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Tiny bubbles in clearcoat

  • Thread starter Thread starter abefroman
  • Start date Start date
A

abefroman

Guest
I just painted my tank and applied 3 coats of the Spraymax 2k clear. After letting the clear dry overnight, I noticed there are a few tiny bubbles (bumps) in the clearcoat. Is there any way to fix this without starting over?

 
Sand with 1500 or 2000 grit then polish?
 
Yeah, what Ed said. Maybe start with something a bit more aggressive like 800 grit to get the orange peel down and then go to the 1500 then 2000, then polish.
 
Larry....I was wondering if a RO palm sander with the right discs can be used? I think hand rubbing all that would lead to some serious fatigue???
 
chuck hahn said:
Larry....I was wondering if a RO palm sander with the right discs can be used? I think hand rubbing all that would lead to some serious fatigue???
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The paint will flatten very easily, and quickly, even if using 1500 by hand. Hard part is not cutting through to the base coat. Sand wet, but dry the surface regularly to monitor progress. Stop as soon as you flatten the lumps so as to not cut though. Stay off all corners or you will cut through for sure.
 
Thanks everyone. I'll give the wetsanding a shot. I'm more concerned with the raised bumps (dust?) more than the orange peel.
 
abefroman said:
Thanks everyone. I'll give the wetsanding a shot. I'm more concerned with the raised bumps (dust?) more than the orange peel.
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With all due respect to Ed, that's why you need to start with something a bit more coarse then 1500. You want it to cut quickly and cleanly..both, dirt nibs and orange peel. 1500 will only "soften" orange peel and most dirt. 800 with a block will cut it out with a few quick passes w/o sanding repeatedly like you will have to with 1500, or especially 2000. Follow the 800 with 1000, 1500, then finish with 2000. These fine grit papers are specifically designed to remove the previous sandpapers scratches..not imperfections. If you have 3 good coats of clear you should be fine, but don't go hog wild on the sanding. And as Ed also mentioned, watch the edges, stay away from them with the sandpaper. Use soft rubber sanding blocks to keep from leaving finger grooves and use lots of water.

Chuck, yes there are specific sanding disks for palm sanders that you can use, but they're expensive..and they can take off a lot of material before you can say..wtf.. Better to start with hand sanding and polishing with a buffer. Even buffer pad attachments for drills are available and work really well for motorcyle parts. Get the 3-stage buffer pads. Wool, yellow foam, and then black foam. It's all has to be done in a specific order to achieve the correct final finish. You can't skip a step and wonder why it's not shining up correctly. Go to auto paint stores, ask questions, they should be able to set you up.
 
Last edited:
nvr2old said:
With all due respect to Ed, that's why you need to start with something a bit more coarse then 1500. You want it to cut quickly and cleanly..both, dirt nibs and orange peel. 1500 will only "soften" orange peel and most dirt. 800 with a block will cut it out with a few quick passes w/o sanding repeatedly like you will have to with 1500, or especially 2000. Follow the 800 with 1000, 1500, then finish with 2000. These fine grit papers are specifically designed to remove the previous sandpapers scratches..not imperfections. If you have 3 good coats of clear you should be fine, but don't go hog wild on the sanding. And as Ed also mentioned, watch the edges, stay away from them with the sandpaper. Use soft rubber sanding blocks to keep from leaving finger grooves and use lots of water.

Chuck, yes there are specific sanding disks for palm sanders that you can use, but they're expensive..and they can take off a lot of material before you can say..wtf.. Better to start with hand sanding and polishing with a buffer. Even buffer pad attachments for drills are available and work really well for motorcyle parts. Get the 3-stage buffer pads. Wool, yellow foam, and then black foam. It's all has to be done in a specific order to achieve the correct final finish. You can't skip a step and wonder why it's not shining up correctly. Go to auto paint stores, ask questions, they should be able to set you up.
Click to expand...

Certainly expert advice for sure. All that I would mention is that when doing the first cut of 800 grit wet block sanding, watch carefully as you sand and you will notice the high spots coming off first and leaving a dull finish. The low spots will remain shiny and bead water. Once it is all dull proceed to the next finer grit.
It doesn't take much at all and if you are getting tired you are doing something wrong with the 800 grit. :o
 
Have the same problem, wet sanded them out with 1500 grit. Though still having a problem with the clear coat. I'm getting spider like webbing now and then. Don't know, could be the clear to activator ratio. 8ozs clear and 1/4 ounce of activator. I ain't happy happy happy.
 
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