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Thread Lock Cement

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Suzuki recommends the use of several types of thread lock cement. When reassembling carburetors, their part #99000-32040. For other applications, they recommend

1361A = 99104-32020
1363A = 99104-32030
1363C = 99104-32050

Can anyone translate these into Locktite equivalents?
 
Low strength: Green (6mm and smaller. Penetrating -- can be applied to exposed threads after assembly.)

Medium Strength: Blue (6mm and larger, do NOT use on frequently disassembled fasteners in aluminum -- will damage aluminum threads after a few uses. Can be disassembled with hand tools.)

High Strength: Red (8mm and larger, steel threads only. Will need heat and/or air tools to disassemble.)

For carbs, I'd use only the green Loctite -- the zinc alloy used in the carbs is very soft, and all the fasteners are 4, 5, or 6mm.
 
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Did I make a boo boo?

Did I make a boo boo?

bwringer said:
Low strength: Green (6mm and smaller. Penetrating -- can be applied to exposed threads after assembly.)

Medium Strength: Blue (6mm and larger, do NOT use on frequently disassembled fasteners in aluminum -- will damage aluminum threads after a few uses. Can be disassembled with hand tools.)

High Strength: Red (8mm and larger, steel threads only. Will need heat and/or air tools to disassemble.)

For carbs, I'd use only the green Loctite -- the zinc alloy used in the carbs is very soft, and all the fasteners are 4, 5, or 6mm.
Click to expand...

Mr. bwringer,

This information has me a bit concerned. When I installed my new stator and started reassembly, I realized that I had no Loctite. I found an AutoZone open late and bought the only thing they had. It was Red (High Strength) Permatex, a competing Loctite product. Is this a bad thing? :-s

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Red locktite is usually the strongest you can find.
it will take some effort to get it appart. although it is possible..
may be look into penitrating solvents?
 
BassCliff said:
Mr. bwringer,

This information has me a bit concerned. When I installed my new stator and started reassembly, I realized that I had no Loctite. I found an AutoZone open late and bought the only thing they had. It was Red (High Strength) Permatex, a competing Loctite product. Is this a bad thing? :-s

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

If you did the repair correctly, don't sweat it. My "new" stator has been in place for 24 years. And yes, red strength is overkill unless it's a con rod bearing cap or something like that. I don't think I used any Locktite when I rebuilt my motor.
 
Thanks guys. Maybe I'll get lucky and won't have to take it apart again for 20 years or so.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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bwringer said:
Medium Strength: Blue (6mm and larger, do NOT use on frequently disassembled fasteners in aluminum -- will damage aluminum threads after a few uses. Can be disassembled with hand tools.)
Click to expand...

I've been using the blue stuff (generic product) for most of the threads on my bike. I didn't realize it was damaging to aluminum?

Seems to work quite well, haven't had any problems disassembling.
 
Blue Loctite is my friend. As for red.......grrrr. One time I had the Zook shop replace the chain and countershaft sprocket on my SV650. Next time I tried to remove the countershaft sprocket nut (32 mm, if I recall correctly). With a 1/2 drive wrench and a four foot cheater bar I could not remove the nut retaining the sprocket. My bernzomatic seems to have disappeared so I took it back to the shop and had them get it off. Turned out red loctite had been applied. Might as well have been JB Weld. Since there are retaining tabs, I feel the loctite was uncalled for, but of course the shop people said it was SOP, orders from Suzuki. I was afraid I was going to round the corners off the nut.
 
ahhh Thread Lock Cement.... we could use that on some of the threads round this joint ffs....:-s

sry for hijack -= pls continue....8-[

Phark
 
In my experience, blue Loctite (or permatex) causes a bit of wear on aluminum threads every time it's disassembled. So it's a bad idea for oil filter cover nuts and valve cover bolts.

On 6mm or smaller threads in aluminum, red Loctite will pretty much bring out a good hunk of aluminum with it. So let's all hope that your stator stays healthy.
 
Thanks for the information. I have blue and red, and both of them say "medium". So I'm heading out to get some green.
 
Posted this in the wrong thread last week:

I went to NAPA and found Permatex green threadlock. The package said that it's good for bolts of 2mm and up. However, the chart on the back lists the yield strength of blue, red, green, high-temp, and so on. Green has a higher yield torque than blue. So I kept on looking.

Alpha Sports sells the Suzuki thread lock 99000-32040 for $23.90. Way too much.

An internet search shows that Permatex and Loctite both make a low strength thread lock cement, which is purple. 45 minutes on the phone showed me that none of the local auto parts stores, hardware stores, or motorcycle dealers can order it. So back to the internet. I ordered a tube of "Permatex? Low Strength Threadlocker PURPLE" from a dealer who links through Amazon, for about $13, of which half is S&H.

The following web site has comparative descriptions of all Permatex thread lock compounds. It includes thread sealants, and a "thread repair" material that is meant to permanenetly seal a bolt in a hole with stripped threads.

http://www.caswellplating.com/permat...adlockers.html

Purple:
OEM specified. Low strength threadlocker designed for fasteners under 1/4" (6mm) that require occasional adjustment. Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly. Noncorrosive.

Suggested Applications:
Carburetors, relay locks, headlamps, throttle body assembly, choke assembly and fuel injection set screws, body panel mounting fasteners.
Green:
OEM specified. A low viscosity threadlocking liquid that wicks along the threads of preassembled fasteners to secure them in place. Since it is applied after assembly, preventive maintenance procedures are simplified. Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2" (2.2 to 12mm) in size. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for disassembly.

Suggested Applications:
Bolts on alternators, air conditioning belts and distributor clamps, carburetor adjustment screws, hairline cracks.
Again, thanks for the help.
 
Hmm, I thought the green was purple. Or something like that...

I didn't know the green has a higher yield strength than blue. In my experience, it's definitely weaker than the blue, even when applied directly to threads. I guess I'd better start reading labels more closely, anyway.

Thanks for all the research! Now I have to get me some of that purple...
 
I was searching for info on thread lock / Loctite cement, with the idea to use it on the bolts which attach my front calipers to the fork tubes. I have never done that before, but read in some other places on this forum that it should be done to make sure the bolts don't get loose. In the second post on this thread, bwringer describes the different kinds of thread lock, and says that Blue Loctite "will damage aluminum threads after few uses". The front forks holding the calipers obviously have aluminum threads, and I've already removed the calipers more than a few times. It sounds like Blue Loctite may be a bad idea.

So what do you think is the best approach? Use lower strength Green Loctite on the front caliper attachment bolts, or just torque them down according to spec and leave Loctite out of the picture? Thanks for your help.
 
The green stuff I've seen is stronger than the blue, I think its purpose was to retain a bearing on a shaft, or something like that.

Red is strong enough to annoy anybody.

I rarely use loctite, and then only blue,and never on carburetors or phillips head fasteners. A couple of ounces lasts a bikes life.

A little heat from a torch does wonders when disassembly is required.

Plumbers thread compound is a nice low strength thread lock.

A blob of silicone is excellent for locking the crappy self tapping sheet metal screws that hold the plastic together.
 
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BassCliff said:
Mr. bwringer,

This information has me a bit concerned. When I installed my new stator and started reassembly, I realized that I had no Loctite. I found an AutoZone open late and bought the only thing they had. It was Red (High Strength) Permatex, a competing Loctite product. Is this a bad thing? :-s

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

The safest way to remove the red loctite is to apply heat ( ask me how i know GRRRR ), before you wrench on it. Hopefully you won't have to replace the stator for years to come!
 
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