So it has been over a season since I’ve had the bike running. Last year I started it up, dropped the choke and when I twisted the throttle the pull cable broke. And this year I have had too many big building projects to fix it and ride. But today is the day I decided to blow the dust off of my new (year old) throttle cable and install it. Disassembly was easy, the old cable had snapped, rusted about 4 inches from the top. Once the new cable was in I could not get the twisted open throttle to return to closed position. Twisting open was tighter than I remembered also. After a few adjustments on the lower push and pull cables I found I could almost make it work, but never once the housing assembly was screwed back together. Plenty of lube was involved with some head scratching and some mild swearing. It appeared that everything was in place, but something was binding, like I had over torqued the fasteners. I finally noticed that the new cable stay/anchor (or whatever the little lead barrel is called) projected from the plastic rotor it attaches to maybe a 32nd or 16th of an inch or so... hard to tell. So I took it apart again and it was wider than the original. I filed town both sides of the cable stay and reassembled it. It finally worked flawlessly. I would complain, but it was good to wrench on the bike again.
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Motion Pro throttle cable
Long time no post, good to be back.
So it has been over a season since I’ve had the bike running. Last year I started it up, dropped the choke and when I twisted the throttle the pull cable broke. And this year I have had too many big building projects to fix it and ride. But today is the day I decided to blow the dust off of my new (year old) throttle cable and install it. Disassembly was easy, the old cable had snapped, rusted about 4 inches from the top. Once the new cable was in I could not get the twisted open throttle to return to closed position. Twisting open was tighter than I remembered also. After a few adjustments on the lower push and pull cables I found I could almost make it work, but never once the housing assembly was screwed back together. Plenty of lube was involved with some head scratching and some mild swearing. It appeared that everything was in place, but something was binding, like I had over torqued the fasteners. I finally noticed that the new cable stay/anchor (or whatever the little lead barrel is called) projected from the plastic rotor it attaches to maybe a 32nd or 16th of an inch or so... hard to tell. So I took it apart again and it was wider than the original. I filed town both sides of the cable stay and reassembled it. It finally worked flawlessly. I would complain, but it was good to wrench on the bike again.Tags: None
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The stock push pull throttle on my '78 1000E has a bit of stickiness to it. I have a new Motion Pro to put on it. More than likely, a good lube is all the original one needs. It has chrome steel ends at the twist grip, and they still look fine. The Motion Pro has black plastic ones. They really won't make the machine look materially different. For a clutch cable, the OEM cable compresses less in use, and works better than aftermarket.sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things
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Another example of why OEM clutch, throttle, tach, and speedo cables are the only way to go. (Same for clutch and brake levers, too.)
OEM cables and levers are not even that much more expensive and in some cases are cheaper than the low-rent imitation crap MP pushes out.
Parts Unlimited cables and levers are to be avoided as well.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
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Does anyone have a measure of the amount of cable pull for the CV carbs?
I'm having the same issue with what I believe is a stock cable. Weird because I believe the cable has worked on the same bike before!
I measured the amount of free cable (inner sticking out of the outer) at 47mm. I have one from the older carbs which I can measure... but maybe also a GS750ES which was also a CV carb. I'm wondering with mine if maybe the throttle tube is not stock but then again that was on the bike too...1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
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Originally posted by bwringer View PostAnother example of why OEM clutch, throttle, tach, and speedo cables are the only way to go. (Same for clutch and brake levers, too.)
OEM cables and levers are not even that much more expensive and in some cases are cheaper than the low-rent imitation crap MP pushes out.
Parts Unlimited cables and levers are to be avoided as well.Last edited by chris; 09-25-2020, 03:24 PM.1983 gs1100ed restro-mod. 1998 gsxr 1100 almost mint, 2019 kawasaki klx250, 2011 Beta 250 evo trials bike, 2017 Montesa 300rr trials bike, 2021 honda crf250rx woods weapon
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Originally posted by salty_monk View PostDoes anyone have a measure of the amount of cable pull for the CV carbs?
I'm having the same issue with what I believe is a stock cable. Weird because I believe the cable has worked on the same bike before!
I measured the amount of free cable (inner sticking out of the outer) at 47mm. I have one from the older carbs which I can measure... but maybe also a GS750ES which was also a CV carb. I'm wondering with mine if maybe the throttle tube is not stock but then again that was on the bike too...The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
1981 gs850gx
1999 RF900
past bikes. RF900
TL1000s
Hayabusa
gsx 750f x2
197cc Francis Barnett
various British nails
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