what did you wrench on today??

[GregT]

Greg I'd be very interested in seeing your build! I would like the bike to be a bit of a fire breather. It's snappy but would like it to be quick. I hear the brakes are more then adequate if paired with modern master cylinders and stainless lines. They actually are pretty decent as is... Their design seems to create an odd wear to the pads (a diagonal wear across the pad).

Please shoot me a link or PM.

Thanks for you share!

It's the Yamaha triples.org forum, the thread (a long one...) is XS racebike, by Redman.

[edgeofvamp]

So, found a leak in the '85 550's fuel crossover pipe. This is what my dining room table looked like and the new hardware after having to use a pair of vice grips to remove all the stripped screw heads. Hope you guys like the orderly breakdown and the black hardware.

[Jedz123]

It's the Yamaha triples.org forum, the thread (a long one...) is XS racebike, by Redman.

I've been doing some research, apparently pretty easy and Cheap(ish) to get the bike into the 900cc realm. Winter project... Maybe, I think the exhaust on the Connie is going to come first...

So, found a leak in the '85 550's fuel crossover pipe. This is what my dining room table looked like and the new hardware after having to use a pair of vice grips to remove all the stripped screw heads. Hope you guys like the orderly breakdown and the black hardware.

These carbs look very much like the carbs on a KZ1300... Didn't know the were found on a GS550...

Did more work on the XS. Changed the rear and center diff oil then detailed the back, swapped the brake pads and painted some of the bits... Looking good!!!





Next step is fork seals, fork oil change, fork boots, front tire and detail clean... She's coming along!

[themess]

[QUOTE=Joe H;2214552]Ya it is where the problems will show up quickly, but the lowly middle cylinder gets a bad rap for taking on the problems of the other two. In general a well tuned triple will not show big middle cylinder temp differences but they will when there is a problem. If you own a triple 2 stroke it needs a bit of attention and most guys monitor the cylinder temp periodically or regularly. When there is a rise in any cylinder temp it means theres a problem and all the over jetting and over boring that has been done to the middle cylinder is only a bandaid. I too have been monitoring regularly and can say the difference so far no matter how hard I beat it is about 15 deg. Some guys show well under that. I have been told 50 deg difference is where the concern really starts to get big.

Might be the reason that Suzuki GT's ram air system grabbed more in the center than on the side cylinders.

[Joe H]

[QUOTE=themess;2215335]

Ya it is where the problems will show up quickly, but the lowly middle cylinder gets a bad rap for taking on the problems of the other two. In general a well tuned triple will not show big middle cylinder temp differences but they will when there is a problem. If you own a triple 2 stroke it needs a bit of attention and most guys monitor the cylinder temp periodically or regularly. When there is a rise in any cylinder temp it means theres a problem and all the over jetting and over boring that has been done to the middle cylinder is only a bandaid. I too have been monitoring regularly and can say the difference so far no matter how hard I beat it is about 15 deg. Some guys show well under that. I have been told 50 deg difference is where the concern really starts to get big.

Might be the reason that Suzuki GT's ram air system grabbed more in the center than on the side cylinders.

I saw one guy who put scopes like that on the Kawi, I wonder how good it worked.

Anyone ever monitor our 4 cly to see how different they are? I know stock Suzuki had different jets middle left and middle right and you would sync them slightly different on the center two. Does anyone do this with the Dyna jet or Factory pro kits. I know I don't, but I also never did a temp reading…

I am on track to have the temps into the 10 deg range, the closer I get the jetting the better it gets, and its a real pain in the arse to sync and then balance the carbs on the H2, the tinyiest t bit out and there WAY off and you can tell it will idle for crap.
I have been thinking of drilling in some holes on the carbs so I can use my carb sticks. Im still doing it the old fashioned way with idle rpms and drill bits as gauges. The problem is if one cylinder is pulling more than the other it gets tricky, might buy one of these and try it out;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redline-Weber-Dellorto-Mikuni-SU-Synchrometer-Carburetor-Synchronizer-NEW-/281684328651?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

[steve murdoch]

Spent a couple hours cleaning because my little homemade paint booth didn't work and i got overspray on a couple bikes.
What a maroon.

[Ray916MN]

1997 Bimota DB2



Was planning on putting on a set of Dymag CF wheels I ordered 2.5 months ago, Brembo cast iron full floating rotors and 41mm Keihin FCR carbs.



Fortunately before pulling the stock wheels, unfortunately discovered that the front wheel will not fit





Further measuring showed that the hub is about 1" too narrow too.

Carbs got mounted



Unfortunately the stock throttle cables and air filters that were on the bike won't work, so they got ordered.

Ninja 1000 (Z1000SX) in the background of the first pic got new front and rear tires.

[sinkankan]

Learnt the hard way, before trying to paint polished aluminium you must etch prime it. Otherwise the paint just peels off as you take the masking tape off. This is a aircraft spinner recycled and cut in half to form up a tail for the BSA, which is having a minor makeover for the Distingushed Gentlemans Ride coming up soon.
The tail piece will have the "chromed" panel showing though the silver paint that's matched to the tank colors. And then a fine
red pinstrip around it.
You can see the silver color on the toolbox on the side, this was matched from some auto touch up paints bought at the local hardware disposals for $2 a can, the spinner came out of my mates hotrod shop, he does metal spinning part time.

[steve murdoch]

Ray, there is a guy near me with a DB1.
A gorgeous bike and tiny.
Have you ever weighed your beauty?
Disregard if i have asked this previously.

[Grimly]

Molished up a mount for a dimpled alloy suitcase, to match it to the Givi side rack mount. Found the perfect mounting plate material in the form of some engineering plastic from a local stockholder.



The tongue of the Givi bracket pokes through the mount plate and the case, and is secured by a spring snap-ring pin inside. Anybody trying to nick this will have to destroy it to get it off.





The width of the case is perfect - exactly the same as the tip of the bar.

Hammer for scale

Oh, and the 'engineering plastic' found in the kitchen place was a chopping board of 8mm thick HDPE...


One down; one to go, and I might make others up for at least one other bike. For this one, I need to find another dimpled case, as it's very tough construction, whereas the normal mainstream ally cases are composite (ally sheathed plywood) and not all that weatherproof.

[Buffalo Bill]

Kinda cool but, with those aluminum cases, you'll look like some kind of repair tech or photographer on a bike.
I like em.
PS: I see no water seal on the edges, better keep your stuff in plastic bags when you use them.

[Grimly]

This one is showerproof but there will be nothing important going inside it that can't stand a bit of damp, or at the very least will be in a plastic bag. Its main function is for shopping trips, where the rear box and another box strapped onto the pillion seat normally suffice, but doing that on the XJ left some marks on the seat, so I was spurred into making this pannier up sooner than I had intended to.
By the addition of a second side box and the main rear box, there will be enough carrying capacity for all I need. Of course, the additional benefit is having more of the weight lower down.
I think I've found a matching case for the other side, too.

[gordinho80]

Went to do an oil change... drained the pan and then removed the filter. All good until I went to put the drain plug back in. Threads on the pan are stripped!! Should I tap it for a new drain plug or should I buy a replacement pan? Suggestions for where I should get replacement from? New? Used?

[mrbill5491]

Went to do an oil change... drained the pan and then removed the filter. All good until I went to put the drain plug back in. Threads on the pan are stripped!! Should I tap it for a new drain plug or should I buy a replacement pan? Suggestions for where I should get replacement from? New? Used?

Pull your oil pan, clean it good ( order a new oil pan gasket) and install ( you can do this or have a trusted dealer or machine shop do it for you) a steel threaded insert into the oil drain hole. Make sure the insert is flush with the bottom of the drain hole on the out side. On the inside of the pan, cut out two small notches in the insert (why? the insert will be slightly taller on the inside) so all the oil can drain out, then go to a NAPA parts store or what ever one you like and find a drain plug to fit and a a copper crush ( get spares) washer. Reinstall the pan and new gasket (no need for any sealant of any type) using the proper torque specs and you'll never have to worry about a stripped drain hole again. No new pan and no more weak threads. This is THE fix for it.

[mrbill5491]

Changed the fork oil in my forks and resized my preload spacers, discovered I had cut them a bit short the first time. New Bel Rey 10w fork oil and spacers and we be good now.