what did you wrench on today??

[Guest]

spend the $15 on the tool on ebay.... save yourself hours of extra work

Which tool is that? I just did a quick search on Ebay for "Suzuki GS850 valve adjustment tool" and got a few different types. I'm about to tackle mine as well and don't want to suffer any more frustration than necessary.

Scott

[Blue Falcon]

Which tool is that? I just did a quick search on Ebay for "Suzuki GS850 valve adjustment tool" and got a few different types. I'm about to tackle mine as well and don't want to suffer any more frustration than necessary.

Scott

This is the one I bought, have had no issues

Shim Valve Tool link on eBay

[Guest]

This is the one I bought, have had no issues

Shim Valve Tool link on eBay

Two thoughts: I'm going to reveal my complete lack of knowledge about adjusting valves, but does your 450 have the same type of valve adjusting mechanism as my 850? And two: assuming it does, if you're done using yours and would just as soon sell it, I'll buy it from you. Let me know what you think.

Scott

[Blue Falcon]

Two thoughts: I'm going to reveal my complete lack of knowledge about adjusting valves, but does your 450 have the same type of valve adjusting mechanism as my 850? And two: assuming it does, if you're done using yours and would just as soon sell it, I'll buy it from you. Let me know what you think.

Scott

same part for the tool.. You need to read for about 10 minutes to understand how to adjust valves for a shim over bucket, there is even videos very explanatory on youtube. Having the tool is a good thing, I have had to do my valves 4 times here recently. Even bought a NOS shim kit off ebay. I don't need the bike shop for something this easy.

BIKE CLIFF VALVE ADJUSTMENT

since you are new

bikecliff website

[Guest]

same part for the tool.. You need to read for about 10 minutes to understand how to adjust valves for a shim over bucket, there is even videos very explanatory on youtube. Having the tool is a good thing, I have had to do my valves 4 times here recently. Even bought a NOS shim kit off ebay. I don't need the bike shop for something this easy.

BIKE CLIFF VALVE ADJUSTMENT

since you are new

bikecliff website

Yup. I've already saved that tutorial and read most of it. I'll be sure to read the whole thing a couple of times before I dig into this job.

So I'm assuming that when I get in there, I'll find that most of the shims are already correct, but that a small number of them may need to be replaced. How do I know which ones to buy? I know about the thickness, but do I also have to specify the diameter? Any other parameters I haven't thought of?

[cowboyup3371]

Yup. I've already saved that tutorial and read most of it. I'll be sure to read the whole thing a couple of times before I dig into this job.

So I'm assuming that when I get in there, I'll find that most of the shims are already correct, but that a small number of them may need to be replaced. How do I know which ones to buy? I know about the thickness, but do I also have to specify the diameter? Any other parameters I haven't thought of?

Have you emailed Steve, name and username, for his spreadsheet yet? Look him up and send him an email. Then check out the GS Shim Club in the Services section

[Guest]

Have you emailed Steve, name and username, for his spreadsheet yet? Look him up and send him an email. Then check out the GS Shim Club in the Services section

Yes, Steve sent me his spread sheet tonight, though I haven't looked at it very closely yet. I suppose I should do so, huh?

[Blue Falcon]

Yup. I've already saved that tutorial and read most of it. I'll be sure to read the whole thing a couple of times before I dig into this job.

So I'm assuming that when I get in there, I'll find that most of the shims are already correct, but that a small number of them may need to be replaced. How do I know which ones to buy? I know about the thickness, but do I also have to specify the diameter? Any other parameters I haven't thought of?

download the manual from bikecliff for your bike, tolerance should be .03-.08, closer to .08 is better. lets say you measure and the biggest feeler gauge you can get in is a .038 and it is tight, tool the bucket, pull the shim out and look at the back side for its size... lets say it is a 2.60, you would want to put a 2.55 in its place. That would increase the gap which is what you want. put the shim in, remove the tool and rotate the crank a couple times, check the clearance again and the biggest feeler you can fit in is the .076 ... you are good. Valves tighten over time you are safe on the looser end of the spectrum. If your bike hasn't been run regularly in a while, I would treat this just like the break in period and go by the maintenance schedule like it was new.. my 450 sat for 4 years at least... I have had to do 4 valve adjustments in roughly 3000 miles... knocked all the carbon and gunk off the valves.

FYI 29.5 mm is the diameter on our older suzuki shims, you just need the thickness, getting a caliper will help and comes in handy on other measurements like float level in the carbs... suggest you get one.

[Blue Falcon]

put a Shinko 712 rear tire on my bike today....... JESUS...... that was an endeavor. and by putting it on I mean doing it all myself. I will say it took longer to get the old IRC tire off than it did to get the new tire on. I had to use diagonal cutters to cut the wire in the rim edge of the tire.......spoons wouldn't get it off, it simply would not budge. Thankfully with a little soapy water ( plain old soap, nothing fancy ) , the new tire slid right on with the spoons.... If you plan on removing and mounting your own tires .... BUY THE 3 SPOON KIT!!!!! Was too dark to get her up to speed tonight, will shake the GS450 down tomorrow and see if she wobbles.

FYI from a bike shop owner who recently closed his business of 40+ years...was handed down from his dad... not because business was bad, because he got 2.2 million USD for the land his shop was on, he is 50+ and wants to do nothing all day.... " If a bike has spoke rims...it has tubes, I have been putting tubes in tubeless tires for 30+ years, just make sure you have a good rim strip and heavy duty tubes, if its on a non spoke rim, still use a rim strip and good tubes. " He also said that computer balance on every day riding bikes is BS, do it yourself with stick on weights from NAPA. If you are racing, then get the computer balance. " unless you are driving 120mph day in and day out.. no need for computer balance. "

[Guest]

I'm a big enough of a wuss to pay somebody else to mount my tires for me. I don't have the tools, facilities or experience to do it myself either, and I really want to avoid the headache. I'm glad to see you chose Shinko; I had never heard of that brand before I posted a thread a few weeks ago looking for suggestions for tire brands. The consensus was that Shinkos were a cheap, but good, choice. When I get around to replacing the tires on my bike, I'll go with Shinkos.

Let us know how the wobbling/balance thing turns out after you've had a chance to ride. Cheers!

[ddaniels]

Pulled the carbs today, getting ready for a rebuild kit and some cleaning. Also pulled the clutch slave cylinder getting ready to rebuild it too. It's leaking.

[Guest]

Yesterday (Sunday) was kind of a big day for me. I fixed the front brake light switch! I'm sure that sounds pretty minor, but the last person to touch that switch was the PO, and he had installed it backwards. With nothing to consult, it took me a while to figure that out (it actually looks more correct installed backwards than it does forwards). I also learned the to adjust the sensitivity, you slide the little circuit board back and forth/left and right. Pretty weak design if you ask me. So that was one more small step in putting the bike back "right".

[gordinho80]

I've had issues with my front brake light switch since I bought my bike. I've already replaced it twice and I can never seem to get it right. Last time, it stays switched and the brake light stays on unless you fiddle with the lever.

[Charlie G]

I'm a big enough of a wuss to pay somebody else to mount my tires for me. I don't have the tools, facilities or experience to do it myself either, and I really want to avoid the headache. I'm glad to see you chose Shinko; I had never heard of that brand before I posted a thread a few weeks ago looking for suggestions for tire brands. The consensus was that Shinkos were a cheap, but good, choice. When I get around to replacing the tires on my bike, I'll go with Shinkos.

Let us know how the wobbling/balance thing turns out after you've had a chance to ride. Cheers!

I have always had someone else install my tires and I was ok with that. I retired last summer and I realized that it is costing me about $130 per set to have them installed. A motorcycle tire changer at Harbor Frieght is about $40-$80 .I plan on buying or making one before I need a new rear this summer. My limiting factor in fixing old bikes is cash for parts. I'll change my own tires and buy new brake lines or fork springs. I usually buy 2 tires a year.

Argee the the front brake light is a pos, cheap part. Mine seem to work fine dispite what those who follow me say!

[Blue Falcon]

I'm a big enough of a wuss to pay somebody else to mount my tires for me. I don't have the tools, facilities or experience to do it myself either, and I really want to avoid the headache. I'm glad to see you chose Shinko; I had never heard of that brand before I posted a thread a few weeks ago looking for suggestions for tire brands. The consensus was that Shinkos were a cheap, but good, choice. When I get around to replacing the tires on my bike, I'll go with Shinkos.

Let us know how the wobbling/balance thing turns out after you've had a chance to ride. Cheers!

I posted a review in the Tire/Suspension forum of the back tire, will post front when it comes in.