what did you wrench on today??

[Carter Turk]

Ummm, I hope those brake pots aren't just hanging by the brake hose...cuz that's a no no. Didn't know the Katanas had leading axle frorks?

I've done a lot of no no's, but the same Russell brake lines have been there since 1996. I do hear what you're saying, as I usually swap out tires immediately, but the lines where hanging like that for 22hrs.

Forks are from 80 1100 ET, no adjustments on the 83's that were on there before.

[mrbill5491]

I've done a lot of no no's, but the same Russell brake lines have been there since 1996. I do hear what you're saying, as I usually swap out tires immediately, but the lines where hanging like that for 22hrs.

Forks are from 80 1100 ET, no adjustments on the 83's that were on there before.

Oh okay, same forks I put on my 750. I also installed Sonic springs in them, very nice improvement over the stock springs.

[cowboyup3371]

My buddy and I actually pulled the Jeep's engine out last night but couldn't get it onto the stand until this morning since I didn't have long enough bolts for two holes. Two transmission bolts took us over an hour to remove as they were on the top of the engine and not easy to access. Plus the engine decided it would continue relieving itself of the antifreeze all over me.

Now to tear it apart and see if the heads are warped.

[Steve]

what did you wrench on today??

I was all set to say "NOTHING, I went for a ride!"

Well I did go for a ride, but helped my neighbor clean out a carb for his lawn mower when I got home.

Just a half-hearted pull on the starter rope gets it going now, sorta like a well-tuned GS.

.

[GregT]

Finished the CB1100R - actually I believe an RB for the rivet counters - today and it will go to the owner tomorrow.
It has been liberally sprinkled with gold dust...

cases, head and barrels stripped and professionally repainted
built around a 900 crank with the 1100R rods, new bolts of course..
wiseco 3mm oversize pistons. matching head and base gaskets.
New primary chain and both cam chains
Vince and Hyde (NZ made) aftermarket cam chain tensioner and guide - a nice piece. Both the guide and the tensioner blade look to be CNC'd from a suitable plastic - both are substantial pieces and both needed trimming to fit properly. Tensioner is top pivoted and manually adjusted. $$$
900 primary sprocket with new rubbers fitted to the 1100 jackshaft - a minor mission itself.
Clutch basket shimmed - normal with these...

I'm told it will be raced lightly - he's now realising every time he races it, just how much it's worth...Probably do the next Barry Sheene meeting at Hampton Downs then it's a road bike...

[tkent02]

Finished up my front brake. Lines, new master, and the caliper rebuilt.

[Hilvhendo]

SH775 mounted on GS 750T

Installed the SH775 on my GS 750T

Marked then drilled new mounting hole




No room for the Triumph connector, re-routed the stator wires...




All back together

[cowboyup3371]

After replacing the fork cover on my bike, the intake manifold, fuel rail, injectors, valve covers, water pump, and exhaust manifolds came off of the Jeep fairly easily today. I just need to decide if I'll pull the valves out myself on the heads or let a machine shop do it when I have them check to see if they are warped.





The only major setback so far is a broken plastic thread section of what I think is a vacuum hose connection. OReilly's Auto says a left handed screw extractor will work fine so we'll see how it works for me. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

[GSX1000E]

After several problems with the powder-coater and the parts being lost in the mail on their return trip, I FINALLY got back to working on the '80 1100E basket case that I picked up several weeks ago.
This one has only been hibernating for a little more than 17 years. (Last registered in1997) It was very rough to say the least.
Here is a little teaser shot from this evening...


I still have to finish re-building the clutch as after I got it running and started to pull the parts to get PCed, I found this little jewel laying inside the clutch compartment...


The missing bolt and spacer were nowhere to be found! I will be pulling the oil pan...

Edit: Yes, I am also working on bringing the '78 750B back to life concurrently.

[GSX1000E]

Looky what I found in the oil pan to match the loose clutch spring...


After stealing the good parts from a spare '83 1100E engine, I got it all back together with a new stock clutch hub nut and GREEN locktite and a Cometic gasket.
I torqued the cover bolts to 6.8 ft.lbs. with a clicker torque wrench and called it a night.
(Should I have checked with the resident GS expert, Cowboy, before getting this far? )

[themess]

...
The only major setback so far is a broken plastic thread section of what I think is a vacuum hose connection. OReilly's Auto says a left handed screw extractor will work fine so we'll see how it works for me. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Many threads cover the procedure and the problem. Often, the screw extractor breaks off. The steel used in extractors is very hard, which makes it difficult to do much with it outside of a machine shop.

Here's what I do:

0) Soak for a few days in penetrating oil.

1) Use a center punch to indent the center of the broken screw/bolt. This is where the hole will be, so be careful and get it right. If the screw broke at an angle making this almost impossible, use a grinder ball on the end of a Dremel first. Get it in the *center*.

2) Buy a set of left hand drills. Harbor Freight sells them for about $15. Those are acceptable. Better ones can be found at many places, including at McMaster Carr.

3) Find the angle of the screw. Drop a thin rod or use a threaded rod in one of the holes parallel to the broken screw. Hold your drill at that angle. You're going to be holding that drill for a long time, so find a position where the weight is supported and you are guiding.

4) Use cutting oil or motor oil to lubricate.

5) Drill down the length of the broken screw using the smallest drill. Use moderate pressure and keep under 200 RPM or so.

6) Stop every two to three minutes. Be sure that the tip of the drill is not hot. If it is, use less pressure or slower speed. If it isn't warm, use more pressure/speed. Add oil and continue.

7) Repeat until you are through the length of the screw, or until the drill chuck is almost interfering with the screw or surrounding metal. It could easily take an hour.

8) Change to the next large drill and repeat. This will go much faster. The cutting part of the drill has something to cut into.

8) Keep using larger drills.

9) Eventually, the screw will give up and spin out. That is the reason for using left-hard drills. The screw is held in by a combination of corrosion and pressure against the female threads. Penetrating oil + heat from drilling + vibration from drilling will fracture the soft rust. As the core is drilled out, the screw will slightly shrink into itself, relieving the tension. The drill will rapidly speed up and the hollow screw will spin out.

10) Chase the thread with a tap.

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks Themess but this was the plastic screw piece to the crankshaft breather valve for the jeep - there are two of them both plastic but only one broke. The middle of them is hollow and I'm told by a couple of auto parts stores to use the extractor for it.

If it had been the bike you're right, i wouldn't even try

[pete]

I finally got to use my new chain tools on Sunday, a cleaning brush and an alignment too. While I was 99% sure my chain was aligned I just wanted to verify it was good with something other than just my eyes and yep it's all good.



The bristles on the brush are soft enough not to bother the O rings but firm enough to really get the old lube and grunge off when used with kerosene. The chain's much happier now with a clean and some Silkolene Titanium Dri Gel chain lube.

I also gave her her first wash/polish/wax in a couple of months seeing as I was on call and couldn't go riding...



And of course yesterday she's started her intermittent single cylinder imitation yet again so I suspect I will be giving her more attention this week although I don't know where to look next... I know it's not a coil malfunction but that's all I know for sure...

[dorkburger]

No wrenching per se, but it did get its yearly wash/degreasing....

[dorkburger]

and later....

Embarrassing to admit, but the rear brake fluid was original up to about 2 hours ago....Had a little time so I changed it. Im not a total fool, so I did expect trouble. As soon as the pedal travelled more then it had for 29 years, the piston in the M/C got stuck. I removed the M/C cleaned it out blew it out, and restored operation, reassembled the lines and bled the brakes.....done. For now. The old fluid looked like iced tea. The rear brake was dragging a bit, which is what prompted this work.