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Wondering about gs's when new

  • Thread starter Thread starter Headphase
  • Start date Start date
H

Headphase

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Say you took a dozen brand new gs 1000's.

Would they all have the same valve shim sizes in to start with?

This is not leading anywhere, I was just wondering about it while doing the shims on the 650. (which was really unlucky, it needs 2 shims, and they are the swaps for one another, but I'm not sticking no cable tie down the plug hole, I'll just buy any old size shim so I can switch the 2 around easier)
 
Say you took a dozen brand new gs 1000's.

Would they all have the same valve shim sizes in to start with?

This is not leading anywhere, I was just wondering about it while doing the shims on the 650. (which was really unlucky, it needs 2 shims, and they are the swaps for one another, but I'm not sticking no cable tie down the plug hole, I'll just buy any old size shim so I can switch the 2 around easier)
No, they wouldnt. They may not even be as large as you think they should be. They would be whatever size was necessary to make the clearances within spec. And even then, from valve to valve, the clearances wouldnt have been the same.
 
Both of the 550’s I used to own were purchased with less than 1000 miles on the odometer and had never received a valve adjustment before I did it. The shims on these bikes were in the 2.80 range. Usage causes the valves to recede into the head thus thinner shims are needed as the bikes accumulate mileage.

I purchased my 850 with 3500 miles on it and was surprised to find the shims in the 2.60 range. I’m pretty sure this bike had never received a valve adjustment before I did it either so the thin shims must have been in there from new.

FYI, it’s handy to have a thin shim like a 2.40 so it can be installed on valves where the clearance is too small to get a feeler gauge in. The 2.40 shim will allow you to get a clearance reading so the appropriate shim can be calculated.
 
Just chiming in with some trivia that some may want to know. :-k

Besides the normal manufacturing variances, Suzuki had 2 different cylenderhead suppliers and 3 different camshaft suppliers, and although they were given the same specifications to meet these suppliers had tollerences they had to be within. Some would be at one end of the tollerance and some at the other. This resulted in a difference in camshaft hight to valve seat distance and differing distances from camshaft center to backside surface (opposite the lobe). Though these differences are very tiny they can add up to several thousandths of an inch from bike to bike and valve to valve. Oh yeah, the valve manufacturers had varying stem hights too.

That has been part of the improvements we've seen in motorcycle performance and reliability over the last 30 years. As the manufacturers and supplyers have been able to reduse these variances and design to tighter tollerances, Increasing efficiency.

I just thought this might give you a clearer picture of why we have to do the shim dance. :p
 
Though these differences are very tiny they can add up to several thousandths of an inch hundredths of a millimeter from bike to bike and valve to valve. Oh yeah, the valve manufacturers had varying stem hights too.



Now, now, we'll have none of this filthy talk in inches when discussing metric bikes... :D
 
Now, now, we'll have none of this filthy talk in inches when discussing metric bikes... :D

Hey now, If the manufacturers service manual can accomodate our cultural differences and provide spect in both toungs, we can have the tollerance to accept our non 10based bretheren. (pun intended) :p
 
... and they are the swaps for one another, but I'm not sticking no cable tie down the plug hole, I'll just buy any old size shim so I can switch the 2 around easier)
Actually you would be better off with an extra shim or two, but you still need to hold the valve down to get the shim out. I have the proper tool, but still prefer using zip-ties.

.
 
aye, I know Steve, thanks, I've got a proper wee suzuki tool thing, from z1, works a treat.
I'll get a hold of the odd shim as I go along anyway, just was slightly gutted that only 2 needed changed, and that they were a straight swap. And one of them is a mighty (x) shim, which I am led to believe is made of solid gold, and gets you a tour of the suzuki factory.
 
aye, I know Steve, thanks, I've got a proper wee suzuki tool thing, from z1, works a treat.
I'll get a hold of the odd shim as I go along anyway, just was slightly gutted that only 2 needed changed, and that they were a straight swap. And one of them is a mighty (x) shim, which I am led to believe is made of solid gold, and gets you a tour of the suzuki factory.
Aye indeed. MCeed by none other than Pops Yoshimura and Wes Cooley themselves. In the flesh even. Not lookin so good...but in the flesh.
 
Aye indeed. MCeed by none other than Pops Yoshimura and Wes Cooley themselves. In the flesh even. Not lookin so good...but in the flesh.

So, that would be animatronics? Maybe leftover robots from out of business Chuckee Cheese franchises?:eek:
 
I suppose one should really look at an "X" shim as being subpar, because it doesn't match the value stamped on it.

They do come in handy from time to time though, particularly for the anal retentive perfectionist, right Josh? ;)
 
I suppose one should really look at an "X" shim as being subpar, because it doesn't match the value stamped on it.

They do come in handy from time to time though, particularly for the anal retentive perfectionist, right Josh? ;)
Whos an anal retentive perfectionist? I have NO idea who you're talking about :rolleyes:
 
I have found the two inboard cylinder exhaust valves to be receding into the head and the intake side (all four) to actually need larger shims, probably due to deposits on the seat. I have shimmed my engine twice so far and recorded the change each time. Same valves needing adjusting too.

One of mine was around .05, real noisy. I use a metal tire iron for bicycle tires to press the valve, works great,
 
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