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Time for a new chain?

  • Thread starter Thread starter claygs750e
  • Start date Start date
C

claygs750e

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I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild and have it down to a painted frame. I'm going to put the swing arm on tonight and was curious if I should go through the process of cleaning the chain or replace it.

The bike is a 1980 GS750E with about 30k miles on it when I got it. It looks like it's never been cleaned so if I were to clean it I hear soaking it in kerosene is the best route. How long would you recommend soaking it and what should I lube it with after since I hear so many products that people recommend?

Is there a way to tell that the chain is due to be replaced?

Thanks,
 
Measure the length and calculate how much it's elongated. There are various thoughts on the max allowable amount of elongation but this link lists the max at 1.5%...http://www.diamondchain.com/understanding-wear-life.php

Change sprockets and chain at same time. Stock was 630 type, but most GSR folk move to 530 when updating their chain/sprockets. Z1 Enterprises is a popular source for parts and information. Check the archives here too for tons of threads on this subject.

Good luck
 
I don't understand the types of chain sizes and what the # represent. What is the advantage in changing sizes of chains?
 
A modern 530 chain is stronger, and lighter, and has much less friction. Both of my 1000Es still wear the original 630 size. In the day, the factorys went to 630 because the old junky 530s wen't up to the weight and power of the bikes. That is not the case today.
 
claygs750e said:
I don't understand the types of chain sizes and what the # represent. What is the advantage in changing sizes of chains?
Click to expand...
It's the chain size.
630 chains are being phased out so if you lose a master link good luck finding one in a pinch.
 
claygs750e said:
I don't understand the types of chain sizes and what the # represent. What is the advantage in changing sizes of chains?
Click to expand...

Kind of reinventing the wheel here. A basic google search will explain chain sizing, or search here.

Hint:

630

6 = pitch, distance between pins as measured in 1/8" increments (6/8" or 3/4" between pins)

30 = roller width as measured in 1/8" increments (3/8")

530 is same width as 630 but 5/8" between pins instead of 3/4".

When moving to 530 you need more sprocket teeth and more links in the chain. Go to your service manual and calculate the gear ratio. Then plan on bumping the front sprocket two teeth sizes. For example, if your front sprocket had 15 teeth, move to 17 with 530. Then multiply by the gear ratio to determine how many teeth you need on the rear sprocket.
 
I read through some topics about this on here, but I was still confused so thanks for clearing it up. So overall if I decide on upgrading the chain I would also need to replace both front and rear sprocket so that might be more than I'm willing to spend right now.

So my other question would be since it looks like I might stick with just cleaning my existing chain, how long do you guys soak your chain in kerosene? Do you rinse after with water, then apply the lube?
 
Make the jump and replace the chain. Piece of mind. I just got bit on my car- changed everything but the throttle cable- broke yesterday lucky in the driveway.
I don't use solvent to clean- I use Hoppes #9 then wipe down and prefer the Dupont Chain lube sold at Lowes- dry lube keeps the chain cleaner.
 
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Kerosene is fine for cleaning the chain. The rollers are sealed by O-rings so all you have to do is clean off the grunge on the outside. Soak the minimum time needed to loosen the crud, and scrub with a plastic bristle brush to clean. Hang to dry. Do not lube until the chain is fully dry.

BTW, it's foolhardy to run the chain if it's elongated beyond the service limit. Please don't be one of those people that just haphazardly runs parts until they fail. Broken chains often wad up inside the clutch cover and break the engine cases in the process. Such catastrophes can dump you on your head as well. Please don't be stupid and get yourself killed due to lack of bike maintenance. Sell the stupid bike and take a bus if you can't maintain it properly.
 
Ok, I need some help here since I'm new to all this and if I do go the route of replacing everything I want to make sure I got everything right. Here's what I currently have:

Chain links: 48
F. Sprocket: 14
R. Sprocket: 41

So as the previous person said I would add 2 to the sprockets so would I use Rear as 43, Front as 16 and would I increase the chain links by 2 as well?

Per the manual it states the following for gear ratio, but to be honest I have no idea what it means:
Gear ratio:
Low: 2.571 (36/14)
2nd: 1.888 (32/18)
3rd: 1.380 (29/21)
4th: 1.125 (27/24)
Top: 0.961 (25/26)

My current chain per the spec sheet says 630-96 so if I'm going to a 530, what is the other number based on? Sorry guys I'm trying to learn here.
 
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Final drive ratio on your bike currently is 48/14 = 3.42 This is NOT the stock gear ratio though. Stock sprockets for the 1980 GS750E is 15/41 = 2.73 (from the factory Suzuki service manual).

For 530 we add two teeth to the front sprocket so that means 15 + 2 = 17

17 x 2.73 = 46.4 (46 teeth) - Rear sprocket size needed to keep the stock gear ratio.

I'm not sure how many links for the chain. The stock 630 chain had 96 links. For 530 you will need something in the range of 110 but not sure.
 
I'm sorry, I think I looked at the wrong specs in the service manual. I pulled up the 16v spec manual from basecliff's site and I have the 16 valve GSEX version (square headlight) and the specs listed for that model is:
Gear ratio:
Final reduction: 2.733 (41/15)
Low: 2.571 (36/14)
2nd: 1.777 (32/18)
3rd: 1.380 (29/21)
4th: 1.125 (27/24)
Top: 0.961 (25/26)

Does that change anything? Did the PO already upgrade the chain and sprocket you think from stock?
 
It's possible a PO already upgraded the chain.

How many teeth are on the front and rear sprockets? Or, just scare up a ruler and measure the pin-to-pin distance on a link.


If it ends up you do need a chain, simply call up Z1 Enterprises and let them do the math on the 530 conversion. The gear ratios in the transmission don't make any difference to what you're trying to do here other than adding confusion.


As far as cleaning the chain, Wally World sells a chain cleaner spray in a red can that works awfully well. It's unlikely you need to remove the chain.

If you have the chain off already, kerosene works well, but it's messy and smelly. Don't soak it any longer than needed to remove the greasy buildup. WD-40 works well as a parts cleaner, and it's far less smelly and flammable. Scrub with a soft toothbrush -- you don't want to damage the o-rings.

If it really is an original chain, it's quite likely that some of the o-rings have dried out and failed over 33 years. If just one o-ring is bad, you'll need to replace the chain.





Also, howdy up there in Fishers! I live on the NW side of Indy. Let me know if you need a hand! I've got the chain tools and whatnot. :D

There are lots of other GS-ers around here, too.
 
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The guy at Z1 said that the front sprocket looks like its been changed. He recommended that if I'm going to be doing a lot of in town driving that the setup I have now is ideal for bottom-end driving.
If I want to go to the 530 with a similar ratio as to what I have no he recommended the following:
--114 link chain (530)
--47 Rear sprocket
--16 front sprocket

I know the 530 sprockets have more teeth, but the current chain I have now has 96 links and the new has 114. That seems like a big difference?
 
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claygs750e said:
The guy at Z1 said that the front sprocket looks like its been changed. He recommended that if I'm going to be doing a lot of in town driving that the setup I have now is ideal for bottom-end driving.
If I want to go to the 530 with a similar ratio as to what I have no he recommended the following:
--114 link chain (530)
--47 Rear sprocket
--16 front sprocket

I know the 530 sprockets have more teeth, but the current chain I have now has 96 links and the new has 114. That seems like a big difference?
Click to expand...

The 630 is a big chain longer links, hence shorter length (?), go with the 530 set up and I pretty much kept the same gear ratio. I did the conversion on my 80 GS750E. Sure seems to run smoother since I did. Got my set up from Z1, good folks they is.
 
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I should probably start a new thread, but any good vendors for rear shocks?
 
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