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Sorry Guys

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bones
  • Start date Start date
B

Bones

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I just read the thread from Sticky and realized that I should have given you guys a run down on my ride.

I have an 82 Suzuki gs650e that was given to me by a friend who aquired it in trade for some landscaping work. The bike has been sitting, since 1981, out in someone's back yard. I got the bike last year, and almost gave up trying to fix it. The bike has only 11,568 miles. The carbs are Mikuni BS32SS

All of the aluminum is oxidized so it looks ugly. There is some texture material splattered on it. (I guess someone textured their house) The fork seals were bad, the seat is torn, and there is some minor rust on the frame. (not a pretty picture) I want to make sure I can get it running before I tackle the cosmetic part of the bike.

Here is what I have done to it so far:

1) Flushed out and replaced the oil and filter
2) Checked the compression (within specs)
3) Removed and cleaned carbs (noticed different jet sizes)
4) Rebuilt petcock (torn diaphram)
5) Replaced Spark Plugs
6) Replaced Turn Signal Switch (not working)
7) Bleed out the old brake fluid
8) Replaced fork seals
9) Inspected the boots (fore and aft)

Here is what my bike is still doing:

1) Hard starting (hot or cold)
2) Slight poping noise on idle
3) Backfiring at about 2500 RPM
4) Bogging down at around 5000 RPM (choke off)
5) Reving up past 5000 RPM (half choke)
6) Slight rattle in the CAM area (is this normal?)
7) A thunk can be heard when it backfires (where?)

I read all of the replies from my previous postes (and the Q&A) and decided to remove the carbs again and use a dip to clean them. Right now I have all the carbs out and separated. Carbs 1 and 2 have been dipped, rinsed with carb cleaner, and reassembled. I am also putting in the correct main jets (97.5) and inspecting the throttle and diaphram.

NOTE: Be sure your work area, your tools, and your hands are clean. (I found out the hard way) Also be sure to use a lint-free cloth to wipe down your parts.

I don't know how to clean the tank yet. I am going to remove the float assembly to see if there is any rust. I didn't notice any in the carbs, but I couldn't run it for too long.

This bike will be my first one. I am unable to purchase a newer ride due to finacial difficulties. (minimum wage):(

Thanks again for your help amd motivation. Now its time to dip some more carbs.:p
 
keep up the good work, mate!

to your list i would only add to check the valve clerances

also, i wonder about the jets being non-standard sizes. is the intake and exhaust stock or aftermarket?
 
psyguy said:
keep up the good work, mate!

to your list i would only add to check the valve clerances

also, i wonder about the jets being non-standard sizes. is the intake and exhaust stock or aftermarket?
Click to expand...

The intake and exhaust are both stock. I will check the valves also.

Thanks

Bones
 
On your hard starting hot or cold, check your choke cable and adjust or replace if bad.

Make sure your pilot air jets are clean ( sometimes these are overlooked )

Check your pilot jet sizes by doing plug chops to make sure it is not lean or rich. ( should be tan to light grey but not white or black in color )

Check your overall mix with plug chops and adjust to make it easier to start.

Check to make sure the vent hose(s) are not being kinked when the tank is re-installed.

Intake o-rings replaced?

Don't forget to bench sync the carbs, then vac sync after re-installing.

Make sure your plug gaps adn plug heat range are correct for your model.

Coil relay mod would not hurt to do.

Hope this helps.
 
safety first. Tires and brakes are the first priority but it seems you have dirty carbs and a real fix is to rebuild them. Get a o-ring kit from cycle-orings.com or PM Robert Barr on this site. 14 dollars is a great deal for the kit of rings for the carbs. The carb cleaner in a paint can costs around 20 dollars.

So for a princely sum of about 35 dollars you can spend a day rebuilding the carbs and that should solve a lot of problems. Use the carb rebuilding guide on the home page of this site, but when you take the float pins out, use a pair of small wire cutters to pull the pins out, tapping on them breaks the towers. Ask how I know.

After the bike runs better look at the tires, brakes (including the master cylinders) and the bearings in the head and swing arms. You may have limited funds but these things need checking. A 25 dollar repair manual on ebay would be a great investment. There is no such thing as a free puppy or a free motorcycle either.
 
Just to add to the mix....

Before reassembling the carbs, check the float heights and adjust if needed.:)
 
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