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Sealing Right Side CrankCase Cover

  • Thread starter Thread starter Markus
  • Start date Start date
Markus said:
The clerk at napa suggested instead of cutting out a paper gasket, to use this Motoseal Gasket Maker. Anyone ever used this before (Or a product along the same lines) for this purpose? I bought it, and researched it a bit and found very few people using it to seal the crankcase cover, typically it was used for sealing crankcase halves?

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...-motoseal-1-ultimate-gasket-maker-grey-detail
Click to expand...

Sure, I've used silicone RTV plenty of times on plenty engines of various types. The one trick is - just enough and no more. The tiniest amount will seal a case when it's tightened up and you only get to know what works by trying it. You need to put a smear on, let it partially set, put your case on, tighten it up, let it cure.
Right, 24 hours later *WITHOUT RUNNING THE BIKE* take it off again and examine the mess you've made, because if this is the first time, you will have used too much and it's just as well *YOU DIDN'T RUN THE BIKE* because you'd have blocked oil passages or the strainer, or god knows what.
Right, now you've got the feel of that, do it again and only use enough.
It DOES work, but only if you're not a donkey.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of donkeys out there and the stuff has a bad rep because it became a bodgers' and donkeys' tool of choice. When it's used properly it's a very effective and worthwhile thing to have in your workshop, if you're careful.
 
Thank you! Great Advice, that was my biggest concern about using the product. I'll follow those steps, I have no reason to start the bike anyhow! haha.
 
Cut a gasket from paper. The surface area for the cover is pretty narrow to try to seal with silicone.
 
I use only OEM Suzuki gaskets and never have leaking problems. What i see as the major leak inducing factors are tiny areas of old gaskets left on a mating surface or the mating surfaces being gouged and scarred from removing the old gaskets.

If you go slow and carefully remove ALL the gaskets without causing surface damage then youll not have any problems. Now if you do tear up a surface, then a light smear of RTV on the that area only before installing the new gasket will take that dimple to task and stop a leak before it happens.
 
Now, I appreciate all the feedback. . . I was planning on only using the motoseal permatex...to seal the crankcase cover, Originally I planned on sticking to the paper gasket but the clerk at napa suggested this would be easier. . . Removing the old gasket will be no problem without damaging the surface, do you all highly suggest using a paper gasket, as was original, over the permatex seal?
 
Markus said:
Now, I appreciate all the feedback. . . I was planning on only using the motoseal permatex...to seal the crankcase cover, Originally I planned on sticking to the paper gasket but the clerk at napa suggested this would be easier. . . Removing the old gasket will be no problem without damaging the surface, do you all highly suggest using a paper gasket, as was original, over the permatex seal?
Click to expand...
Not really. If the casing faces are in good condition and if you can get a good quality paper gasket (OEM for preference), then go with that. Though I'm an advocate of RTV I generally only use it where I can't get a genuine gasket, or the casing surface is a bit hacked, or time is tight. There are also places where I wouldn't use it at all, like cylinder base gaskets, where I make an effort to find OEM ones and only use a smear of some sort of sealer (like Hylomar) around areas that are known to weep. If you bear this kind of thing in mind, you will use RTV (of whatever make/type) where it's appropriate and avoid the donkeys' mistakes by side-stepping the issues.
 
I am solidly behind the OEM Suzuki gaskets for all my engines. Never have any problems with them. But thats just my 2 cents worth.
 
I'm sure it works fine if done right but personally, I would probably use silicone gasket maker in a pinch. And even then, only if a sheet of suitable gasket material and working xacto knife could not otherwise be found.

If the bike is not going anywhere for a while, you have time to order the OEM gasket. If you want to save a little money, an aftermarket gasket should work as well, with a slightly higher chance of leaking sooner than you want it to. The only gaskets where you absolutely, positively must buy OEM are the base gasket, head gasket, and usually (depending on model) the valve cover gasket.
 
Throw that sealer crap in the trash where it belongs. Better yet, leave it on the shelf, and administer two sharp raps on the nose to the auto parts monkey whilst instructing him to stick to low-tech appliances like Chevrolets.

Another factor no one has brought up yet is that gaskets have other functions besides "keep oil in". The OEM gaskets have a certain thickness which is sometimes crucial to the operation of whatever's under the cover.

For example, on some bikes (no idea about yours specifically) the shifter shaft will bind if you use a thinner gasket or no gasket. Or on the other side, the little shaft for the starter gear can have issues if a gasket isn't used. On bikes with the tachometer drive in the valve cover, a thinner or thicker gasket can cause problems with the gears meshing.

There's also the issue that "future you" will HATE "past you" for using such a shameful, useless bodge -- "future you" will have a lot more scraping and cleaning to do if he needs to get into the clutch again.

Do it right. Order an OEM gasket that's the right material AND thickness. Install dry. (Case and valve cover gaskets can be installed with a light coat of grease to ease future removal.) No sealer, unless there's a horrible gouge somewhere -- in that case, only a teensy, tiny little smear in that exact spot.
 
if the case sealing areas are a little beat up or pitted, i like using copper gasket spray on the gasket.

the stuff for head gaskets. very little chance of using too much if you spray one coat or 2 if its real bad and it will seal up small imperfections.

Brian
 
I've done a lot of research, it's such an opinionated subject, and for an inexperienced amateur like me, I believe my final decision will be to go with the OEM gasket, which appears to be the most fail-proof of the options for a newbie. I have until May about before obtaining my license and the snow being off the ground. I have the time to wait for shipping. The only major concern I have is forgetting how the bike goes back together by the time I get to reassembling it. (I drew out vague diagrams of each part and reassembly) I have printed the Clyme's Manual supplied on Basscliff's site and it is my nightly read though! Very interesting stuff. I appreciate all the feed back, and I have to say, as a young enthusiast that this site is literally amazing! I never would have imagined so much feedback and intel on a subject, and wish I had a community of people like this while learning to tear apart my car!
 
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