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Soft wire wheel or hard-brush wheel?

  • Thread starter Thread starter lilbilly
  • Start date Start date
L

lilbilly

Guest
I had a friend mention to me to try using a brass wire wheel on a drill or metabo to clean up the engine/cases. Anybody tried something like this? Too coarse?

Also considered a scotch-pad like bristled wheel I saw at Advanced auto that you attach to a drill, said it was for removing rust/cleaning up old metals. Anyone used anything like that?
 
IF you decide to use a wire wheel. brass if the better way to go. BUT a wire wheel will take a lot of metal off fast. Even a brass one. The polishing balls are far better in my opinion. Flitz has a nice line of stuff that works great.
 
Even a soft brass is real aggresive

How corroded are you cases (picture please)
 
I have tried all kinds of wire wheels, and they seem to take off too much material, and leave deep scratches to me. I have had great results using SA (Standard Abrasives) Buff and Blend 3" discs, these are very similar to scotchbrite brand. I have a box of each fine-med-and course, and I usually go from medium to fine, and then to the buffing wheel. Coarse leaves scratches on soft alloys that are difficult to work out. Thankfully Caswell Plating is just down the road from me so I get most of my supplies there....I use a Baldor 8" buffing machine with a multitude of different buffs. Usually after the fine discs, I go to a sisal wheel with black compound on the buffer, then to a sewn cotton buff and brown compound, then for a real deep shine, a loose cotton or flannel buff, and white compound. Looks like chrome when its done (well...almost!)

Now you don't need to go crazy buying all that stuff....you can get a couple cheap buffs, and a variety pack of compounds, and have great results as well....check out your local sears..they have a small supply usually. The hardest part it seems is removing the clear coat from aluminum. I have tried alot of different strippers with mixed results, but the SA discs take it off with minimal effort

Now I don't know about doing the whole engine this way, but I have done numerous engine covers and cases on many bikes with great results. I typically use a aircraft type stripper on accessible parts of the actual engine, and a brass brush to remove as much paint and grease as possible, and use a good high temp paint such as VHT (also from Caswell)...Good Luck!

Jeff (teet)
 
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DO NOT use any kind of wire wheel on your engine case!! Your in for more greif than you want. I know from experience. start with 600 grit sand paper and work to a finer grit like 1000 then 1200 for a mirror polish. then a good polish..
 
Trust what these guys say, the bike I purchased the PO used a wire wheel and it scared the cases so bad I have to get a new left side case for the bike. Now I'm PO'ed.Elbow grease works best and time, you don't want the scars that a wire wheel can cause. Emotionally too when you see what you did to your girl...:cry:
And no I didn't do it to mine it was already like that, but I did do it to a front rim on a xs 650 yammy I had. Find a good laquer stripper and follow the directions. :cool:
 
sachsaca said:
Now I'm PO'ed.Elbow grease works best :cool:
Click to expand...


And someone really sells the stuff :lol:

elbowgrease.jpg
 
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