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what type of oil to use? synth VS dino

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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its been 22 years since somebody stamped the frame on my bike saying built in December/81 and it only has 3700 km on it so its not even broke in yet *L* I intend to rectify that this summer :)

anyway the question is synthetic vs dino, what should I use? tips, suggestions, scientific data(translated enough to understand), any info would be good
 
I don't know the circumstances of you getting the bike, but just from what you have written I think I would use dino up to at least 10,000 km. And I would change the oil at short intervals checking for contaminants and metal. I would probably make the first change at 1000 and adjust from there depending upon the condition of that oil.
 
Oils

Oils

I am not a chemical engineer only mechanical but in a motor cycle I prefer synthetic due to the high heat involved. Make sure your oil is the correct viscosity since synthetics can be much thinner and cause leaking and burning. They do have better dirt carrying abilities and resistancce to thermal breakdown. :idea:
 
wait, what happened to that talk about not being able to use synthetic oils due to the slipping clutches?
 
i'm only a mechanical engineer as well, but i wrote a 30 page report on synthetic oil and dino oil. from what i found synthetic oil performs better hands down. it runs cooler, it lubricates better, it cleans better, it flows better hot and cold, etc.

the thing you have to weigh is if it's worth paying $4 a quart instead of $1.50. in a motorcycle though, the oil is stressed a lot more then a car.

i plan to have oil analysis done on my motorcycle oil after i start riding it regularly this spring. i switched my car over to synthetic as well...and it's been doing good. i will let everyone know the results of my analysis in a few months.

~Adam
 
I am a big fan of synthetic oil, but you should not use it during the break-in period. It lubricates a little too well and your rings may not seat as well as they should. I have read opinions ranging from 5,000 to 10,000 miiles on a a new bike or rebuild before going to synthetic. 3700 km is only half of the lower figure. And if the bike has sit without running for many years it may have accumulated some contaminants that you'll want to "flush" with frequent oil changes. You wouldn't want to use expensive synthetic oil for that function.
 
Definitely do not use synthetic during breakin as it is too slippery. Clutch problems will be more due to existing problems or the oil being rated for energy conservation (ie friction modified etc).

Just remember the highest spec (and price!) bike oil is synthetic.

I have read that it is false economy to try and extend oil changes on air/oil cooled bikes when using synthetic and they do subject he oil to more extremes. Stick to normal oil changes.
 
the price dosn't bother me, im not going to be buying the stuff from the dealer, just buy normal non friction modified synthetic from wal-mart or canadian tire. I do intend to use dino oil all this summer though(unless I actually ride enough to break 10k this year). see how much riding I do anyway. i've been riding dirtbike since I was about 14(im 22 almost 23 now) but no road liscence yet, im taking a course begining of may so I should have my liscence by the middle of may :D
 
This subject reminded me of something. Just the other day I was looking through my friends owners manual for his 2001 Triumph Legend 900 and it recommends synthetic oil from the very start of service. Anyone know why it is such a no no on other bikes during break-in and not on Triumphs?
 
I've been thinking about starting to use synthetic in my bikes but I'm wondering about the whole energy conserving thing. I've heard not to use oils that are labeled enery conserving but I haven't found any synthetics that aren't.
 
Some cars also use syntheic from new (Ferrari, HSVs etc) so as long as it was made for it and recommended must be ok.

I must say I have used the Shell ultra syntheic in the bike, but did not notice any difference in terms of gearbox and clutch performance over a normal oil chnage cycle compared to a good mineral oil. Cheaper mineral oils degrade quickly and need changing more often, I have found the gearbox/clutch playing up when hot being the obvious difference.
 
Jeff Tate said:
This subject reminded me of something. Just the other day I was looking through my friends owners manual for his 2001 Triumph Legend 900 and it recommends synthetic oil from the very start of service. Anyone know why it is such a no no on other bikes during break-in and not on Triumphs?
Click to expand...
I think that all modern Triumphs come new with a special "running-in" oil installed by the factory. Subsequent oil changes use synthetic, as recommended.

BB
 
I've heard not to use oils that are labeled enery conserving but I haven't found any synthetics that aren't.
Click to expand...

Mobil 1 with the red cap (I run the 15W50) does not have the friction modifiers in it. Their 5W30 and 10W40 (I think it's a blue cap) do have them.

I am a big fan of synthetic oil, but you should not use it during the break-in period. It lubricates a little too well and your rings may not seat as well as they should. I have read opinions ranging from 5,000 to 10,000 miiles on a a new bike or rebuild before going to synthetic.
Click to expand...

Your new bike is broken in well before 5000 miles. The rings will be fully seated in only a few hundred miles at most and after that, it can be synthetic all the way. Current superbike engines are often broken in with only a few runs on a dyno, using dino oil and then it is synthetic when they hit the track. And there is nobody more interested in proper ring seating than a race team with competition in mind. :D

Mark
 
Synthetic

Synthetic

I started using synthetic gear oil as well as motor oil and man does it shift smooth! :lol:
 
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