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Shift indicator o-ring, idle mix screw questions.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Macmatic
  • Start date Start date
M

Macmatic

Guest
So I just got back from a run down to Fork Rucker and when I went out to start unloading the bike I found my first ever oil puddle! :( I was able to figure out pretty quickly that it was coming from the gear indicator sender so I'm guessing oring is bad. I pulled it and the ring is intact and pliable but somewhat flattened. My question is can I use a standard hardware store metric oring or does this need to be viton? I'm headed to NY next weekend and I don't really want to order any new parts right now but I guess I've got time if it has to be viton.

My second question is about the mix screws. I'm pretty sure that when I adjusted the mix by the highest idle method the engine wasn't fully warmed (this was 2+ years ago) and I want to reset the mix before I leave but my carbtune is NY now. Will adjusting the mix screw up my balance badly? Mileage has been sucking but 90% of my riding has been in and around Atlanta so I haven't cared that much. I really tried not to push it on the way to Rucker and was only getting 28-30mpg and when I first had the bike on the road I was getting 38-42.

Thanks!

/\/\ac
 
I would bet that a standard Buna n Oring would work fine there Mac, as Viton is not only fuel resistant, but HEAT resistant as well. Yes, it probably gets warm down around that selector, but I doubt as warm as it does at the head. Worst case scenario, you use a Buna and it fails in a few month/years and you have to replace it again. Its not hard to do...

On your idle adjustment screws. They wont effect sync. They have nothing to do with sync, so your carbtune is useless for that purpose. Go ahead and adjust them. Remember, the bike is at its richest when its fully warm, so run it around for a bit and get it good and warm before you adjust.
 
On your idle adjustment screws. They wont effect sync. They have nothing to do with sync, so your carbtune is useless for that purpose. Go ahead and adjust them. Remember, the bike is at its richest when its fully warm, so run it around for a bit and get it good and warm before you adjust.


Thanks for the info. I was worried that changing the mixture would effect the vacuum... something like a more complete combustion having more energy and volume so changing the volume of the next intake charge one way or another.

I'm pretty sure that when I last messed with the mixture and reset the float heights I was in a hurry to get on the road by the time I got to the mix and rushed it but got it "good enough"....to ignore.
 
Thanks for the info. I was worried that changing the mixture would effect the vacuum... something like a more complete combustion having more energy and volume so changing the volume of the next intake charge one way or another.

I'm pretty sure that when I last messed with the mixture and reset the float heights I was in a hurry to get on the road by the time I got to the mix and rushed it but got it "good enough"....to ignore.
Well changing the mix will have some effect on vaccum, but SYNC is purely mechanical. When you sync the carbs, you're assuring the butterflies are all opening the amount required to make the vaccum the same across the carbs. If that opening doesnt change, then your mixture setting changes will have little to no effect on vaccum pull.
 
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