Turn Signal Relay Replacement

[Lyra]

My Right turn signal is working appropriately.

My left just stays on when I press the button and only the front light is illuminated. Very occasionally I will flick the switch and it will work properly (both front and back blinking) so I know the bulb is ok.
I have been reading the relay replacement guide. Do I need to do this if only one side is not working? Is it more likely to be a loose wire somewhere? How do I work out where?

Thanks

 

[JTGS850GL]

Here is a link to the GS850 Factory Service Manual. Inside is a wiring diagram that will help trace down what's happening:

GS850 Manual

There are several bullet connectors along the path along with a flasher relay and the flasher control module. The wires are all color coded to match the manual.

Here's a good web site to assist you in all the other maintenance you're going to be facing:

BikeCliff's web site

Just take you time and inspect every connection. Besides the wires, don't assume that the bulbs are not the issue. Many times corrosion can cause intermittent signal issues. Take out each bulb and inspect/clean them. Just to let you know in advance, the turn signal controllers are a known failure point.

 

[Guest]

I agree that you want to check all your connections and bulbs for faults before anything else, but if you find that isn't the issue it is very simple to replace the flasher with a cheap automotive electronic one from a local auto parts store.


Mark

 

[Lyra]

The bulb is fine.

The faulty connection seems to be very near to the bulb. The housing of the bulb (at the end of the stork - sorry, I am not sure of the technical names for these things) is a bit wobbly. It isn't coming off, but it can move about. When I wiggle it, the indicator starts working! But only temporarily. I tried to tape the bulb housing into the position where it works, but it didn't quite hold properly. I took the colour plastic off and had a look but there seems no way to tighten that joint. Would glue do it, or do I need a new set of indicators?

(P.S. I believe these are the stock indicators in-situ)

 

[JTGS850GL]

The light stalks are rubber mounted and are supposed to move a bit to prevent vibration from damaging the bulb. Sounds like you have a possible short in that light stalk. I'd remove it and see if you can see any abrasion on the hot wire. There's only one nut that connects the light to the frame.

 

[Steve]

... it is very simple to replace the flasher with a cheap automotive electronic one from a local auto parts store.

Yes, it IS simple to use a flasher from the auto parts store, but it will not retain the auto-cancel feature that is part of her 850. And, it won't work without modification to the wiring harness, as they all require a ground connection, which the 850 flasher socket does not provide.

Lyra, If you have verified that the bulb is, indeed, good, check the tension that is holding it in the socket. It is possible that the sides of the 'barrel' that holds the bulb have been flared out, allowing the bulb to wiggle around, not providing a good earth. Also check the cleanliness of the inside of the barrel and the contact in the center that would contact the tip of the bulb.

Note also that the entire socket ("barrel") is held to the housing with a screw. If that screw is loose, your earth connection will be compromised. At the other end of the stalk (not 'stork'), there is a large ring terminal held by the nut that holds it all to the end of the frame. Make sure it has good connection and the wire is not broken.

Probably the last thing that needs to be verified is the power wire that runs through the stalk to the socket. It might be frayed just as it emerges from the stalk. A frayed wire will usually short things out and blow fuses, but it might also be cut there, and only contacting occaionally.


The need for a new set of indicators is not out of the question, but if you do get some, make sure they have incandescent bulbs, not LEDs, unless you want to open a whole 'nother can of worms.

.

 

[Lyra]

Thank you all for your help.
The light is fading here (and I don't have a garage) so I will try dissecting the indicator further tomorrow. I will post updates on my progress

Thanks again

 

[roeme]

Hah, I got the same exact problem on Red; rear-left has only an intermittent connection.

Goes usually away with some rough riding, so lazy me just revs up the engine until I get around to dig in.

Watching this thread for possible faults.

 

[Brendan W]

Lrya. The relay can't tell which side it's flashing so if the right is Ok it's not the relay. As Steve said the ground ring terminals are something to check out and the power feed through the stalk.
The switch itself could also be causing the problem if the contact is dirty. If cleaning the grounds, bulb holders and connections has no effect then you could try opening the switch and blasting the contacts with some contact cleaner spray. The plug for that switch is near the coils and could also do with a clean and a check that the harness hasn't dropped off the frame and something touching hot bits at the top of the motor. Usually it's a blue coloured plug.
The relay for the bikes with the turn signal control unit have three prongs and a three wire plug. Check that yours is in fact three wire as by this time many bikes have gone over to two prong although the three wire plug may still be connected.
roeme. Sounds like you are having high resistance issues as well. Revving the bike gets the voltage higher and may be enough to get things working.

 

[geol]

If the stalk is wiggled and the rear turn signal works, the ground is bad or the connection to the bulb. The relay is probably fine as is the bulb if it works sometimes and the problem can be mitigated by wiggling the stalk. Unscrew the stalk from the rear with an open end wrench... can't recall but I think it is a 13mm. Unplug the wires going to the turn signal by taking off your seat. There are two bullet connectors under the seat that lead to the offending turn signal. Then, after the nut is removed pull the wires through where the turn signal went through. Pay attention to how the rubber bits/washers go when they are removed and remove the turn signal and you will find a fake chrome plastic sleeve over the hollow shaft where the wire connects to the bulb holder in the turn signal shell. Most like point of failure is the ground which (if memory serves) has a round loop connector that goes over the turn signal stem behind where the stem penetrates. Look at it carefully to ensure a good ground. If that fails to fix the problem, trace the hot wire up into the turn signal shell and make sure it is connected solidly.