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Stator???

Not sure which one is "preferred", but have you upgraded your regulator? :-k

The SH775 R/R is highly recommended to help preserve whichever stator you purchase.

The SH775 is readily available from wrecked Polaris ATVs for under $50, but you have to watch the eBay ads VERY carefully to make sure you are getting the real thing, not a cheap Chinese look-alike knockoff.

Chinese knockoff:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Polari...531792?hash=item361630d050:g:wpsAAOSw~o5aXwAi
From the ad: it's "new", it comes from China, the bottom panel is black, the fins are all straight, and there is no lettering on the back, away from the connectors.

The real thing:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8318-2013-...842920?hash=item441c13e8a8:g:lowAAOSw72Na15yo
Numbers on the back fin are not shown, but the bottom panel is metal, there are round nubs on several fins, it is 'previously used' and it is FROM a 2013 RZR, not FOR a 2013 RZR.

This one clearly shows the number on the back fin:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Ra...820056&hash=item545e42284e:g:H0UAAOSwL4lbKE5N

Another one that clearly shows the numbers:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-POLAR...345175?hash=item1a519c43d7:g:R7QAAOSwbA5bFaLG

The knockoffs are getting better at looking like the real thing. The round nubs are one factor. All of the real units have them, but so do some of the knockoffs. However, if there are no nubs, it's definitely a fake. The metal plate on the bottom is now on some of the fakes, but the real units definitely have them. Read the ad carefully. They will claim it is "for a Polaris RZR or Ranger". Any aftermarket company that hopes to sell parts will claim their parts are "for" that vehicle. It's better to have a used one that came from a Polaris RZR or Ranger. The clincher on the deal is the "SH775" on the back fin. If it's not there, don't buy it. If you find one that appears to be good, but doesn't show the back fin, ask the seller.

.
 
tom203 said:
Take your pick..likely made in same factory as this one. Needless to say, get a series r/r and enjoy

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STATOR-SUZ...S550-ASU4001/132220474512?hash=item1ec8f45490
Click to expand...

all of the electtosport stators for the 1100es I have seen use a heavy blue epoxy (compared to that picture). However I have seen other ES stator listed that do not have the heavy epoxy.
ES also claim higher output , which is probably only at idle) if using a series r/r I would go ES with heavy epoxy is that is what is listed for your bile
 
posplayr said:
all of the electtosport stators for the 1100es I have seen use a heavy blue epoxy (compared to that picture). However I have seen other ES stator listed that do not have the heavy epoxy.
ES also claim higher output , which is probably only at idle) if using a series r/r I would go ES with heavy epoxy is that is what is listed for your bile
Click to expand...
I just got a new ES stator for each of our bikes for our "little ride". Alas, no blue. :oops:

A nice layer of epoxy, but it's not blue.

.
 
Thanks, I burned the black wire with the white tracer at the factory splice coming out of the harness back to the frame grounding point. I think my keyed ignition switch is going bad or maybe a good cleaning could save it. My starter also seemed to be turning slower and I will have to check it for dirt and dragging.
 
habsdoc said:
Thanks, I burned the black wire with the white tracer at the factory splice coming out of the harness back to the frame grounding point. I think my keyed ignition switch is going bad or maybe a good cleaning could save it. My starter also seemed to be turning slower and I will have to check it for dirt and dragging.
Click to expand...
That is why I developed and documented the Single Point Ground.
 
Last edited:
I'm just curious, what's wrong with the chinese knockoffs? Are they really a shunt type trying to pass off as a series or are they just junk? Has there been people to have catastrophic failures with them or do they not last or do the job well? I'm just wondering, I know the real deal is always better but what's wrong with the knockoffs? If the new knockoff can do the job why is it better to buy a used one because it's an original sh775?
 
leftlostcommonsense said:
I'm just curious, what's wrong with the chinese knockoffs? Are they really a shunt type trying to pass off as a series or are they just junk? Has there been people to have catastrophic failures with them or do they not last or do the job well? I'm just wondering, I know the real deal is always better but what's wrong with the knockoffs? If the new knockoff can do the job why is it better to buy a used one because it's an original sh775?
Click to expand...

I believe most of the knockoffs you see are just as you suggested - cheap shunts trying be passed off as genuine SH775 series R/R's. That's not to say that they won't function, just that they aren't R/R you think you're getting.
 
Skinner said:
I believe most of the knockoffs you see are just as you suggested - cheap shunts trying be passed off as genuine SH775 series R/R's. That's not to say that they won't function, just that they aren't R/R you think you're getting.
Click to expand...

SHUNT r/r have a well-documented history of burning up stators. SERIES do not.
 
Rick's stator. They are a US base company with a 30 year history.
 
ElectroSport Stator with Ricks stator cover gasket
I changed mine in the 850 last year.

This is it ..
 

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posplayr said:
The Electrosport Stator come with a new rubber wire gland?
Click to expand...

If you mean the rubber grommet (seal for the wire pass through) --then YES it did.

I am not familiar with the term gland for electrical stuff - but I admit the passing of electricity through wires is black magic to me.
 
Wingsconsin said:
If you mean the rubber grommet (seal for the wire pass through) --then YES it did.

I am not familiar with the term gland for electrical stuff - but I admit the passing of electricity through wires is black magic to me.
Click to expand...

Looks like grommet and gland are used synonymously in this context. If you have multiple holes for wires to pass, then gland is probably more appropriate but would depend on context. I'm doing a solar system at the moment and they use gland to describe waterproof connections (for example PV 2wire entrance to a Junction box).

https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Grommet-Bushing-diameter-cutout/dp/B00KYRKENM
 
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