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Who has two thumbs and needs a new stator?

  • Thread starter Thread starter growler
  • Start date Start date
Well I tested my stator using this part of the stator papers (I had already determined my battery was not charging via the Quick Test) and I got zilch for a reading. Nothing. No Ohm measurement period.

Also one of the bullet connectors that attached to one of the stator wires fell off - it was fried. Toasty fried. So there's that. I need to pick up a crimping tool. Any suggestions for a semi-inexpensive one that I can use?

Step 2 - Further testing of the stator

If the previous test has shown that our beloved stator is suspect, we will measure resistance between all pairs of the stator and between each lead and the stator center (with the engine turned OFF). In all cases we should see a low resistance or continuity between the 3 legs, testing them in pairs. We should not have a resistance reading of infinity ('open') or zero (short). Instead you should see a resistance reading that is within 0.5 to 2.0 Ohms If there is a short or open, somewhere isolation has been damaged (probably melted) and we have a useless stator.
Photo%20Jun%2004%209%2039%2009%20AM_zpsjl6wome1.jpg


Photo%20Jun%2004%209%2039%2017%20AM_zps2wwwadkj.jpg





 
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For your different bolts, I just draw pic of the cover on cardboard and stick the bolts in cardboard in the correct place.
For my sprocket cover I have used the same cardboard several times.
 
I will second (third? fourth?) the idea that the stator should be connected directly to the R/R. That does not mean that they have to be soldered (personally, I prefer a good connector), just that they don't need to take any detours on the way.

One of those detours is the infamous "stator loop" that is under your gas tank. Next time you have the tank off, look in the area just to the right of the right-side coil, you will see a 9-pin connector. If you look at the side of the connector that is toward the back of the bike, you will see a white wire with a red stripe and a white wire with a green stripe. On the other side of that connector, you will see a short wire that simply loops between those two wires. The recommendation is to separate the white/green and white/red connectors (might be your soldered connectors or the ones shown in post #23) and connect that stator wire directly to the R/R, instead of sending it up under the tank.

With your new stator, it will be very easy to accomplish the task. Just locate the three wires that are not red or black on your R/R, connect them directly to the stator wires.

.
 
If I'm understanding you correctly, the three wires pictured in post 23 (yellow, white w/green and white w/blue) would be abandoned because I would be wiring the 3 wires from my stator directly to the R/R?



Steve said:
I will second (third? fourth?) the idea that the stator should be connected directly to the R/R. That does not mean that they have to be soldered (personally, I prefer a good connector), just that they don't need to take any detours on the way.

One of those detours is the infamous "stator loop" that is under your gas tank. Next time you have the tank off, look in the area just to the right of the right-side coil, you will see a 9-pin connector. If you look at the side of the connector that is toward the back of the bike, you will see a white wire with a red stripe and a white wire with a green stripe. On the other side of that connector, you will see a short wire that simply loops between those two wires. The recommendation is to separate the white/green and white/red connectors (might be your soldered connectors or the ones shown in post #23) and connect that stator wire directly to the R/R, instead of sending it up under the tank.

With your new stator, it will be very easy to accomplish the task. Just locate the three wires that are not red or black on your R/R, connect them directly to the stator wires.

.
Click to expand...
 
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