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Throttle cable question

  • Thread starter Thread starter donimo
  • Start date Start date
D

donimo

Guest
Hi all, I did do a search first, but couldn't find a solid answer to my issue.

First, yes it is the "turn the handlebars and the revs climb" issue. But my cable is not tight at all.

Also if you wiggle or move the cable at all it does it too.

Now I don't have a factory manual for my weird bike (canada/europe only) but I think a 1983 450E is about the same.

It never used to do this, but I took out the carbs so that may have done it, I want to fix it right the first time, any tips/routing info?
 
Sounds like not enough slack in the cable. Probably too tight from reinstalling the cable to the carbs . Try re adjusting the cable mount at the carb for more slack
 
donimo said:
Hi all, I did do a search first, but couldn't find a solid answer to my issue.

First, yes it is the "turn the handlebars and the revs climb" issue. But my cable is not tight at all.

Also if you wiggle or move the cable at all it does it too.

Now I don't have a factory manual for my weird bike (canada/europe only) but I think a 1983 450E is about the same.

It never used to do this, but I took out the carbs so that may have done it, I want to fix it right the first time, any tips/routing info?
Click to expand...

You need to be careful where you are checking for throttle slack. You said 'not tight at all' but not where. Make sure you can turn the throttle about one eighth of a turn without pulling on the throttles on the carbs. That first bit of pull should just take up slack in the cable. The outer sheath isn't what matters...it's the wire cable inside that has to have some slack in it.
 
Did you lube the cables when reinstalling? I crashed my bike due to a possible bind. I have clip-ons, so I noticed that the factory manual did not apply in terms of how much space is given for the throttle bolts near the carbs as well as the adjuster beneath the throttle. If your bike is not stock and you've changed the bars with something other, I would just use common sense. Enough slack where the carbs are concerned but not too much. If the bike does still rev high then, adjust up at the throttle (that's what I did). And it worked! At least for the time being that is. I also changed the o-rings in the carb intake boots since in a forum search I associated air leaks with high revs as well.
 
Hmm, ok, well there is a lot of slack in the sheath, but that should equate to at least a bit of slack in the cable, non?

I will play with it tommorow...

Stock everything in my opinion, but I am not the OO, the PO may have changed stuff, but it LOOKs stock.

I adusted it as per the manual when I reinstalled, but I will do it again to make sure.

I did not lube them, any tips on that one?
 
Take off the cable or cables from the carbs, take them also out of the right handle switch and get some cable lube at your local motorcycle shop or online. The kits will have an attachment that you hook to either end of the cable to allow the lube to shoot it's way down the cable. I've learned from this site it is a good idea to be thorough and do it from both sides of the cable so the metal cable is completely saturated within it's sheath. If you just get the lube only, you can make a poor man's funnel with a piece of scrap paper or something.

Also, when you go to screw the throttle cable/cabes into the throttle assembly, the first time I did not screw them in almost all the way which was incorrect, so screw them in as far as they will go, then loosen them to where you want your cable to direct and fasten the lock bolt to make any looseness, tight.
 
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