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Rear wheel + 530 conversion

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Hey there everyone, I just got my rear wheel off my bike to remove the rear sprocket and i had a few questions.

The sprocket had french locks on it, but the nuts holding the sprocket in place were loose-- should i apply some blue loctite on the nuts before I tighten them and lock them in place to keep them from rattling?

The axle assembly appears to have wear marks on it. it's smooth still, but should I grease the axle before I put everything back together with some wheelbearing grease?

the bearing pack inside the sprocket assembly appears to roll perfectly smoothly, is there anything I should do with it while it's off? try to work some grease into it?

regarding the front sprocket: i've got it off and everything- there was a..1.5mm thick washer on the front splines, engine casing side-- when I do the 530 conversion, i've been told i need to apply a 6mm washer. is it supposed to just fit around the outside of the splines? will it cause any damage to the output shaft from the motor not having the sprocket seated all the way against it?

any tips or ideas for me to do while I've got the rear wheel off? any recommendations?

Thanks,
Chris
 
The spacer behind my 530 front sprocket wasn't 6 mm, it was more like 3 or 4 I think. But I also have a 13 mm offset, but that shouldn't make a difference in that area right?
 
yea, so after I got a look at all the other parts, i took a gander at the outside bearing (brake disc) side on the rear wheel- the bearing is absolutely shot.

anyone have a preferred place to get bearings? (i'm just gonna do both of them.)

the bearing on the sprocket hub is still pretty good-- should I replace that one as well? it appears to be a rubber baffled/sealed bearing-- any easy way to do it? I would assume it'd be done the same way you'd get the others out--with a wood/brass drift and a deadblow hammer?

edit: strike that-- the bearing in the sprocket hub is not so good. i pulled the seal off of it, but now the seal impedes the movement of the bearing. might as well replace them all

grazie.
 
I would change them all. Take the old brgs to the local brg supply house & they can get them for you. The use of loctite is not necessary but would'nt hurt. A light coating of grease will keep the axel in good condition
& ease removal
 
Bearings

Bearings

I replaced all three in my rear rim at a cost of approx 50.00 CDN I also replaced the fronts were allot cheaper at approx 20.00 CDN. I purchased them all from a local bearing shop. They are easiliy matched. :)
 
I called around to a few local bearing dealers, and the price for the bearings I need, or even their equivalents is like $75 for the 3..so I think i'm just gonna go ahead and order them through bike bandit, since they're supposed to be the identical suzuki parts.

anyone have any suggestions regarding getting the three bearings out? i'm having a tough time with the sprocket hub bearing-- it doesn't wanna come out :D
 
I just replaced my rear wheel and hub bearings, total cost AU$32

hub seal was AU$11
Grand total AU$43


Also replaced front bearings, total cost $18
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:

the one thing i'm not clear on regarding those-- it says the grease seal is not included. what does that mean? would that be the bearing for the hub assembly? *edit* i just looked a little more, and it shows the same part # for the rear wheel bearing for the 1000 and 1100 models too.. HHMMMMM

i've got a '79 GS750E

1977 - 1983 Suzuki GS Models GS750E, L, S Front Wheel Bearing Each ZX024223B $4.99

1977 - 1983 Suzuki GS Models GS750 E, L & S Rear Wheel Bearing Each ZX024225X $3.98

they don't list right or left bearings for the rear, which is why i'd be kinda inclined to think it might be a hub assm. bearing.

"High-grade alloy steel single-roller wheel bearings feature radial ball bearing and 2 protective rubber seals (help keep out sand, mud, dirt and water that can cause premature wear). Grease seal not included. "

gah!! :)
 
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