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Wierd Start Button Issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter ekabil
  • Start date Start date
E

ekabil

Guest
Hello, happy Fourth of July!

Soon after I acquired my 13,500 mile GS1100GL, I began to have issues starting her (and charging). After lots of connection repairs, and cleaning, I replaced the stator, RR (which killed the stator when it went).

Still had problems starting. Just slow cranking. Eventually it just would not start, went from slow cranking (barely turning over) to no cranking - no click, no nothing. For a brief period, I could get it to slowly turn over if I mashed the button very hard. Soon thought even this failed to work. Ruled out solenoid, was about to rebuild the starter motor, when for some reason I decided to look at the starter button assembly. I'm not sure why I did, I still don't understand why that would cause slow cranking, but I am glad I did because that was the problem!

Once I took apart the RH assembly, I cleaned every contact, using a wire brush, contact cleaner, and q-tips. I also found a screw inside the actual button that was tilted sideways. This must have been the problem, since it was tilted at an angle, it wasn't making good contact with the base. So, I straightened it out, put a bunch of super glue in the button, and held the screw straight while it dried.

I also eliminated the clutch safety segment in the headlight bucket. This was a graciously easy task since the connectors were already right there. My new button works! At least, for a few days. It sat a week while I waited for and installed a new stator. Now that I am trying to start it again, I have to push hard to get it to crank normally. If I just push it in normally, the engine cranks slowly. If I push it in a bit harder, it cranks fast like it is supposed to.

My question is, can a weak RH assembly cause this? The battery current to actually start the motor doesn't even pass through there, since the current drawn by the motor through the solenoid is massive compared to the current that engages the solenoid (which does go through the assembly/start button). I don't see how the current in the switch circuit could be proportional to the current to the starter motor - Isn't the solenoid just a big relay? If the current controlling the relay (the switch/starter button current) is "on", then the big current gets turned "on". Is there some halfway point between "on" and "off" in the controlling circuit that will have a limiting effect on the big current?

Also, if I replace the whole assembly, will an ATV starter switch assembly work? They are all over ebay for up to $20. I can't find one without headlight controls but I think I can just ignore those wires. If anyone knows of a good source for assemblies without headlight controls, just the killswitch and starter button, let me know! Especially if they are cheap. Man I don't know about yours, but this bike is a money hole :)

hey, I fixed the weird spelling mistake in the title but it still hasn't changed. Wierd Weird Weird
 
Last edited:
ekabil said:
I don't see how the current in the switch circuit could be proportional to the current to the starter motor - Isn't the solenoid just a big relay?
Click to expand...

Yes, it is. Good question. It might not be a single problem, but a combination of weaknesses. Perhaps your solenoid is marginal, as well as the starter contact, so that more pressure on the button = less resistance = a bit more current through the solenoid winding = slightly more electromagnetic force applied to the contacts inside. It's probable you're starting with a lower than optimal voltage as it is, with an older fuse panel & wiring.

Fortunately, these things are pretty easy to bypass. With a reasonable substitute for a jumper cable, you should be able to connect the battery + terminal to the starter solenoid actuating terminal, bypassing the starter button and all related circuitry. BIKE IN NEUTRAL!

You should get a good solid CLACK and a spinning starter motor. If so, your solenoid is OK. If not, well, you have problems with at least the solenoid, and probably the wiring to & from it.
 
The only voltage required through the starter button circuit is just what is required to activate the solenoid. I would say that what you have is a contact problem with the starter button. It could be a problem with the solenoid energizer wire/plug/contact on the solenoid too though. (the end of the starter button circuit)
 
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