what did you wrench on today??

[GSX1000E]

Thanks for the praise, it's reasonably stock, with just a little added bling.
Just bled the front brakes, using a syringe and clear tube to back flush the air out of the system, but the lever still is about 3/4 inch away from the throttle before it tightens up.
The back brake won't bleed at all, so I'm thinking I've installed the slave cylinder rubber back to front. It's all new components except for the actual cylinder, and I've force bled it both ways and still no resistance on the brake pedal.
Looks like I'll have to drain it all and check the cylinder again, but I would of thought it leaked or locked up if I got the slave cylinder piston rubber around the wrong way.
Oh well, back to the drawing board.

Try to fill as much brake fluid into the chamber before you install the snap ring. The rear masters can really be a bear.

[sinkankan]

Todays effort is going to be the stripping off the back brakes to check the $6 rubber on the slave cylinder piston, to see if it's around the right way.
This is part of the extra bling (chromed) added to the bike, the brace bars holding the carbies at the set distances was a no brainer. They just looked crap in their original metal finish, so for a few dollars they got the extra touch. Same with back brake lever and slave cylinder piston, they looked ok but why not chrome them for added appeal and surface treatment.
Once it's on the bike I hate taking parts off again, so I try and plan ahead to only do it the right way,once. Luckily the Suzuki dealer in Perth Australia has a good parts dealership, and/or can still get parts from Suzuki Sydney or Japan. And surprising enough the pricing has been reasonable. Except for an American supplier who wouldn't/couldn't send the correct left hand side handle bar switch, it's been basically an Australian part rebuild.

[dorkburger]

Peeled the carbs off of the 1150. I degummed them and cleaned them up during the last decade of last century, but didnt know of the o rings. I just got a Bob Barr kit. The intake boots are rock hard and cracked.

http://

The worst intake boot. The raised ridge that sits in the groove on the carb is flat...
The idle was fluctuating toward the end of the riding season and i suspect this was the reason.

http://

[dorkburger]

Well, I hadn't planned on fully stripping them today. I was only going to open them up to see if additional parts would be needed. BUT....My wife is out helping a friend, the kids are busy with Christmas booty, the garage temperature was bearable, so what the heck? The insides looked good. The outsides were quite filthy due to a leaking valve cover......Maybe ill address that as well, as its just the rubber washers under the holddown bolts. I soaked the parts in a mild cleaner, scrubbed them, rinsed and inspected them. later I'll blow out the passages, check them again then do the o rings. I need to check into how to go about setting/checking the float level. Luckily for me Nessim has a tutorial on my exact carbs, and Londonboards has some great detailed info on these as well....

AND.....i didnt lose any tiny parts! Coffee cup in pic was refilled a few times......http://

[jsandidge]

Well, I hadn't planned on fully stripping them today. I was only going to open them up to see if additional parts would be needed. BUT....My wife is out helping a friend, the kids are busy with Christmas booty, the garage temperature was bearable, so what the heck? The insides looked good. The outsides were quite filthy due to a leaking valve cover......Maybe ill address that as well, as its just the rubber washers under the holddown bolts. I soaked the parts in a mild cleaner, scrubbed them, rinsed and inspected them. later I'll blow out the passages, check them again then do the o rings. I need to check into how to go about setting/checking the float level. Luckily for me Nessim has a tutorial on my exact carbs, and Londonboards has some great detailed info on these as well....

AND.....i didnt lose any tiny parts! Coffee cup in pic was refilled a few times......http://

You are planning to soak each of them in Berrymans for a full 24 hours I hope. Can't do a proper job in just 1 day.

[dorkburger]

You are planning to soak each of them in Berrymans for a full 24 hours I hope. Can't do a proper job in just 1 day.

At the risk of sounding like a hack, I'm not sure I need to. I soaked them for a few days then fully cleaned them when I bought the bike in '99, (the carbs were a horror after a 12 year slumber), and its been in cotinuous use since, and a good runner. The reason for the current work is that in '99 I knew nothing of the o rings that would need replacement, and the intake boots are shot. So far all looks good, but they will be rechecked and blown out before final assembly.

[sinkankan]

Well, it's got me stumped why the back brakes won't bleed. I've got new brake lines, bleed nipples, new slave cylinder kit installed (correctly) new hose from the master cup to the cylinder, new rubbers in the back brake pistons. I've filled the cylinder to the top and reconnected the brake hose, tested the stroke of the ram, I'm getting fluid out of both nipples and no air bubbles, and still there's no pressure on the brake lever. No leaks anywhere, but I did notice the bleed nipples weep a little if not tightened up fully.
I've wedged the brake lever down overnight, to see if any air bubbles in the system will make their way out, no luck.
any ideas people?

[chuck hahn]

Oil change and serviced the breather element bowl thing. Cleaned the sediment out, washed the filter and cleaned the two screens that go on each side of the filter.

#19 here and associated parts::

http://www.hondabikes.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

[chuck hahn]

Teflon tape the threads of the bleeder nipples to be sure air isnt bypassing via the threads. And the seats and points of the bleeders have to be real good and not pitted to seal good.

Did you use new crush washers on the banjo bolts? They are made to be a 1 time use deal.

[cowboyup3371]

Confirmed I have a leak coming from one of the clutch cover bolts; I'll order a new gasket before I remove it to see if it tore or the screw wasn't tight enough.

Still trying to confirm if the cam chain tensioner or the oil pressure sensor is leaking. Is it possible for the sensor to leak at the plastic and not at the actual joint?

[Grimly]

Well, it's got me stumped why the back brakes won't bleed. I've got new brake lines, bleed nipples, new slave cylinder kit installed (correctly) new hose from the master cup to the cylinder, new rubbers in the back brake pistons. I've filled the cylinder to the top and reconnected the brake hose, tested the stroke of the ram, I'm getting fluid out of both nipples and no air bubbles, and still there's no pressure on the brake lever. No leaks anywhere, but I did notice the bleed nipples weep a little if not tightened up fully.
I've wedged the brake lever down overnight, to see if any air bubbles in the system will make their way out, no luck.
any ideas people?

Check if there's a tiny (1mm) relief port in the master cylinder that might have been blocked. Exactly the same symptoms as you describe are found when that port is blocked in the front master.

[dorkburger]

Carbs are back together and bench synced....now I need to pony up some cash and buy intake boots.....

[sinkankan]

Hospital bed converted to bike lifter

I was thinking for ages of how to afford a bike lifter in my small shed, I looked at the Chinese copies in the local auto shops, they looked flimsey and unstable. Friends had used timber frames, but they were rigid and you couldn't adjust the height.
Most of the store bought lifters were heavy, took up too much room, had no way of wheeling them around, and you had to mortage you first born for an electric or hydraulic powered one.
I spied with my little eye a pyshiotherapist bed at the local disposals store, it originally ahd a wide (1 metre) mattress on the top, so it should of had to cater for the "large boned" people.
After some initial haggling I bought two of them, one went to a mates Cafe Racer shop, and took the best one home.
after a few hours, I stripped the bed off, installed a painted 2mm thick sheet of steel with folded edges on top, installed a wheel chock bought for $45 at an auto shop, and used a couple of Stainless steel u-bolts for the tie downs.
The steel top cost $70 from a local fabricator, $12 for two rattle cans of black paint, and the u-bolts were free.
Research from a medical supplier says it's suppose to safely lift 240kg, with a safety factor built in. So a GS850G weighs approx 263kg so theoretically it should lift my bike. But for the excercise I wheeled the BSA on and it lifted it no dramas. It's also got a tilt option, to load patients on at a 90 degree tilt. So for under $350 I got the lifter I wanted and I can wheel a loaded bike around and lock the wheels.
link to the You Tube clip below, hope it works.

/http://youtu.be/Ab-XAWu_VCg

[Grimly]

So for under $350 I got the lifter I wanted and I can wheel a loaded bike around and lock the wheels.
link to the You Tube clip below, hope it works.

http://youtu.be/Ab-XAWu_VCg

Superb stuff I wonder if the plague of fatties is rendering many of these beds obsolete now, and having to be traded up for heavier-duty ones, leaving us able to pick up the old ones.
Cheez, imagine weighing more than a GS850.

[GSX1000E]

Great idea! I love it!