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Trouble shooting

  • Thread starter Thread starter Paul
  • Start date Start date
P

Paul

Guest
Having just got my GS1100GZ roadworthy, I'm finding issues with cylinder 3 and 4 running hot, (more so number 3) and the revs tend to take too long returning to Idle when I pump the throttle, I haven't had the valve cover off so far, as the PO said he had done the shims, but as I go, I notice a few things that make me wonder if the PO ever had this properly running on the road at all. So I'm thinking I should check this anyway, there has been some misfiring as it blew off the rubber caps the carb sync adaptors on 3 and 4 I didn't notice this immediately :|. I have set all the carbs to 1.5 turns, and sprayed contact cleaner on the intakes and there's doesn't seem to be any leaks, once its warm then it starts to knock from that area

I'm guessing your going to say check the clearances first, but I thought I'd post just in case I am going in the wrong direction??
 
check the valve clearances. NEVER believe what a PO tells you, its usually BS just to sway you to buy the bike
 
it may well turn into one, i think Paul may shoot his bike if it gives him any more trouble haha
 
After you adjust the valves and clean the carbs properly, you will need to do a carb sync. When you are done with the sync, get rid of those rubber-capped adapters and put the proper plugs back in the intake tubes. As you have already noticed, the rubber caps get blown off, which leads to a rather severe air leak. That air leak will result in a very lean mixture, possibly damaging the engine. I tried those adapters, too, got rid of them within a week. Could not find rubber caps that fit tightly enough to not get blown off with the occasional pop.

.
 
yeh, I wont be leaving them on after seeing how easy they pop off.... valve cover is off now but I ran out of light, I'll continue in the morning. The carbs have just been cleaned with new orings (they are actually off my 1100GLZ, and though I checked all the diaphragms, if its still running hot after the valves have been ruled out, I'll swap them around to see if the problem moves away from #3 and #4 just in case they aren't lifting, then next get the original carbs sorted out, they need a few parts but nothing major

will keep you posted
Cheers
 
leave the adaptors on, then connect 1 & 4 and 2 & 3 together. the pipes wont pop off then and it will smooth out your idle.
 
Agemax said:
leave the adaptors on, then connect 1 & 4 and 2 & 3 together. the pipes wont pop off then and it will smooth out your idle.
Click to expand...
really, I'll try that once I have some suitable clips.... please explain the theory behind that?
 
it balances the pulses in the inlet tracts at idle. it was posted up on here a couple of years ago and quite a few members tried it and said it really did help smooth the idle
 
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