to ride up there for a test and get 3 or 4 tickets..*L*
definately not a good way to score points with the tester..
Thanks for the info..
I cant wait till this summer!!! I want to go on a group ride SOO bad I cant stand it!
Take care all
Tom
 
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