what did you wrench on today??

[pete]

Missed an update last night...

Checked valve clearances last night after getting it running finally and only one shim needed which should be here tomorrow or Thursday.

Also figured out I need to lower my fork brace/front mudguard mount by about 25mm's to give me the full 140mm fork travel back

Tonight I got a bunch of parts in from Boulevard so replaced my carb intake boots and wow what a difference! I thought my old boots were passable... wrong! Huuuuge difference.

I also stuck the 22.5 pilot jet in and set the mixture screws so next time I start it should be somewhat less lean...

[pete]

And I also got done emailing through all the details and dimensions and work required to make the Dynatek DS3-3C work on my '82 450E which means fingers crossed there will be an official Dynatek for our 450's!

[MisterCinders]

Turns out the headlight ears are not as simple a swap as I thought.

Mounted the new chrome headlight onto the old bracket. Looks pretty sweet, much better than the old black plastic bucket.

After checking the parts fiche, I see how to uninstall the original headlight mount, so I will probably do that this weekend and swap out the black brackets for my new chrome ears.

The cables and wires that flow through that area are pretty tangled and tight, so I need to pull that apart to clean it up, shorten some of the wiring, and eliminate some superfluous wires. For instance, the gear indicator is no more (it never worked anyway) so I can lose that bundle of useless wiring. I also have some excess wire length from changing the gauges and front turn signals, so I can shorten those a bit to clean it up.

I also changed out my clutch lever for a shorter black one. The original clutch lever was worn and gave too much slack. The new one is sleek, but seems to have a very light touch. There is no play in the clutch handle, but moves very easily. Perhaps too easy. Will have to test it out with a rise around the neighborhood to make sure the clutch is engaging/disengaging properly.

I had purchased a matching brake lever, but it won't work. I thought I could cannibalize the lever from the new assembly and use it with my front MC, but they don't seem to interchange. Will leave the mis-matched levers for now. Maybe I will switch the front MC for a smaller one that matches the new clutch lever.

[MisterCinders]

LAFFO - That clutch lever was loose because the lock nut under the clutch cover was too light and not really grabbing the clutch. Took a bit to figure out the problem, but she is back in action clutch-wise.

Actually rode it to work today, and she ran OK. After a 20 minutes of stop-and-go riding, the head began to smoke a bit. I couldn't find any leaks, and I think it was just some grease and/or residue burning off the surface. It did not return during my ride home, as far as I can tell.



Changed out my tach light bulb for a blue LED to match the speedo.

Built some new SS brake lines. Getting ready to bleed them and lose the old ratty rubber lines.

[koolaid_kid]

Worked on the GPz jetting. I may have it nailed, finally. The pilot jets were a booger, and DJ provides no information on what to do,
Started removing decals on same in preparation for replacement. Removed luggage rack for sanding and repainting. Getting close, real close.

[MisterCinders]

After building my new SS brake lines, I went to start bleeding the front brake to prep for installing the new line.

When my 8mm box wrench couldn't get enough grip to turn the bleeder valve, I sprayed some PB blaster on it and let it sit for a bit. Tried again but my crappy box wrench and the nut both seemed worn and it would grip, but the wrench would slip before turning the nut.

After a little more PB and time, I returned with an 8mm socket (which is a better quality than my box wrench set) to worry that nut loose.

It felt like it was starting to turn when . . . the whole damn bleeder snapped off the caliper.

I ordered a another caliper off eBay, since they were pretty cheap. Already have new pads at hand, since I was going to change those out anyway.

Strangely enough, the sheared bleeder valve does not leak any fluid. I figured that the broken bleeder would leave a drafty hole in the brake system, but when I work the brake lever, nothing comes out at the caliper and the brake feels just a firm as before, no spongy feel at all.

[Dogma]

...
Strangely enough, the sheared bleeder valve does not leak any fluid. I figured that the broken bleeder would leave a drafty hole in the brake system, but when I work the brake lever, nothing comes out at the caliper and the brake feels just a firm as before, no spongy feel at all.

Yup. No flow until they're unseated.

[850GT_Rider]

After building my new SS brake lines, I went to start bleeding the front brake to prep for installing the new line.

When my 8mm box wrench couldn't get enough grip to turn the bleeder valve, I sprayed some PB blaster on it and let it sit for a bit. Tried again but my crappy box wrench and the nut both seemed worn and it would grip, but the wrench would slip before turning the nut.

After a little more PB and time, I returned with an 8mm socket (which is a better quality than my box wrench set) to worry that nut loose.

It felt like it was starting to turn when . . . the whole damn bleeder snapped off the caliper.

I ordered a another caliper off eBay, since they were pretty cheap. Already have new pads at hand, since I was going to change those out anyway.

Strangely enough, the sheared bleeder valve does not leak any fluid. I figured that the broken bleeder would leave a drafty hole in the brake system, but when I work the brake lever, nothing comes out at the caliper and the brake feels just a firm as before, no spongy feel at all.

Been there, done that. Only I broke mine off during rebuild, so no way to bleed it. Then, broke off the easy-out trying to salvage the caliper.

[7981GS]

A little bit late but anyway here goes...
The next time that you attempt to remove a stubborn brake bleeder,
heat it with propane or map gas torch and let it cool down. (keep water handy in case of fire)
Then, make certain that you use a 6-point socket and work it back and forth until it submits to your efforts.

Daniel

[Hoosier Daddy]

+1 on the 6 point, I was thinking the same thing while reading this. If you must heat it... do it lightly. If you get the brake fluid hot enough, it will expand / boil and blow out seals or a hose. Before the heat, try to gently tap the threaded boss of the caliper where the bleeder threads into it with the "ball" of a ball peen hammer while applying the tourque with your wrench.

[rubline]

I replaced my rear brake pads on my 82 GS1100E. Very easy to do only took 5 minutes.

[Leigh]

My lounge room
~sigh~

[pete]

My lounge room
~sigh~

Hahaha

Better than me, nothing for the third day in a row...

[MisterCinders]

Oh well. Some PO snapped off one of the two rear brake bleeders. Looks like I am rebuilding both brakes now.

Also managed to snap my speedo cable. So I am ordering a new cable too.

[GSJim]

Nothing. But I declared war on the mice that chewed up the shop cloths I left my nice clean parts on. The front of my garage has lots of traps just waiting for furry visitors. If the traps don't work, the next step is napalm.

Jim