Stability of clip-ons ? 1979 GS750L project

[standswithabeer]

have never installed a set of clip-ons before, and the torque value wasn't provided so i just snugged them up. one moved a bit while moving the bike around my "shop" so i snugged 'em all a bit more, just enough i think. bolts are 6mm dia, with usual torque for steel fasteners being around 6-7 lb-ft. not sure about threading into aluminum however.

when straddling the bike and wiggling the bike pretty hard by the clip-ons, there's no movement now. but, if i give a small tap on the grip end w/a rubber mallet i can get it to move. is that usual? of course, there's no knurling to provide a mechanical lock on as on regular handlebars, just friction alone stabilizes them.

thx,
bob p

 

[LAB3]

Sounds like it'll work, until it doesn't. More than likely you'll hit a bump or some similar hazard and have them slip, not the time you want to be wishing you could pull over and adjust them. Maybe an old piece of inner tube or vinyl to act as a shim between the tube and clamp would help? Probably would keep a bit of vibration away from your hands as well.

 

[Gorminrider]

or maybe a layer of masking tape can work suprisingly well where a clamp is a bit oversized.... But in any case per " if i give a small tap on the grip end w/a rubber mallet i can get it to move. is that usual?" Yes, it's a dumb question and No, you should not be able to move the clipons that way. Or any other way.

 

[standswithabeer]

well, it turns out i was way too conservative when snugging up the bolts. i loosened and then brought each bolt to 40in-lbs to settle things, then a final torque of 80in-lbs. i then double-checked the torque a few times, followed by smacking w/my mallet and serious yanking by hand. those boys are on there, are properly torqued, and won't move unless i tip over some day. : )

i was more worried about the bolts pulling the threads out of the aluminum body than i should have been. they came up to torque no problemo.

thx guys,
bp

 

[jsandidge]

I've also heard of using sticky-backed sandpaper to help hold clamps in place.

 

[standswithabeer]

they slid on with no clearance available for any sort of tape, so not an option for me. but maybe in other cases. gotta post a pic some day, but she's pretty nakid and unfinished at the moment.

 

[Steve]

... bolts are 6mm dia, with usual torque for steel fasteners being around 6-7 lb-ft. not sure about threading into aluminum however.

Just for reference, the M6 bolts that hold the valve cover on are torqued to 6-7.5 ft-lb.
They are threading into aluminum.

well, it turns out i was way too conservative when snugging up the bolts. i loosened and then brought each bolt to 40in-lbs to settle things, then a final torque of 80in-lbs. i then double-checked the torque a few times, followed by smacking w/my mallet and serious yanking by hand. those boys are on there, are properly torqued, and won't move unless i tip over some day. : )

If you do the math, the 6-7.5 ft-lb you felt was too loose is 72-90 in-lb., pretty much right where you ended up.

It might be time to check the calibration on your torque wrenches.

.

 

[standswithabeer]

ah, thx for the reference to the valve cover torque!

re: the initial tightening, i just snugged them up by hand, no torque wrench used.

i discovered the clamping load was insufficient but was worried about pulling the threads so i asked the question here. reviewing the answers i then torqued to 40in-lbs on each then up to full torque of 80in-lbs.

 

[Guest]

The torque spec for an 04-05 GSXR600 is 16.5 lb-ft or 23 Nm. I would think it should be similar to most any others that are aluminum.

 

[Guest]

The torque spec for my 1982 Katana with aluminum clip-ons is 6.0-8.5 ft/lb per the service manual.

 

[Gorminrider]

i loosened and then brought each bolt to 40in-lbs to settle things, then a final torque of 80in-lbs. i then double-checked the torque a few times, followed by smacking w/my mallet and serious yanking by hand. those boys are on there, are properly torqued, and won't move unless i tip over some day. : )

i was more worried about the bolts pulling the threads out of the aluminum body than i should have been. they came up to torque no problemo.

well, Good on you for being careful and using a torque wrench! Funny they didn't clamp the first time 6.5 ft/lbs...so I'm amost wondering if you ran out and got the smaller torque wrench! Because the big ones read ft/lbs and can't really do such low numbers like 6.5 versus the little ones that read in/lbs...

 

[standswithabeer]

they didn't clamp the first time as i was worried about stripping out the threads

"re: the initial tightening, i just snugged them up by hand, no torque wrench used."

but then i did torque them properly after discussion here. i have in-lb and ft-lb torque wrenches, properly stored of course!

 

[Guest]

The torque spec for an 04-05 GSXR600 is 16.5 lb-ft or 23 Nm. I would think it should be similar to most any others that are aluminum.

The torque spec for my 1982 Katana with aluminum clip-ons is 6.0-8.5 ft/lb per the service manual.

With the difference between these two Suzuki factory specs, he may want to contact the manufacturer and see what they recommend.

 

[Grimly]

With the difference between these two Suzuki factory specs, he may want to contact the manufacturer and see what they recommend.

Hmm... that reminds of the Haynes misprint somewhere in the Book of Lies for the GS850 that tells the hapless owner to torque some 6mm bolts to 17 lb/ft. Should be 7, of course.
Surprising how a simple mis-tripe could lead to so much wailing and gnashing of teeth over the years, as the next owner discovers many stripped threads.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Just thinking out loud��. Could the installation of clip-ons to the fork tubes cause a crease or damage the chrome so that fork seal replacement would become problematic?

 

[GregT]

Just thinking out loud��. Could the installation of clip-ons to the fork tubes cause a crease or damage the chrome so that fork seal replacement would become problematic?

Definite NO.
This sort of thing is why, over the years, all the clip-ons I've made have been made with welded on tubular bolt-through clamps.
6mm fasteners, yes, but capscrews and nyloc nuts. They don't move.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Ok. Honest answer to a dumb question. My bad. Carry on.

 

[Cipher]

gosh an important subject this. Its bad when you lose a grip and fly off the handle.

 

[Rob S.]

Tres droll, Cipher.

Talking about gripping things onto chrome forks, I used to think the main reason for inverted forks was to lessen the unsprung weight. Turns out it's so the triples have a larger, less slippery area to clamp on to.

The lesser unsprung weight is a very minor, secondary benefit.

 

[standswithabeer]

just continuing this topic, as it's still too crappy to ride. there are many advantages to upside-down forks. their larger diameter sliders have less flex which results in improved handling and feel, the slider bushings have a greater surface area on which to act, and they have less weight overall. there are many sources for this info, here's one.

https://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/2002/february/the-reason-behind-upside-down-forks/,