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TPL
Guest
Your R/R is shot, as is mine. FH012AA mosfet simple.... Gray connectors get the stator wires, black connectors to the battery. I have one on order as well as a new stator.
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Your R/R is shot, as is mine. FH012AA mosfet simple.... Gray connectors get the stator wires, black connectors to the battery. I have one on order as well as a new stator.
What you should have seen is either no change between the BEFORE and the AFTER or a slight increase in voltage.
If you are measuring from the R/R(+) plug to the Battery (+) you should be seeing less than 0.2V no more than 0.75 volts at 5000 RPM.
Something sound very fishy with (+) side voltage drop measurements; untill they make more sense it is hard to conclude anything.
Did the voltages go back up after restoring the original R/R? It is possibel the stator is dying in which case you would not be able to go back to the better volatges. Regardless the huge drops you are seeing don't make much sense.
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Rocketman
Guest
I agree and that's what I was hoping for by bypassing the hot lead through the harness and going direct to the battery (+), but everything went backwards. Used similar guage wire as the stock rr+, and thought it was the 20amp in-line fuse, but I doubt that had any impact.
Yes. Everything returned to normal after I re-plugged the red wire back into the original harness plug.
This confuses me, and I apologize again. But what exactly am I comparing the .2 to .75v drop to? Is it a before and after comparision, comparing the stock volts at 5,000 rpm, to the new volts with the multimeter connected to the rr(+), or is it the volts at idle vs. the volts at 5,000 rpm with the meter installed? And why the heck am I getting this cycling fluctuation between 4.1 and 14.9v? Is this test supposed to result in a steady voltage read out?
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TPL
Guest
Yes, it is just intended for connection points to the mosfet R/R
I intend to ground as you have shown in your thread, I am also taking your advice to solder in stead of connect.
Now what about the positive side, why any other way?
see attached for better explanation, there are alot of crimps between the R/R(+) and the battery(+). That is why alot of people opt to just run a direct wire between R/R and battery. It changes the current flow though.
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Rocketman
Guest
I think my bike and I are feeling much better today. I spent the last two days replacing wire ends and connectors, pulled off the main ground wire and cleaned both ends of it up on a wire wheel. Cleaned and polished most every (+) and (-) connector I could reach involved with the charging system. I'm still going to solder the fuse box wires and replace all the fuses later, but for now, I think the new numbers sound OK:
Bike off with full charge.....13.03v
Lights on for 15 seconds ...12.40v
Initial Idle ......................12.85v
2500 rpm .......................14.13v
4000 rpm .......................14.00v
5000 rpm .......................14.00v
Final Idle ...................... 13.45v
These numbers seem improved over the previous ones, the battery will be charging better, so I think I am good to go. Will most likely replace the R/R anyway, as a 30 year old stock r/r could be questionable, but at least the urgency is out of the way.
Thanks for everyone's help and advice, and good talking to Duane. Who would have thought any one head could have such a wealth of electrical information?
We'll talk again.
Larry
Bike off with full charge.....13.03v
Lights on for 15 seconds ...12.40v
Initial Idle ......................12.85v
2500 rpm .......................14.13v
4000 rpm .......................14.00v
5000 rpm .......................14.00v
Final Idle ...................... 13.45v
These numbers seem improved over the previous ones, the battery will be charging better, so I think I am good to go. Will most likely replace the R/R anyway, as a 30 year old stock r/r could be questionable, but at least the urgency is out of the way.
Thanks for everyone's help and advice, and good talking to Duane. Who would have thought any one head could have such a wealth of electrical information?
We'll talk again.
Larry
Well it looks marginal, and you maybe revising it in 6 months. The Quick Test is to help in diagnosis not as a final checkout.
You should measure the voltage drops as shown here.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1427966&postcount=26
R
Rocketman
Guest
I tried running a direct lead with a 20 amp fuse from the RR+ to the battery + to eliminate any potential voltage drops on that leg, and my voltage readings went down instead of up. No explanations were given as to how that could happen. So, trust me, I am taking your advice, but the results are confusing.
Did you measure the voltage drop? That is the only feasilble way of measuring how good your R/R to battery connections are.
As you might have sensed, I did not particularly like those R/R connections (you new connections) but the test above would be an nonsubjective discriminator.
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Rocketman
Guest
I would really love nothing more than to measure the voltage drop between the rr(+) and the battery (+), but again, the results are confusing. I am connecting the black digital multimeter lead to the battery (+) and the red digital multimeter lead to the red output wire of the rr. At idle, I get 0 as a reading. As I ramp up to, and eventually get to 5,000 rpm, the reading fluctuates every 3 to 5 seconds from 4.1v to 14.9 volts and back to 4.1 volts, and on and on. I think I'm supposed to be getting a fixed/steadymultimeter reading of less than 0.25v. I don't yet understand why my readings are fluctutating, and again after reading the instructions and asking here, I don't know why the hot lead of the rr to the battery would read between .25 and .75v if there's juice running in that wire, at 12 volts or more. How do you measure a voltage drop in a hot wire anyway? And believe me, I know a lot about my bikes, but I'm nowhere near as knowledgable about electrics as you all are, but I must be missing something obvious here. Sorry if I'm aggravating you, but its giving me a headache too.
I don't understand what is going on with your meter. Have you tried another? It is possible that the R/R is acting funny, but I have done this same test and it is the same recommended in the original stator pages. The only change I have made is to do the test a full current load when the bad connections will show up.
We are talking about really small resistances causeing relatively big voltage drops. Many meters will only measure to 0.1 ohms and at 10Amps that would equate to a full volt of drop. So just a little corrosion could casue that.
See the wire running between the R/R to the Battery is not just a low resistance current path; there are small resistances typically at the crimp connections. Any resistance will generate a voltage drop and since the R/R regulates voltage at it's output not from the battery voltage that drop directly corresponds to charging errors(at teh battery).
Lets say you have 14.5V at 5K RPM at the output of your R/R; there is also 10 amps flowing out. 0.1 ohms of resistance would have you with only 13.5 volts at the battery. The 1.0V drop would be observable by measuring the drop from the R/R(+) to the battery(+).
When you measure the overall battery voltage, you don't know if it is low because of the stator , the R/R setpoint or the voltage drops.
K
koolaid_kid
Guest
I don't see how that large of a variance could be caused by the system, unless the R/R is toast.
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aviliora
Guest
confused issu
confused issu
Hi,
This is odd,voltage across the battary in any rpm did not pass the 13v its mean no charge but at looking at the main light the brightens of the light chang so what is going?
Thaks
Avi
confused issu
Hi,
This is odd,voltage across the battary in any rpm did not pass the 13v its mean no charge but at looking at the main light the brightens of the light chang so what is going?
Thaks
Avi
