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LED Battery Gauge by Kuryakyn
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I'm leaning twards it not going that high. I think its limits are more in the ambient temp range.
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Ok Scanned the thread and looks like a nice (for the price) device. The remote temperature guage has me thinking. Does anybody know what the upper temperature range is? Duanage said it was too hot for the engine, but I'm thinking of possibly putting it on the return line of the oil cooler which might be closer to 220 deg max (if the cooler is working).
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Guest repliedMine came defective (didn't install it until it was already out of warranty) ... the backlights never worked and still don't. However, other than that little irritation (can't use it at night because I can't see it) it continues to function just fine...
Regards,
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by MacGyver View Post+1 on that. I have one on my KLR and love it. It isn't waterproof either, but I have it tucked under the windshield/faring well enough. The wires are a bit thin and challenging to work with, but that is nothing that a soldering iron and some better wire wouldn't fix. I'll likely get it or something like this for the V-Strom:
or a very simple and functional alternative:
http://www.dualsportplus.com/univers...e_Monitor.html
Thanks
Pat
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by Boondocks View PostI still think the best voltage monitor at a reasonable price that I have found is the Digital 5-Function Volt Meter. It sells for $21.48 plus low USPS postage.
or a very simple and functional alternative:
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Pat,
I'm still using mine and it still works the same as the day I bought it. Strangely enough, I see these gauges in catalogs all over the place from retailers who usually do not sell instruments. That suggests to me that it must sell pretty well.
So, I'm still please with mine and the dimmer still seems to know when to dim and when to brighten.
Best,
Jon
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Guest repliedI am bumping this thread because I am curious how this meter has held up for two years? Is anyone still ussing it? How well has it held up in the weather?
Thanks
Pat
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Guest repliedI bought the cheaper meter and had the same problem with it reading lower voltage than what it really was. I guess i'll have to call them and see what I have to do.
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Guest repliedthe $21 version
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by NewGSguy400 View Posthow difficult was installing this sensor?
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NewGSGuy,
It's not too hard if you have a simple understanding of electricity. Depending on your GS model, the necessary wires go right by your ignition switch and into the head light bucket. It's ideal to hook up the constant hot to the red wire that comes straight from your fuse box or battery. That wire will provide the most accuracy for your volt meter. For the orange or switched lead, find one of the orange or orange/striped wires on your bike and hook into that. This would all be easier to visualize if you had a wiring diagram for your GS.
-J
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Guest repliedhow difficult was installing this sensor?
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Originally posted by jonr View PostI'm confused then. One of the earlier posts indicated that the $21 version has 9mA draw when the bike is off and that if you wired to an ignition wire and not a constant hot, you would have to reset the clock every time.
J
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Originally posted by duaneage View PostThat's strange, the "$21 version" does this already. The clock and other features are always on when the ignition is off. And your right about price. When something that good is half the price (because it does not say Kuryakin) there seems to be little need for GSers to go there.
J
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Originally posted by jonr View PostHey gang,
On a side note, it would be nice if the $21 version would have a built-in button battery to run the clock while the ignition was off.
-J
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