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spark plug boots/caps

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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on my 82 gs850gl (electronic ignition), do the spark plug boots/caps have resistors in them? i want to cut the wire and replace with aftermarket boots/caps. thanks for any help. ps: the plug wires dont have resistors, do they?
 
spark plug boots/caps

thanks billy, that was fast. has anyone successfully removed and replaced the stock plug wire form the stock coil (all one piece now)?
 
The wires are held in place with plastic clips and a glue similar to hot glue. They can be dug out and replaced. 8mm wires are too big and 7mm are a little small. Use 7mm wire and wrap a turn or two of electrical tape around the end so the wire fits snugly in the coil. Then use a zip tie or electrical tape wrapped around the front of the coil and the wires to hold them in place.
 
Resistors in plug caps.

Resistors in plug caps.

Now hold on one second!
They may not have a resistor in them but they do have a resistance value. I know that for my 81 650GSL it has a resistance from plug cap to plug cap through the coil of about 33K. And working on my buddies 1980 GS1000L when I took off the end caps (which screwed into the ends of the wire) I had several that were bad and had a resistance of 50K just in the caps themselves.

I know in the Dennis Kirk catalog, the aftermarket NGK caps come in 1K and 5K versions although almost all were the 5K types.

Did that just confuse you more?
Steve in OK
 
spark plug boots/caps

yes i am confused as to what to install now. also, i'm doing a seperate post on this: i just measured between plug wires 2 & 3 and got 33k ohms (good). between 1 & 4 i get no reading (OL on my digital meter). the bike is running fine except for the ocasional stumbling around 3000 rpm's. i did not disconnect any wires from the coils under the tank however. any ideas??
 
Resistor wires are used to EMI supression. You can use them or just use copper wire instead. If you don't have a radio - who cares! :lol:
 
spark plug boots/caps

so, in my case (82 gs850gl), when i go to buy plug boots, do i need boots with resistors ? wires with resistors ??
 
Depends on how curtious to your fellow motorists you want to be.
 
Open circuit on coil secondary.

Open circuit on coil secondary.

The fact that you got an open when you measured between the end caps of cylinders 1 and 4 seem to me to be the problem. There is an open somewhere in either the wire, cap or coil. Then the spark has to jump not only the gap in the plug but also the open in the wire. It would seem to my simple mind that this would weaken the spark. If your caps are like mine (81 GS650L and 80 GS1000G) they screw into the ends of the wires and the wires are not suppression wires like on a car (carbon instead of copper). You could check to see which cylinder, either 1 or 4 is bad by checking the spark (laying the plug on the cylinder head) or a timing light sometimes will show a gap in the flashes when the spark is weak (something I am battling right now on the GS1000G). When you find the bad side of the coil, you could unscrew that end cap (if it works like mine) and check the resistance with the end cap off of the rest of the coil circuit and just the end cap by itself. When you take the end cap off you have to fold back the rubber cover where the wire goes into the cap first.
Good luck.
 
First The original wires are solid core and the caps are resistor type. The original wire is usually molded into the coil and soldered to a terminal. They can be replaced if you use a little creativitly. I did it to my 79GS850 last year. To replace the wires you need to use the same setup that the factory used Re: solid core wires and resistor caps. There is no proper way to use auto style wires unless you use aftermarket coils. You should KEEP the resistor feature it is very important with the electronic ign
 
You should KEEP the resistor feature it is very important with the electronic ign
Click to expand...
Are you sure about this? The electonic ignition whould only see the secondary resistances reflected back through the coils. The resistances prior to the spark jumping the gap, using resistor wires or not, should be the same -> infinity.

My understanding about resistor wires (or caps) is that they are there for EMI supression. That and that alone.

I would like to find out where additional info is available to support your statement. I am curious as to the details of this arguement, as I have a professional interest in this subject.
 
Never had a plug wire problem on a GS. But the resistor plug caps, I have. The plug caps come apart. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the part that slides on the end of the plug. If you look up in there, you will see the slot. The resister will fall out when you take it apart. I packed mine full of braided copper wire, then screwed the little part that goes on the plug back in place. It will make static on radios, but it takes care of the plug cap problem.
 
plug boots

plug boots

i called NGK about spark plug boots and they recommend two xb05f (stock #8062), and two vb05f (stock #8032) for my 82 gs850gl. these caps have a resistance of 5000 ohms. i'll try to get them tomorrow and post results. i do want to thank everyone for the input.
 
NGK caps are fine Should cost $3-4 @ verses $18-20 @ for the suzuki part
 
Swanny said:
Depends on how curtious to your fellow motorists you want to be.
Click to expand...

I've been thinking about using bare copper wire to see if I can disrupt some of the cell phones around here and get the cagers to shut up and drive. :lol: Or ant least not share the same lane with me as the drift back and forth across the lanes while looking up numbers to call on their cell. :x

Mike
 
When you buy a set of Dyna or Accel coils the wires and boots that are sold for them are just standard automotive type. No resistor caps or wire.
 
spark plug boots/caps

here's an update. i removed my plug boots today. two of them (which i believe are good ones), read about 10k ohms each. when those 2 boots were attached to the coil i was reading 33k across that coils secondary-that reading was right on spec, so that means the 10k ohms (each) on those 2 boots is good. now, the other two were way out of wack. one read either an open (OL on digital meter) or 5meg ohms as different times, the other about 1meg ohm. those boots were on the coil that was showing OL(overload or infinity) for a resistance reading when measured at the boots while connected to the coil. i installed NGK boots (xb05f & vb05f) which are 5k ohms each. this dropped my secondary readings from boot to boot (and through the coil of course) to 22k (from 33k ohms). NGK and my local shops say that's perfectly ok. since the NGK's are each 5k ohms less than the stock setup (10k each stock boot), that accounts for the 10k ohm loss per boot-to-boot measurement(including coil). the bike seems to run stronger, especially in the midrange now. i have a seperate post "engine misses at low rpm's" and hopefully i cured that problem today. todays ride was soothing. for those interested, i believe the coils read about 12k ohms through the wires with the boots removed. that would make sense when you add in 2 stock boots of 10k ohms each..ie: 12k(coil & wire) + 10k(one stock boot) + 10k(one stock boot)= about 33k. ps:the stock boots are defiently the resistor type. i unscrewed the cap internals and held the resistor. the moral or the story is to get the old questionable boots off- you'll surely notice a difference. thanks again
 
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