But I suppose at 525lbs, it's worth showing off
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Working on the DRz 400 today. The petcock failed and filled the crankcase with gas (sound familiar?)
Oil/gas is drained, drain plugs. fillers, filter, spark plug all open to the air to purge as much of the little bit of fuel as possible
Now to get those effin crush washers off the drain plugs and put the new ones on. Somebody over torqued them and smashed them onto the bolts
Edit- mission accomplished and it ran uninterrupted for 10 minutes! for the first time in months (it would stall after about a mile prior to that)Last edited by Big T; 01-09-2018, 07:20 PM.1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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I had a new to me occurrence today. A bike the shop sold last week, a '07 GSXR600 with leds every where even the wheels and an amp with speakers, came back because the new owner said it shut down on him going 60. I turn the key and nothing. I check the fuses and all are good, so I look at the main fuse on the starter solenoid. BINGO! Blown fuse. Replace it with another 30 amp fuse and pop. I smell some burnt wire, but I didn't see the smoke. Try another fuse and pop, but this time I see some smoke up at the right front. Near where one of the speakers are mounted, but I don't see melted wires.
So I figure I'll pull all the fuses and put them back in one at a time until I pop another main. I also disconnect any extra wires that are attached to the battery. Put another 30 amp fuse in the main, see the gauge needle rotate and pop. No smoke. I still don't see any melted wires, so I disconnect the four wire connector off the solenoid. It has two red power wires and two bk/y wires that are for the starter button. I try all for for continuity to the negative battery terminal. I get continuity at both red wires, not good. It eliminated the starter control, but that means it can be anywhere in the harness if it melted wires.
According to the wiring diagram the red wires tie into each other, go to the R/R, and the turn signal control. I try the R/R connector and no continuity, hook it back up and buzz. Disconnect, nothing, reconnect and buzz. It's something in the R/R. Told the boss and he gave me a new R/R and when I hooked it into the harness and installed a new fuse all was good again. So in the morning I have to mount the new R/R, but I also need to see where the smoke came from. Something melted. It could be the wires coming out of the old R/R(I hope) or something else where. The R/R on these bikes are mounted on the left side, not where I saw the smoke.:cool:GSRick
No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.
Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.
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Originally posted by gsrick View PostI had a new to me occurrence today. A bike the shop sold last week, a '07 GSXR600 with leds every where even the wheels and an amp with speakers, came back because the new owner said it shut down on him going 60. I turn the key and nothing. I check the fuses and all are good, so I look at the main fuse on the starter solenoid. BINGO! Blown fuse. Replace it with another 30 amp fuse and pop. I smell some burnt wire, but I didn't see the smoke. Try another fuse and pop, but this time I see some smoke up at the right front. Near where one of the speakers are mounted, but I don't see melted wires.
So I figure I'll pull all the fuses and put them back in one at a time until I pop another main. I also disconnect any extra wires that are attached to the battery. Put another 30 amp fuse in the main, see the gauge needle rotate and pop. No smoke. I still don't see any melted wires, so I disconnect the four wire connector off the solenoid. It has two red power wires and two bk/y wires that are for the starter button. I try all for for continuity to the negative battery terminal. I get continuity at both red wires, not good. It eliminated the starter control, but that means it can be anywhere in the harness if it melted wires.
According to the wiring diagram the red wires tie into each other, go to the R/R, and the turn signal control. I try the R/R connector and no continuity, hook it back up and buzz. Disconnect, nothing, reconnect and buzz. It's something in the R/R. Told the boss and he gave me a new R/R and when I hooked it into the harness and installed a new fuse all was good again. So in the morning I have to mount the new R/R, but I also need to see where the smoke came from. Something melted. It could be the wires coming out of the old R/R(I hope) or something else where. The R/R on these bikes are mounted on the left side, not where I saw the smoke.#1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
#2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
#3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
#4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill
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Roeme, It' Florida. Weird people down there, they stretch and slam their sport bikes due to a lack of curves. Add on a bunch of LEDs to light up their bikes,etc1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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Yamaha CDC-635 multidisc CD player
well, did not use a wrench.
Did use phillips screw driver and some needlenose pliers arr arr.
CD player Had not worked at all last few months.
And for years prior to that the table would not always drive out and/or in, might have to push or pull it.
Today took off the cover and found a CD under the table, at the position of the player.
THen took apart some more stuff and find a drive belt is real loose.
Hey, poked around in my shop and the "junk drawer" and found a rubber band that was about twice too long and maybe half too thin.
So doubled it over, and whaa-laaa
All good now.
Did find an actaull proper replacement online.Last edited by Redman; 01-31-2018, 01:39 AM.http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl
https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4
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Went for a ride on the ' 84 GS1100GK in the morning as it was expected to get to 37 deg C. So a bit hot, I came back and parked in shed, went back out a few hours later could smell fuel.. mm... bit damp around carby and on gear lever, fuel coming out of airbox drain hose. The dreaded petcock failure. haha
Took tank off, leaking fuel, out of tap no matter what position. Sat tank tilted with can under one side.
Checked nearest Suzuki dealer. In stock $80 AU.
Next morning rode the other '85 GS1100GK up, checked out some nice old Katanas and a one owner red 1980 gs1000 that looked mint.
Back home fitted new fuel tap. Perfect. I did almost think of buying a rebuild kit but stuff it.
Why waste my time when they don't always work and the metal parts are worn anyway.gs1100gk 1985 (x 2)
gs850g 1980
Previously owned
gs1100gk 1984(just sold).
gs850g x 2 '79, '80, gs1100gk x 2 '84, '85, gs1000 '78, gs1100g '82, gr650 '82, Buell x 2 '99 & '09, Harley xlch '65, Yam vmax '95, FJ1100 '82, Honda 500/4 '74, Kwaka z250 '80...
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Rear brake was weak, unable to lock the rear wheel. Discovered the outer piston was stuck (dual pistons). Freed the piston by rotating it while applying fluid pressure. Then bled both front and rear brakes.
"Johnny the boy has done it again... This time its a scrubber"
Dazza from Kiwiland
GSX1100SXZ, GSX750SZ, GS650GZ All Katanas, all 1982
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2 firsts
Rebuilt the rear wheel off my 1000. Never built a wheel before and never real polished aluminum before either. Turns out both were pretty easy, hardest part was actually getting all the old clear coat off and prepping for polishing. Lacing the wheel only took about 1 1/2 hours start to finish and once assembled only took minor truing and is actually truer than when I started. Run out in both directions is only about 0.05mm and spec I think 2.0mm. Now to take over to a buddies who has done lots of wheels to check my work ......never hurts to have a second opinion and also order spokes for the front.
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by soates50, on Flickr'84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35860327946_08fdd555ac_z.jpg
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Guest
Make sure you apply something to that beautiful newly-polished aluminum, which is now bare and quite vulnerable to the elements!
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Originally posted by Sandy View PostRebuilt the rear wheel off my 1000. Never built a wheel before and never real polished aluminum before either. Turns out both were pretty easy, hardest part was actually getting all the old clear coat off and prepping for polishing. Lacing the wheel only took about 1 1/2 hours start to finish and once assembled only took minor truing and is actually truer than when I started. Run out in both directions is only about 0.05mm and spec I think 2.0mm. Now to take over to a buddies who has done lots of wheels to check my work ......never hurts to have a second opinion and also order spokes for the front.
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by soates50, on Flickrsigpic
83 GS1100g
2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050
Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren
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Aphex
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Aphex
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