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LED Battery Gauge by Kuryakyn

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  • four_shot
    replied
    I'm leaning twards it not going that high. I think its limits are more in the ambient temp range.

    Leave a comment:


  • posplayr
    replied
    Ok Scanned the thread and looks like a nice (for the price) device. The remote temperature guage has me thinking. Does anybody know what the upper temperature range is? Duanage said it was too hot for the engine, but I'm thinking of possibly putting it on the return line of the oil cooler which might be closer to 220 deg max (if the cooler is working).

    Leave a comment:


  • Planecrazy
    Guest replied
    Mine came defective (didn't install it until it was already out of warranty) ... the backlights never worked and still don't. However, other than that little irritation (can't use it at night because I can't see it) it continues to function just fine...

    Regards,

    Leave a comment:


  • Gravity Tester
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by MacGyver View Post
    +1 on that. I have one on my KLR and love it. It isn't waterproof either, but I have it tucked under the windshield/faring well enough. The wires are a bit thin and challenging to work with, but that is nothing that a soldering iron and some better wire wouldn't fix. I'll likely get it or something like this for the V-Strom:

    or a very simple and functional alternative:
    http://www.dualsportplus.com/univers...e_Monitor.html
    That is the second time that dualSport one has shown up on my radar I like it but I would like another LED to show me if voltage is too High.

    Thanks
    Pat

    Leave a comment:


  • MacGyver
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Boondocks View Post
    I still think the best voltage monitor at a reasonable price that I have found is the Digital 5-Function Volt Meter. It sells for $21.48 plus low USPS postage.



    +1 on that. I have one on my KLR and love it. It isn't waterproof either, but I have it tucked under the windshield/faring well enough. The wires are a bit thin and challenging to work with, but that is nothing that a soldering iron and some better wire wouldn't fix. I'll likely get it or something like this for the V-Strom:

    or a very simple and functional alternative:
    Bikes, Apparel, Electronics, Luggage, Helmets, Boots and all your gear you need to start riding today.

    Leave a comment:


  • jonr
    replied
    Pat,

    I'm still using mine and it still works the same as the day I bought it. Strangely enough, I see these gauges in catalogs all over the place from retailers who usually do not sell instruments. That suggests to me that it must sell pretty well.

    So, I'm still please with mine and the dimmer still seems to know when to dim and when to brighten.

    Best,
    Jon

    Leave a comment:


  • Gravity Tester
    Guest replied
    I am bumping this thread because I am curious how this meter has held up for two years? Is anyone still ussing it? How well has it held up in the weather?

    Thanks
    Pat

    Leave a comment:


  • dennis roy
    Guest replied
    I bought the cheaper meter and had the same problem with it reading lower voltage than what it really was. I guess i'll have to call them and see what I have to do.

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  • NewGSguy400
    Guest replied
    the $21 version

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  • mixongw
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by NewGSguy400 View Post
    how difficult was installing this sensor?
    Which one?

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  • jonr
    replied
    NewGSGuy,

    It's not too hard if you have a simple understanding of electricity. Depending on your GS model, the necessary wires go right by your ignition switch and into the head light bucket. It's ideal to hook up the constant hot to the red wire that comes straight from your fuse box or battery. That wire will provide the most accuracy for your volt meter. For the orange or switched lead, find one of the orange or orange/striped wires on your bike and hook into that. This would all be easier to visualize if you had a wiring diagram for your GS.

    -J

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  • NewGSguy400
    Guest replied
    how difficult was installing this sensor?

    Leave a comment:


  • duaneage
    replied
    Originally posted by jonr View Post
    I'm confused then. One of the earlier posts indicated that the $21 version has 9mA draw when the bike is off and that if you wired to an ignition wire and not a constant hot, you would have to reset the clock every time.

    J
    Nahh, not true. The red wire keeps it on for the clocks sake. The Orange wire goes to switched 12 adn that powers the lights up

    Leave a comment:


  • jonr
    replied
    Originally posted by duaneage View Post
    That's strange, the "$21 version" does this already. The clock and other features are always on when the ignition is off. And your right about price. When something that good is half the price (because it does not say Kuryakin) there seems to be little need for GSers to go there.
    I'm confused then. One of the earlier posts indicated that the $21 version has 9mA draw when the bike is off and that if you wired to an ignition wire and not a constant hot, you would have to reset the clock every time.

    J

    Leave a comment:


  • duaneage
    replied
    Originally posted by jonr View Post
    Hey gang,



    On a side note, it would be nice if the $21 version would have a built-in button battery to run the clock while the ignition was off.

    -J
    That's strange, the "$21 version" does this already. The clock and other features are always on when the ignition is off. And your right about price. When something that good is half the price (because it does not say Kuryakin) there seems to be little need for GSers to go there.

    Leave a comment:

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