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Reconditioning a Starter Motor

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheSilencer
  • Start date Start date
T

TheSilencer

Guest
Anyone have advice on how to recondition a starter motor?

I've just removed my starter and would like to not have to buy a brand new one - not even sure if Ill find a new one without ordering it.

Any advice on how to replace brushes, and whatever else needs or may need cleaning or replacing?

Thanks! links to other sites are welcome!
 
here you go!

here you go!

Go to www.stockers.com where you can order the parts needed for your job. Its your call really, you can just replace the brushes and clean the rest, or they sell a complete rebuild kit too...about 1/2 of what a new one will cost.

Going thru this myself actually!
 
Does anyone know of a site that has a pictorial on the procedure?
Thanks again for all the links and info!
 
Most relatively large cities (>100000pop) will have a shop which rebuilds starters. They will replace the bearings or bushings, and the brushes, clean the communicator and check the windings. Usually this service will cost $35-50 CAD. Now I would think that there are such places in South Africa. If not there is a place in the states that sells rebuild kits (brushes and bearings) but I have long since lost the link. Search it out on google.
 
TheSilencer said:
Does anyone know of a site that has a pictorial on the procedure?
Thanks again for all the links and info!
Click to expand...

It's easy. Remove the 2 long bolts and carefully pull off the back cap. Often, brush debris and other spooge gum the thing up. Pull out the armature, clean everything with electrical contact cleaner spray, a bit of grease at the bushings, and reassemble. Check the brushes to see if they're long enough.

Post a picture once you have it apart for further assitance
 
Thanks - Ill give cleaning it a try!

If that fails Ill try new bushes etc. Ill post the pics the moment its open!
 
Cautionary note:


BEFORE opening the starter look for the match-marks between the cap and body.

When you re-assemble it, the match-marks must align.

If you buy the complete plate from Stockers (or wherever) it makes things MUCH easier to install as no soldering is required.


I used tiny tie-tags to hold the brushes back during placement, and then they slid right off.

You MAY have a concern about the armature. It will always be dirty, but if it is just dirty and not damaged it can be cleaned easily with any oil paint thinner...but NOT lacquer thinner.

If it is not in good shape you can sand it down with fine grit.
A sanding block will do the job well, and gives good control.

Before doing anything, put masking tape over the exposed windings to avoid any abrasion with them. they have a lacquer-like coating as insulation and it must be kept intact.


If the armature needs even more work you can use a flat or bastard file. Be VERY careful that you do not touch the windings.

Mine was burned and in quite poor shape so I filed it with the armature held in the chuck of a drill press, where it was pretty stable. That gave me a chance to ensure roundness of the completed work.

Use a LIGHT touch with the file as you want to take off only the barest minimum of material.


Cleanup afterwards is vital as you must ensure that no grit remains behind.
 
starter o'haul

starter o'haul

argonsagas said:
Cautionary note:


BEFORE opening the starter look for the match-marks between the cap and body.

When you re-assemble it, the match-marks must align.

If you buy the complete plate from Stockers (or wherever) it makes things MUCH easier to install as no soldering is required.


I used tiny tie-tags to hold the brushes back during placement, and then they slid right off.

You MAY have a concern about the armature. It will always be dirty, but if it is just dirty and not damaged it can be cleaned easily with any oil paint thinner...but NOT lacquer thinner.

If it is not in good shape you can sand it down with fine grit.
A sanding block will do the job well, and gives good control.

Before doing anything, put masking tape over the exposed windings to avoid any abrasion with them. they have a lacquer-like coating as insulation and it must be kept intact.


If the armature needs even more work you can use a flat or bastard file. Be VERY careful that you do not touch the windings.

Mine was burned and in quite poor shape so I filed it with the armature held in the chuck of a drill press, where it was pretty stable. That gave me a chance to ensure roundness of the completed work.

Use a LIGHT touch with the file as you want to take off only the barest minimum of material.


Cleanup afterwards is vital as you must ensure that no grit remains behind.
Click to expand...
Very good directions, I found to etch the front cover and the back cover to the center case and then line the marks up on reassembly.This reassembly is very important. Nippo tag up 1 brush at 12 and the other brush at 9 and your good to go if this is a 2 brush starter. bmac
 
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