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stalling

  • Thread starter Thread starter niko
  • Start date Start date
N

niko

Guest
hi all,
im having a problem with my gs550, it runs great through a ride, i can run all over town, then at random as i am coming up to a light it will sputter, idle drops and if i dont bump the throttle it will stall, sometimes it will also dip below 1100 rpms coming up to a stop and then catch itself, ive done most of the obvious reccomendations from this site, since when i got it it didn't run at all, ie cleaned/dipped carbs, checked valve clearance, air filter, r/r, new old igniter, went through electrical connections although the plug wires/coils are old and questionable, and i just bought a new negative battery cable that i havent put on yet. i think it is running slightly lean, as the plugs look tan but maybe a little grayish near the tip, i gave the fuels screws another half turn and that seemed to help a little, but the thing is that it runs and idles perfectly most of the time and then at maybe one stop in thirty or forty will sputter and/or stall. also it idles at 1100 with the thumb screw on the carbs all the way out so it isnt opening the butterflys at all...

thanks for your thoughts

edit - once idle drops below 900 or so the gauges will flicker in time with the engine...
 
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Check the plug wires & caps are good - perhaps replace the OEM caps with NGK ones...

Check the colis are not intermittently grounding out against the frame through the mounting bolts - I had that issue with the same bike.

Something doesn't sound right about the idle knob if you say it doesn't do much ??

Good luck,

Mike
 
the knob works but at 1100 rpm it is turned completely out, i checked resistance on the coils and plug wires and the numbers checked out, but i am still wondering if they are intermittently causing a problem, how did you fix the grounding problem?
 
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You may have two things going on here, based upon your description of two different issues.

For the stalling thing, have you changed out the intake boot o-rings? My 700 was doing precisely that after I pulled it out of a seven year storage. Drove me nuts, thinking it was carbs, then ignition. Finally changed out the intake o-rings,a nd the problem magically went away. Spray some WD-40 into the intake boot area while idling, and see if rpms change.

As for the low rpm light flickering, check voltage across the battery terminals from 800-5,000 rpm. It should exceed 13-13.5v somewhere around 1,500-2,000 rpm, and then pretty much steady out in the 13.5-14.5 range to infinity. If it doesn't, you have a regulator or stator issue.

That wouldn't really cause the stuttering idle issue.
 
i haven't vacuum synced them yet, i bought the equip to make a manometer today, but havent put it together yet, i did bench sync them, and its not happening all the time which is what's throwing me off, if it is a sync problem shouldn't it happen all the time
 
boots are in good shape, no leaks when i spray around the carbs/intake anyone know where to get orings besides robert barr, he doesnt have a set up for my bike.
 
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niko said:
boots are in good shape, no leaks when i spray around the carbs/intake anyone know where to get orings besides robert barr, he doesnt have a set up for my bike.
Click to expand...

www.babbittsonline.com



As for the idling with the adjustement screw turned all the way out, the fuel/air mixture screws can accomplish that themselves if they are turned too far out.
 
niko said:
...anyone know where to get orings besides robert barr, he doesnt have a set up for my bike.
Click to expand...


You can get the o-rings from Robert, I have the same bike/carbs & I used the CV kit from him. There will just be extra o-rings as compared to the 4 barrel set-up.

He doesn't list that bike because those 2 barrel CV carbs are different from the standard 4 barrel he's used to...

I think you want the large sized intake o'rings, but maybe just buy both the large & small sets to be on the safe side - they're cheap enough...

Don't remember the bolt dia or length on the intake boots, but make sure you replace them with SS allen heads. I seem to remember one or two of them were shorter than the rest? Good luck removing them - might as well rebuild the cam chain tensioner while you're there if it looks like it's been leaking a little oil. Mr. BikeCliff's web site has a great little tutorial for that...

good luck,
 
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thanks for all the input i definitely have a few more things to try, and ill put in an order with robert, i appreciate everyone's help
 
Is your throttle or choke cable length set too tight and holding the butterflies or choke circuit open enough that your idle won't drop below 1100RPM?
 
no they close completely, i got the rack of carbs off of ebay and im wondering if thery are jetted differently, i thought that i had compared that when i rebuilt them, but it was last summer and im not entirely sure, they definitely are the same carb bodies.
 
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