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Which Carburetor rebuild kit do I get?

  • Thread starter Thread starter BriTXbike
  • Start date Start date
Don't bother

Don't bother

The carb rebuild kits are expensive, of poor quality and unnecessary. I think you'll find very little that needs to be replaced. Even the float bowl gaskets can usually be reused if you remove them carefully (I've never replaced one and never had one leak!). :D

It is a good idea to replace the rubber "O"rings. You can usually find them at an auto parts store or, better yet, buy a set from Robert Barr if he has the ones you need. (Do a search and you'll find him) :lol:

The most important things are to make sure the proper jets haven't been replaced by incorrect sized jets....and that you get the carbs completely dissassembled before cleaning. :roll: Lastly, make sure you get them really, really clean! :!:
 
Alright I could live with just cleaning them out really well. I think the Jets are right b/c it ran fine before my electrical woes started. Now if I can right the electrical issue I can retune the bike.

Can I just take them off the bike and saturate them in Carb Cleaner?
 
Good

Good

If it ran well before your electrical problems, that's a very good sign! :!: Even so, you should find out what the correct jet sizes are and check to see what you have when you take them apart. (OEM jets have the sizes marked on them.)

You should use one of the commercial carb dips that are available in auto parts stores. (They have a metal basket inside and they look like a can of house paint.). The ones available in California are no good because of all the "greenies" but I think the ones available in most other states are probably still just fine.

Make CERTAIN that you completely dissassemble them. If you've never done it before, it's pretty easy to overlook something. If that happens, you may end up ruining a rubber component (because of the caustic dip) and end up with a problem that you didn't start with.

Good luck! :!: It's really a fairly easy and satisfying job and you should do just fine. :lol:
 
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/britxbike/detail?.dir=/53ba&.dnm=c582.jpg&.src=ph

So without tearing down the carbs would it help at all just to spray it down really well with Carb Cleaner? I have them off the bike till I get my starter back in so I thought this would help a little before. Reason for not tearing them down is I don't have any gaskets or rebuild kits unless you guys have some odeas how I could go about cleaning them by dismantling certian componets?
 
In general, when you disassemble them, the gaskets (really only fuel bowl) are reuseable. That will give you an opportunity to see the condition of o-rings, etc and if you wish, to soak them. The best bet would be just to pick up a set of o-rings and the rest will likely be fine.
 
Maybe I've read so many posts I'm lost at certain points but can I run down to Homedepot and pick up o-rings to replace certain parts since they are not under pressure or temperature?
 
I doubt if you'd find them there. You might get lucy with a metric o-ring kit from an auto parts store. You won't hurt the o-rings any worse than they already are by disassembling the carbs. Robert Barr, a member here, sells the o-ring kits for a reasonable price and will get them to you quickly.
 
Rings

Rings

Robert Barr's "O" rings are the best. :!: However, if you look at a Kragen auto parts store, they have a very good selection and you can find what you need. It's a hassle because so many are similar, but it can be done.
 
I just did a carb over haul on an 82 GS850L, (See Newbee with a new begining in the stories forum), This machine had sat for 18 years and the carbs were the worst I've ever seen! I use a dip call Master carb and parts cleaner. Comes in a 5 gal bucket, about $50.00 at Checker auto. This stuff is TOXIC and MEAN! Will eat everything except metal! Be sure to remove everything from the carbs body including the EPA plug and the pilot air screw, spring, washer and the TINY o-ring. DO NOT remove the welch plug in the bowl area. 24 hours in the dip, water wash, under pressure if you can, then a really good high pressure air blast out. I then use stoddard solvent to help polish out the body and bowl. The metal caps that cover the butterfly shafts will be black after the dip but a good metal polish brings them right back. I used a kit, brand K&L, part #18-2591. Had new main jet, pilot, and idle air brass. I didn't replace the main needle or the air screw, and all the rubber peices I replaced. The cross over fuel pipes and vent tees I got the o-rings from checker auto. Once I got then all reassembled I did a bench Sync and when this bike runs it does really well. At the moment I think I've got a weird electric issue. It dies after 8-10 miles but its NOT carb related I'm Sure.
 
Darkchyld I've been reading your posts and just wanted to tell ya it's been very informative and interesting since it's my bike your rebuilding. I'm curretly trying to get the thing to start before I start messing with the carbs. I installed a new set of brushes today and no luck so I am going to pull it out tomorrow and check to make sure that the starter is working correctly, should have tested it before I put it in the bike ](*,)
 
Underneath that cap that covers the butterfly shaft there is a rubber seal. If you soak the carbs without removing the seal it will be eaten up and will probably suck air where the seal used to be.



Darkchyld said:
I just did a carb over haul on an 82 GS850L, (See Newbee with a new begining in the stories forum), This machine had sat for 18 years and the carbs were the worst I've ever seen! I use a dip call Master carb and parts cleaner. Comes in a 5 gal bucket, about $50.00 at Checker auto. This stuff is TOXIC and MEAN! Will eat everything except metal! Be sure to remove everything from the carbs body including the EPA plug and the pilot air screw, spring, washer and the TINY o-ring. DO NOT remove the welch plug in the bowl area. 24 hours in the dip, water wash, under pressure if you can, then a really good high pressure air blast out. I then use stoddard solvent to help polish out the body and bowl. I used a kit, brand K&L, part #18-2591. Had new main jet, pilot, and idle air brass. I didn't replace the main needle or the air screw, and all the rubber peices I replaced. The cross over fuel pipes and vent tees I got the o-rings from checker auto. Once I got then all reassembled I did a bench Sync and when this bike runs it does really well. At the moment I think I've got a weird electric issue. It dies after 8-10 miles but its NOT carb related I'm Sure.
Click to expand...
 
BriTXbike, Is it that you just can't crank your bike using the starter button? Heres 2 quick checks. I like to pull the spark plugs out so the motor turns over really easly and find the 2 pin connecter from the pickup coils, green and blue wires, disconnect that and it shuts down any spark. If you've got a meter check for 12 volts at the yellow and green wire on the soilinoid when you hit the starter button, other wise, you'll need a short, 12", piece of heay gage, 10 or 12, wire. Look at the starter soilnoid, there are 4 connections on it. Identify the large leads that come from the battery to the soilnoid, from the soilnoid to the starter motor. Make sure the connections are clean and snug. There will be a black lead that goes to ground. Then a yelow with a green stripe, this is the one from the switches, yes there is more than one. Take that short piece, hold one end on the positive terminal of the battery and just touch the other to the yellow and green on the soilinoid. It should crank. You now know how to "Hot Wire" your GS. :lol:
I've found the safety switch on the clutch handel seems prone to corrode. loosen the pince bolt and turn it upside down. Two small screws and half of it comes off. The sliding peice is a small copper colored "U", watch for the small spring under it. Buff it lightly with some 600 grit sand paper. Key word here, "Lightly". The 4 contatcs on the other half do the same and put it back together and check for the 12 volt again.
Let me know if some pics would be helpful, I'll email then to you.
arveejay, Interesting. On Johns bike there was a snug nylon washer in there, no rubber. Hmmm.. :?
 
ok well I pulled my connections off my terminals so I could hook up the cables directly to the truck and jumping from the battery the starter spins fine but when I hook up the positive battery post to the Solenoid negative it just sparks. So I'm thinking it's the solenoid which I bought a replacement tractor 3 point 12v. Now I'm going to try and rig that up and see if it resolves my issue.
 
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