Valve Adjustment - What tools needed?

[Krunk_Kracker]

I've already called my local Suzy dealer and they have a master shim kit that they part from, so I'm all good on the shims (even though they are $7 a piece!!)

What tools are needed?

Of course I checked Basscliff's site and will be using his guide here , I just wanted some clarity on what specialty tools specifically.

 

[ChicagoBob]

For me, getting the valve cover (and breather cover) off and scraping off the old gasket material were the hardest parts of the job, what with stuck screws, and the delicacy of the aluminum casting, etc., so I'd recommend having good tools to deal with that, so you are not tempted to use something that might booger the valve cover. Last time I did my valves, I broke off two valve cover bolts, and was able to salvage only one (I left it off, and haven't had a leak). I used an aftermarket allen bolt set to replace the stock valve cover screws.

I also found the zip-tie method of holding the valves open to be far superior to the standard tool. Very easy and quick. Shims are easily removed with tweezers and/or a pick or small screwdriver. Engine is easily turned with a ratchet on the right side crank bolt.

 

[cowboyup3371]

I already said this in your other thread but figured I'd repost here.

Do a search on here for valve adjustments as this question has been asked a lot. I got the valve adjustment tool from Z1 for not a lot of money as well as a set of metric feeler gauges. Past that you'll need a new valve cover gasket and a set of regular old tweezers.

Make sure you ALWAY have a shim in each cylinder when checking them - NEVER rotate the engine without one. You can also do a search for the Shim club on here and get them for a lot less money.

 

[Krunk_Kracker]

I already said this in your other thread but figured I'd repost here.

Do a search on here for valve adjustments as this question has been asked a lot. I got the valve adjustment tool from Z1 for not a lot of money as well as a set of metric feeler gauges. Past that you'll need a new valve cover gasket and a set of regular old tweezers.

Make sure you ALWAY have a shim in each cylinder when checking them - NEVER rotate the engine without one. You can also do a search for the Shim club on here and get them for a lot less money.

Yes, thank you x2

 

[cowboyup3371]

Yes, the zip tie method is cheaper and for some easier but honestly, once you get the hang of that tool (need to use a screwdriver to help hold it in place on outside cylinders) is just as easy.

 

[Steve]

Actually, $7 per shim is not that bad. The best price we have available (for purchase) is $5.28 from Z1. Most shops have to order shims in, and will charge $12-15 for the shim. As cowboyup mentioned, do a search for the Shim Club (search for user ghostgs1), they can probably help you, too. I have no idea how the "club" runs, I only know that it exists.

You do not need a whole kit, so just check your clearances, record them in that spreadsheet that some guy offers , then inventory the shim sizes and record those values in that spreadsheet, too.

While you are waiting for you shims, have you cleaned your carbs and replaced the o-rings? It's a great way to spend the time.

You asked "what tools". Some are able to use that special tool successfully, others are not. I am in the camp that can NOT. I use the zip-tie method to hold the valves open, the procedure is outlined on one of the pages on BassCliff's site.

.

 

[Krunk_Kracker]

Actually, $7 per shim is not that bad. The best price we have available (for purchase) is $5.28 from Z1. Most shops have to order shims in, and will charge $12-15 for the shim. As cowboyup mentioned, do a search for the Shim Club (search for user ghostgs1), they can probably help you, too. I have no idea how the "club" runs, I only know that it exists.

You do not need a whole kit, so just check your clearances, record them in that spreadsheet that some guy offers , then inventory the shim sizes and record those values in that spreadsheet, too.

While you are waiting for you shims, have you cleaned your carbs and replaced the o-rings? It's a great way to spend the time.

You asked "what tools". Some are able to use that special tool successfully, others are not. I am in the camp that can NOT. I use the zip-tie method to hold the valves open, the procedure is outlined on one of the pages on BassCliff's site.

.

Funny, I was in the process of hunting you down to send you an e-mail, haha. Aside from adjusting the valves, I have done pretty much all maintenance. carbs dipped and o-ring'ed, oil changed, final drive gear oil changed, spark plugs changed, etc etc etc.

E-mail inbound!

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Originally Posted by Krunk_Kracker
I'm going to have to start a new thread about adjusting the valves, I get how to do it, but I need to know what all to buy, tool wise.

The only task-specific tool you need is the tappet tool. A pair of heavy tweezers or hemostats can come in handy for grabbing the shims. Don't forget a new valve cover gasket. Otherwise you just need regular tools to remove the valve cover and a good feeler gauge to measure the clearances. Most of your questions should be answered in this PDF file:

Valve Adjustments (8 Valve)

If you don't want to buy the $15 tappet tool you can use the "zip tie" method.

Zip Tie Supplement (by Mr. Matchless)

I prefer using the tappet tool but many like sticking zip ties in their cylinders to hold the valves open.

Z1 has the best prices on shims at just over $5 each, the last time I checked.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[1_v8_merc]

-Tweezers
-Valve Gasket($18-30?)
-Breather Gasket($5-12?)
-High Quality Zip Tie OR Bucket Tool
-Half-Moons($8 i think?)

----------

DONT forget the Half-Moons!

They are the rubber pieces that sit on the endcaps of your Cams.
They are shaped.....like a Half Moon, haha.
They are prone to leaking....so you might as well replace them while the valve cover is off!


Also, when swapping your shims out, MAKE SURE they are pressed down all the way into the bucket BEFORE continuing to turn the engine/cam....
The reason I say this, is because I actually had a shim pop OUT of the bucket while I was turning the motor-by-hand!
Well....the shim flew out and got lodged between the Cam-lobe, and the side of the valve wall........I thought I was totally ****ed.....

Luckily, I managed to get the shim out....somehow.
But the shim chipped the aluminum wall pretty good!

So when you Press the shim into the bucket, HOLD IT for a couple seconds, and wait, just to ensure there's no oil or air bubbles trapped underneath.....because I've had the shims FLOAT on a layer of oil,etc.
(and thats how they fly out when the cam touches it.)


But other than that....valve adjustment is EASY.

 

[Starboard M]

This is all really good information. Im going to try and attempt adjusting mine this weekend, and Im rather nervous about it.

Whats the best place to get the half moons? Ordered my Real Gaskets today, but completely forgot about the half moons. Also wonder if my local Sears will have metric feelers?

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Whats the best place to get the half moons?

Z1 is one of the best places, period. You can also order them from any online Suzuki OEM dealer. There's a pretty long list of our favorite vendors in your "mega-welcome".

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2086



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Nessism]

I use a bucket depression tool to get the shims out. The idea of holding the valve open with a piece of plastic seems barbaric compared to using the Suzuki specified tool.

I've never replaced a half moon. I smear a little Threebond 1194 on the curved portion of the seal and have never had a leak.

I've used a Real Gasket before and while it was okay, I prefer the Suzuki OE gaskets because it isn't so sensitive to squirming out of place and cracking.

Purchasing a shim kit is expensive and most of the shims will never be used. I believe it's more useful to find out what shim range you have in the engine, and then purchase enough spares in and around the current range so you will have what you need. For example, if the current range is 2.55 to 2.65, make sure you have extra spare 2.60, 2.55, 2.50 and 2.45 shims and you will have all you need for many checks going forward.

 

[frijoles-and-beans]

You probably already know this, but when you get the half-moons installed don't put any of that gasket-making liquid on the straight edge of them. Only the curved edges, huh Steve? Easier to take off the valve cover for valve adjustment intervals. I did it myself last time I replaced the moons. Steve reminded me to kick myself in the a**.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and as far as that shim tool is concerned. I got it for $15 at the local Suzuki shop and it is so easy to work with. I used a pair of tweezers to pull out the shims in conjunction with it and it worked marvelously.

 

[Steve]

Whats the best place to get the half moons? Ordered my Real Gaskets today, but completely forgot about the half moons. Also wonder if my local Sears will have metric feelers?

Any of the vendors on BassCliff's Welcome page will carry the half-moons, but Z1 actually carries them in stock, so can be quicker.

Since you say you are installing a Real Gasket, here is a tip: install the new half-moons and put the cover on without a gasket. Snug all the bolts down to press all the half-moons into place. Leave it overnight. Then you can take the cover off and install the Real Gasket. If you don't do that, there will be a little gap at the edge of the half-moon that might leak a bit.

No idea if Sears carries metric feelers, but you need to make sure that whatever set you get goes thin enough. Metric feelers need to go down to 0.03 mm, Imperial (inch) feelers need to go down to 0.0015".

If you can't find a metric set, don't worry too much.
Read the end of my sig, get "the 'sheet", it handles inch or metric values just fine.

.

 

[mike_of_bbg]

If you put the half-moons in "backwards" (lip inside) it will prevent them from popping out and may help with noise from cam float. Good tip from Steve about setting them in.

Does the 650 motor have the tach drive in the valve cover instead of the head? Some have complained that the real gaskets are a bit thick and might prevent the tach worm from engaging fully. Just something to be aware of.

 

[Steve]

If you put the half-moons in "backwards" (lip inside) it will prevent them from popping out and may help with noise from cam float. Good tip from Steve about setting them in.

Does the 650 motor have the tach drive in the valve cover instead of the head? Some have complained that the real gaskets are a bit thick and might prevent the tach worm from engaging fully. Just something to be aware of.

New moons should not 'need' to be turned inside out, as they will grip the head just fine. Also, while they won't "pop out", remember there is nothing that will make them do such a thing. The area over the head is vented, so will never build up any kind of pressure, let alone enough to make the moons pop out.

Good point on the tach drive, Mike. I just looked, the 650 does have the tach drive in the cover. With the extra thickness of the gasket, the tach gears might not have enough of a mesh to operate correctly.

.