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starting click but no turn over

  • Thread starter Thread starter mrhedges
  • Start date Start date
M

mrhedges

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Just wanted some advice from the experts. I have a '82 gs550L. The previous owner stated it needed the carbs rebuilt so I started with new o rings new intake boots and new airbox boots put it back together found that the battery was dead took it to advanced auto they said it was a goner, replaced battery, still no luck, jump started, the motor turned over once and horn all the lights work but tried again just got a click. my buddy told me might be a bad ground or a bad starter, advice? should i clean all the connectors? whats a good starting point for diagnosing? not excited about removal of carbs and airbox but i can check ground without doing this correct? the strange thing is that the motor turned over once but won't do it again.
 
Check all the grounds and the positive leads to the selinoid...The 2 big nuts on top may be loose.
 
Also once you get it all cleaned and sure all the connections are tight, recharge the battery again. If your charger has the "start boost" setting thenn use that while your cranking it over. Give it that little extra crank power. If one of my bikes has set for a long time i do this and always get a good strong cranking.
 
Check the cable ends where the round rings clamp to them..may have some faulty connections or such there as well. expecially at the battery where acids can eat strands of the cables up rather easily.
 
alright so I did some checking and figured out that the starter was bad, by pulling it out and hooking it up to a car battery, pulled the starter from the parts bike that one spun so I installed it, still nothing but if i jump the starter relay it spins, the connections look clean my friend told me he thinks its a faulty solder job. could i just replace it with any new 12v starter relay? we checked the one on the parts bike and it seems bad too.
 
I just got a new(not used) starter relay on Ebay around 20 bucks shipped.Solved my starting problems.
 
chuck hahn said:
If your charger has the "start boost" setting thenn use that while your cranking it over. Give it that little extra crank power.
Click to expand...
This makes me VERY nervous.
c4.gif


That "extra power" they sometimes give comes in the form of extra VOLTAGE (to reduce the number of amps necessary).
That extra voltage can kill your Rectifier/Regulator.

This is also why we say NEVER JUMP START FROM A RUNNING VEHICLE.

.
 
"Just to confirm: The starter relay "clicks" loudly when the starter button is pushed but the starter motor does not crank the engine. Correct?

By "jumping the starter relay", do you mean that you are using a heavy conductor to connect between the two large studs (battery + cable and starter cable) on the starter relay?

If all is well when bridging the heavy relay connections, the issue is almost certainly with the relay or its control circuit. If the relay "clicks" loudly when the starter button is pushed, the relay is most likely the problem. Some voltage tests would confirm but not likely needed.

Many of these old relays can be pried apart and cleaned but a new one from an inexpensive source might be the best option unless you are handy with refurbishing.

Use of the boost setting on battery chargers can be risky when applied to motorcycles but not for the reasons stated. The boost selection always raises voltage as one cannot raise current. One can only reduce resistance (outside the charger's control) or increase voltage. Current level is a result of the voltage & resistance relation. Over voltage can be a risk to permanent magnet alternator voltage regulators so boost or use of other power sources should be undertaken only with consideration. A voltmeter is always indicated, IMO.

There are many suitable starter relays available to fit small power equipment and similar applications unless one requires an original appearance. In a pinch one could use a starter solenoid from an automobile such as a 1970's Ford. These are over kill in terms of capacity and size which may not be important but the current flow required to operate can be higher than motorcycle switching will tolerate in the long term.



mrhedges said:
alright so I did some checking and figured out that the starter was bad, by pulling it out and hooking it up to a car battery, pulled the starter from the parts bike that one spun so I installed it, still nothing but if i jump the starter relay it spins, the connections look clean my friend told me he thinks its a faulty solder job. could i just replace it with any new 12v starter relay? we checked the one on the parts bike and it seems bad too.
Click to expand...
 
Steve said:
This makes me VERY nervous.
c4.gif


That "extra power" they sometimes give comes in the form of extra VOLTAGE (to reduce the number of amps necessary).
That extra voltage can kill your Rectifier/Regulator.

This is also why we say NEVER JUMP START FROM A RUNNING VEHICLE.

.
Click to expand...

I'd be more worried about frying the ignitor. Especially on the 550.
 
... how's your positive cable to the battery?

When I got my 750 it would only 'click' when you hit the button... then I poked around at the battery and the damn positive wire fell out of the eye-connector connected to the battery.

Things that should have soldered connectors on your wiring harness...

- Every single ground.
- Positive lead
- Negative lead
- Anything from the R/R, anything from the Stator

The starter solenoid also needs a good ground to the frame/(-) battery as well.

Here's how I tested my solenoid and starter.... Touched the solenoid lead to the positive on the battery and the starter almost jumped off the work-bench (next time I'll use a C-clamp).

*leave a charger on 4A (medium) charge over-night... then, as you're doing tests... leave it on high (6A, or 8A depending on your charger).

In the picture below I have the green alligator clip from the lead to the (+) on the battery, the solenoid bolted to the (-) a single lead going to the starter from the solenoid, and to test... touch the wire on the (+) to the other prong on the solenoid.

If no worky... no worky... if worky... it's still on the bike.

424018_643816011027_1535045524_n.jpg
 
thanks everyone for the replies! so i resoldiered the relay and reattached it, and guess what? it worked, just once... think i might have a short? wish i new more about electronics, i just downloaded a bunch of files about general automotive electronics so i can understand. going to do some reading and charge my battery....

maybe i should look into replacing the relay...
 
Last edited:
mrhedges said:
thanks everyone for the replies! so i resoldiered the relay and reattached it, and guess what? it worked, just once... think i might have a short? wish i new more about electronics, i just downloaded a bunch of files about general automotive electronics so i can understand. going to do some reading and charge my battery....

maybe i should look into replacing the relay...
Click to expand...


Dump the relay. All you need is one for a lawnmower or other home equipment, and they can be readily found in many hardware stores for less than $10. With this cost for a new one, it is just not worth playing with defective ones.

Note: Home Depot is NOT a hardware store, but they do sell some parts, so there is a small chance that they will have what you need.


I still did not see it stated clearly that you have the problems solved, except for the relay.

A commonly misunderstood problem within the starter often occurs, and can give the same sympotoms you describe: worn brushes.

With bad brushes the starter will usually not work at all, but before it reaches that stage the starter might turn on its own, but will not accept load, so the engine will not turn or start,

You can get the necessary parts, if needed, at www.stockers.com

Before disassembling the starter, watch for the match marks on the cover and case as they must be in correct placement when re-assembling.
 
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