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Trying to get the 83 1100e to run better

  • Thread starter Thread starter groundnpound
  • Start date Start date
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groundnpound

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I'm trying to tune the carbs to try to remove slight hesitation spot from 2 to 3 k rpm. and to it will pull harder, It runs good but could be better...

-stock airbox intact with k&n filter installed
-small dia. 4 into one system, the name is "pro sport" embossed on the small can
-stock size pilots and main jets (112.5), nothing modified in carbs
-air screws are at 2.5 out
-slides looked perfect when carbs were apart
-carbs recently completely cleaned, idles seems slightly rough(the pilot jets are 100% clean)
-choke works perfectly
-plugs are pretty white
-the bike does'nt pull like it should, but is smooth from 3 to 9k rpm

Do I need bigger pilot and main jets, where do you guys think I should be or should I look elsewhere?
THANK YOU, CHRIS
 
Put a 117.5 main jet in. Take off the air box lid. Replace the spacer on the jet needle with three washers that look identical to the one under the clip in the notch. Should be able top find them at Radio Shack.
Are your valves in spec and are you sure the carbs are clean? Did you seperate them and dip them with new o-rings?

With these mods you should lose the stumble and quicken the powerband.
 
What do you think about the pilot jets? Do you think it's lean even at idle and help it idle smoother ?

I havn't taken the valve cover off to check/set the valve clearance yet but there is'nt any more noise than expected. and is revs up to 9 or 10 k rpm very fast and smooth under no load(parked), after the 3 k stumble of course., but I still will do that...

Where exactly to Is the jet needle spacer? it it where the diaphram/cup thing/needle attach?, is it on the top side of the diaphram?

Thanks, Chris.
 
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If your stock pilot jet is 45 run a 47.5.
The needle jet is inside the slide. You take it out with some long needle nose pliers or circlip pliers. There is a plastic spacer on top of the needle.
 
Just so you know, that pipe was made by Vance & Hines as a DIRECT stock replacement with NO re-jetting required. What Bill just told you would be a good start for just about any other aftermarket pipe but NOT that one! If you do ANYTHING, just pull the plugs covering the mixture screws & adjust the mixture screws to where the bike tells you it wants them. Ray.
 
On CV carbs they are fuel and air screws. You are adjusting a pre-mixed air-fuel mix.
I call them idle mixture screws.
 
my screws are all ready out 2.5 turns, can I go out further out to try to richen up idle to 3k rpm? I think it will still be too lean throughout the rpm range, so moybe I'll try the screws first.
 
almost there

almost there

I just installed 115 main jets and bigger pilot jets that come with the k & l carb kits I bought for when I cleaned them the first time . The pilots don't have a # stamped on them but they have a bigger oriface than the 45's I took out, now idle is perfect and throttle snaps up super super fast from idle to 9k rpm, the hesitation is gone, thanks Bill (chef1366???)

took a test 4 mile lap(ride) and it is much more responsive(no hesitation or flat spot, and idles nice),
and pulls much better, but I know there is more there @ 1/2 to full throttle because I don't have to hold on real tight yet, as you said I should try the 117.5's or 120's if I take off the air box lid. I'm going to look at the plugs before I do.


Thanks guys, Chris
 
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Find a local Cycle Gear, Suzuki stealership or ma and pa place that sells mikuni jets. They might even let you trade if your too lean or rich.
Removing the airbox is an old trick. With the K&N in the box this will give you more air. Give it more fuel and have fun.
I did all this and still can't get enough out of this GS. With these bikes the skys the limit.
First pipes, then pods, jet kit, cams, big bore, new head............
My wife hates this bike.
 
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