Rick's R/R ohm check different than stock ?

[Redman]

The ohm check on the R/R tonight checked out as follows:
- all those that should be infinite did test infinite.
- all those that should conduct did conduct, but measured 2.5 ohms not the 7-8 ohms stated in Suzuki manaul. (On cheapy Home Depot $20 meter)
- the one that should conduct at about 30 ohms, did conduct but at 3 ohms.
So, to me, it seems like a requlator, and I suspect that is just the difference between a Ricks design verses a Suzuki design.

Anybody have any specific expereince checking out a good Ricks R/R to know if the ohm readings are different than the Suzuki stock R/R ?

History:
82 GS1100GK
Last year the stock R/R failed, and burnt the ground wire that runs thru the wiring harness (muzzle-fruzzle-frizzle-rats, I said). THe stator past all the tests. I replaced the R/R with a Ricks.
NOw this spring it is barley charging, like only 12.9 volts at battery at mid & high rpm. Did the stator open circuit volt test and found 2 phases at 60-70 vac and one at about nothing. So have a Ricks stator on its way.
And I did the R/R ohm check per the Suzuki manaul, with results as stated above.

 

[Redman]

Further info

Further info

This from Zuki 1100GK manual about the R/R check, and from Clymer manaul for general scmatic of charging system, and my notes from checking my present Rick's R/R.

 

[Steve]

Does your "cheapy Home Depot $20 meter" have a "Diode check" scale?

Meters have improved since these bikes were made. Rather than check the ohms, use the diode check function on the meter. This will give you a reading of about .500 or so, which is the voltage it takes for the diode to conduct. The reading might be anywhere from .450 to .600, but they should all be pretty close to the same. In my opinion (for what that's worth), it is better to check the diode's forward voltage than to check its resistance.

Oh, to use the diode check function, just look for the diode symbol (it looks like a triangle that is pointing to a bar across the wire), put the function selector in that position and then do the checks like outlined in the Suzuki, Clymer or Haynes manuals. The only difference will be that you are looking for about .500 on the display instead of 7 or 8.

.

 

[Redman]

Steve,

No, my cheapy $20 meter doesnt have a diode test feature.

But my Fluke AM-15 (about $75) that I use at work does. But I never bothered to learn what the meter reading meant in the diode check mode. I have observed with leads open it reads 2.55 V, and with leads shorted it beeeps and reads 0.3 mV. Thanks for explaining this. Yah, I understand foward bias a diode junction (actaully made a transistor in a lab and tested it and used it in a circuit, ah, 32 years ago).

Here is what I found checking the R/R with the meter in diode-check mode.
Meter negitive on the R/R red (output), then meter positive on
- R/R phase = 0.55 V
- other phase = 0.55 V
- other phase = 0.54 V
- R/R ground wire = 0.76 V
Meter positive on R/R red, and meter positive on any other it read the 2.55V (open).
Seems to follow the same pattern as the ohm check values in the Suzuki factory manual for checking the stock R/R.

Any comment?

Hey, now that I think of it, doesnt the stator papers discuss using the diode check to check R/R? I think I recall ignoring that before. Yah, and the stator paper procedure "C" has more checks than what I listed above. Better go back out and do those other checks.

Thanks Again,
Dave