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    I replaced my (broken) speedo cable on my ES. I bought a tach cable too but I'll do that over the winter w/ other maint. Then I rode 70 mi in 70 + deg sunshine & stunning fall colors.

    Comment


      Frank...you do realise the trip meter isnt gonna stay on 1980 unless you have removed the connector gear between it and the odometer.....dont you???
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        Originally posted by redstedman View Post
        I replaced my (broken) speedo cable on my ES. I bought a tach cable too but I'll do that over the winter w/ other maint. Then I rode 70 mi in 70 + deg sunshine & stunning fall colors.
        ??
        no longer electronic?

        Comment


          Originally posted by ptexotik View Post
          ??
          no longer electronic?
          Hell, I don.t know, didn't look at it. I guess I better.

          Comment


            Cleaned and rebuilt the petcock on the 650 I picked up. It was obviously messed with before as the o ring on the shut off shaft was not shrunken or cracked, but rather melted and gummy and stuck in the tapered sealing area. Wrong grade ring. Petcock SEEMS to be funtional , will know soon enough. I had good results with another one I fixed up. Oh yeah, there was no spring in the petcock either! I had a trashed one I scavenged a spring from.
            Airbox intake boots were installed all wonky, straitened them up too.
            Same bike came to me with 2 intake boots where the rubber came off the metal base plate, just for kicks used a high heat epoxy supposedly appropriate for rubber and glued the rubber back on , then used some high quality , flexible sealant to "top caulk"/ build a gusset around the exterior of the boot to furthre bond it to the metal. I know they will work long enough to get the bike running and see how it runs/shifts.
            No long term solution to boot repair, I know, but I would have just been sitting around anyways, figured I would get crafty.
            Intake boot test repair:


            Hope to get the carbs/tank on in the next few hours and get her to fire tonight.
            Last edited by Guest; 10-05-2012, 08:06 PM.

            Comment


              ..was rolling around the yard today on the parts bike...battery charges now, both turn signals now work so I will sooner or later have to find a new brake reservoir because this bike has papers and looks to be worth it, now.. ...

              ....but no way I can keep up with your production, gsrick!-yikes! talk about motivated! and I'm going out to look at my ignition key to see if that tip works! seeing as I want to see if I can get the tachometer to loosen up and read correct revs anyways + a lightbulb for the neutral ...but a couple of successes like that and it'll be quitting time for me!!

              ... reading your post,gsrick, recalls a picture chilly midnights and the ol' garage with the light on ...my fingers chilled with gas and a fleeting thought about the really old wiring in it-but I know the lightswitches are spark-proofed with cobweb and dirt so no worries...

              Comment


                ..I wonder if that vinyl dip for toolhandles would work temporary for a cracked carbboot...hmm. PO of my go-to-meeting bike put it on suspect spots of the seat and it is holding flexibly..

                Comment


                  Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                  Frank...you do realise the trip meter isnt gonna stay on 1980 unless you have removed the connector gear between it and the odometer.....dont you???
                  Yeah, it was just for the money shot. I'm now in the year 2440...
                  '80 GS1000ST
                  '92 ZX-11
                  Past rides: '79 GS1000SN, '84 GPZ900R

                  http://totalrider.com/

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Gorminrider View Post
                    ..I wonder if that vinyl dip for toolhandles would work temporary for a cracked carbboot...hmm. PO of my go-to-meeting bike put it on suspect spots of the seat and it is holding flexibly..
                    For temporary use, it might. Silicone based caulk might also work.

                    It makes me wonder why rubber is in the system, instead of using aluminum tubes with O-rings on the carb side, like the O-rings on the cylinder side.
                    sigpic[Tom]

                    “The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George Kennan

                    Comment


                      I purchased a used GS500 master cylinder after a summer of fighting with the stock master on my GR. Just can't get the original to hold pressure properly, so decided to get a newer one on Ebay.

                      It arrive with a cloudy sight window and it just collapsed when I touched it. Decided the best option was another Ebay purchase--a $15 piece of glass and some instructions on how to install real glass into the sight glass hole.

                      Put the glass in today. Used Permatix Silicone as per instructions. Letting it sit for 24 hours and then I'll find out whether the fix really worked.
                      Last edited by Guest; 10-06-2012, 09:18 PM.

                      Comment


                        I have the engine out of the bike and it's 85% disassembled, I'm just debating on how far I want to go...

                        For sure I'm replacing the bad output shaft and painting the engine, getting the outer covers powder coated wrinkle black, putting in the stainless bolt kit from Z1 and replacing the clutch springs/cam tensioner gasket. I'll be painting the forks and wheels black, but I'm deciding if I want to get the frame powder coated or just touch up the bad areas.

                        I'm going to be painting my Virago tank and cafe seat Battleship Grey and want to add a brown leather seat and grips. Basically the same scheme as this


                        Same color paint. If I powdercoat the frame/swingarm should I go gloss black or silver? The engine will be blacked out with a few small stainless and chrome accents, and the wheels will be black too so I would like some contrast. What do you guys think?

                        Comment


                          The eldest and I got ready for a nice short ride after school today but didn't even make it out of the driveway when I saw a problem with the right front caliper. First thought it was my forks since I noticed some dampness around the dust cover but finally saw the caliper dripping as I squeezed the lever. After taking it apart, I found the smaller (I have the twinpot calipers) of the two pistons would not move whatsoever when I squeezed the lever.

                          I'll order new seals and pistons maybe this weekend. I just hope I put it back together correctly this time.
                          Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

                          1981 GS550T - My First
                          1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
                          2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

                          Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
                          Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
                          and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by themess View Post
                            For temporary use, it might. Silicone based caulk might also work.

                            It makes me wonder why rubber is in the system, instead of using aluminum tubes with O-rings on the carb side, like the O-rings on the cylinder side.
                            "Usually" for a two fold purpose:
                            1) Cheaper to produce
                            2) Transfers less heat to the carbs for beter air/fuel ratio

                            Comment


                              Replaced the Buell's back brake pads. Took all of 10 mins and was heaps easier than I anticipated.

                              Wish I could say the same for the price of the pads...

                              Comment


                                Replaced front brake pads on my 93 Sable wagon. One of the slider pins won't reach specified torque. The pin is fine. I assume that the threads it screws in to are shot. Replacing the casting is more expensive and time consuming than the car is worth. So, no more highway driving for this car. If I get one more winter out of it, I'll be happy.
                                sigpic[Tom]

                                “The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George Kennan

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