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Time to pull out the multimeter?

  • Thread starter Thread starter spwalker09
  • Start date Start date
S

spwalker09

Guest
I bought my bike a couple months ago with a blown out tail (running) light. Bike mostly sat while I made some important repairs to get it road-worthy.

Finally got it running, replaced the tail light (and it worked) took it to work today. When I came home, I noticed it had already blown out again. This time, instead of vaporizing the filament (like the bulb I originally took out), there's only a small break in the filament, you can barely see it.

My question is, time to break out the multimeter to check the R/R and stator, or am I being paranoid and just got a bad bulb?

Battery seems pretty healthy (will start the bike after sitting for weeks) and there are no other electrical glitches to speak of.

Thanks!
 
It takes 2 min. max to put the multi meter across the battery and rev the engine. What is your question again?
 
I will respectfully disagree.
shrug2.gif

No, it is not time to pull out the meter, it's LONG PAST time to do so.
well1.gif


That should have been one of the first things you did once the engine was running :o

But then, there were other things you should have done to get the engine running, did you do all of them, too. :-k

.
 
Call me young and stupid...

I didn't have any reason to suspect it at the time, because the bike otherwise ran fine. A little cold blooded (fixed w/ valve adjust), needed an oil change and replaced the 8-year-old tires. It somehow skipped me that a 41k mile bike would have RR/stator issues...

Ed - my question was am I just being paranoid ;) a tail light bulb is really the smallest thing to start getting worried about electrical system overhaul, which made me think I may just be paranoid...

Regardless, I will pull out the meter tomorrow. I found the diagram of tests (looks like it takes more than a few minutes tho...)

Thanks!
 
It's just that too many times, a new owner will try to get the bike on the road as quickly as possible, skipping a few VERY important steps along the way.
Skipping those steps will lead to other problems, but the owner's attitude usually sounds like "It somehow skipped me that a 41k mile bike would have RR/stator issues...".
In other words: "I didnt' think ..." :oops:

Hopefully you saved your "Welcome Page" from BassCliff. There is a list of basic things that MUST be done. Click HERE to see it again.

Along with that list, look back at Nessism's signature to see his list of Top 10 Noobie Mistakes.

.
 
Again, I completely agree w/ you. I actually have BassCliff's page saved back from when I bought my first bike (the GS450) almost 2 yrs ago. Interestingly, I was kinda in the exact opposite state of mind when I read the stator papers - kinda gave me the impression that my bike was to blow up at any minute. But when that bike and my next UJM both checked out clean, I thought maybe because the only stories of RR/stator failure I hear are surfaced amidst mechanical breakdowns - again my limited experience and the strength of the interwebs are at play here.

Following the paradigm of "young and stupid" I was a little impatient to get the bike back on the road at this time of year (although, truth be told, it has taken 2 months to get the tires/chain/sprocket replaced so I wasn't exactly in a hurry) and accidentally glossed over the charging system. Got excited at the prospect of riding to work again I guess. I understand this bike is gonna take a lot of work to get into decent condition, that's why we have New England winters

Glad I got the answer to my question - no I'm not being paranoid. But for your enjoyment, next week I'll post up about how I've sprayed the carbs with carb cleaner 5 times and the bike still won't start or idle :P
 
Again, I completely agree w/ you. I actually have BassCliff's page saved back from when I bought my first bike (the GS450) almost 2 yrs ago. Interestingly, I was kinda in the exact opposite state of mind when I read the stator papers - kinda gave me the impression that my bike was to blow up at any minute. But when that bike and my next UJM both checked out clean, I thought maybe because the only stories of RR/stator failure I hear are surfaced amidst mechanical breakdowns - again my limited experience and the strength of the interwebs are at play here.

Following the paradigm of "young and stupid" I was a little impatient to get the bike back on the road at this time of year (although, truth be told, it has taken 2 months to get the tires/chain/sprocket replaced so I wasn't exactly in a hurry) and accidentally glossed over the charging system. Got excited at the prospect of riding to work again I guess. I understand this bike is gonna take a lot of work to get into decent condition, that's why we have New England winters

Glad I got the answer to my question - no I'm not being paranoid. But for your enjoyment, next week I'll post up about how I've sprayed the carbs with carb cleaner 5 times and the bike still won't start or idle :P

Please check the link in my signature about Newbie mistakes. No disrespect, but you are making more than one. And yes, I'm here to help!:D
 
No disrespect, but you are making more than one. And yes, I'm here to help!:D

No problem, I know I'm making more than one. That last one about the carbs was a joke...add internet sarcasm to the list of things I gotta work on lol
 
they re right, check the electrics. But i dont think ur bulb going out is a symptom of elec issues, unless you keep blowing out the same light. Your fuses should catch any surges. Bulbs just burn out eventually.
 
they re right, check the electrics. But i dont think ur bulb going out is a symptom of elec issues, unless you keep blowing out the same light. Your fuses should catch any surges. Bulbs just burn out eventually.
Unless the fuse that his lighting system goes through is too high of amperage rating. Can't remember what fuse should be in there (maybe 10 amps), but if somebody replace it with a 35 amp fuse, the bulb could blow out before the fuse if there is a surge.
 
Your fuses should catch any surges. Bulbs just burn out eventually.
A fuse will NOT stop a voltage surge, they are amperage-dependent devices.

Also, the fuse is NOT there to protect the bulb or whatever else is 'downstream'. It is there to protect the wiring harness when something 'downstream' shorts out.

.
 
Hi,

But for your enjoyment, next week I'll post up about how I've sprayed the carbs with carb cleaner 5 times and the bike still won't start or idle :P

Now, that was funny right there.
crackup.gif


I appreciate your good humor. I'm sure you'll get your bike in tip-top shape with your excellent attitude. Sometimes we're a difficult bunch to put up with. :p


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thanks BassCliff...your page (GS or not) has saved my behind numerous times.

Just got through with testing. I got the good news I was hoping for - it's not the stator. It IS the reg/rec, like I thought it would be. I did some homework and looks like it makes the most sense to upgrade to a MOSFET R/R? I'm a MechE so I can't be bothered with electrical nonsense :P

I've got my eyes on a FH012BA R/R from a late-model Kawi, would that work?

Thanks for all your help,

Steve
 
Bought a MOSFET R/R conversion kit from Motoelectrix on eBay, came with all the connectors, etc. Wired it up, passed the Stator Paper tests, and she's ready for the road again :dancing: Stator is not-original (I have 3 black wires coming from the stator, not the factory colors) and the resistances all match each other (1.0 ohm).

Guess I'm riding to work in the morning :D
 
Hi,

Jolly good show! Keeping a classic on the road. :)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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