what did you wrench on today??

[Burque73]

It took some searching but I found the little piece of the broken spring.



I pulled the water pump and clutch cover to fish around in the case with a magnet. After about an hour of bending and stabbing that magnet in every place it would fit, I saw the blasted piece of spring on the floor under the bike. Must have fallen out when I pulled the cover. That would have bugged me to no end, not finding the piece. It's all good though. I got to clean the oil screen, adjust my rear brake, and pull the foot peg bolts to upgrade while they're off.

This screen was covered in all sorts of gunk. Good to go now!



I got the engine closed up tonight with the new tensioner lever (doohickey) and torsion spring installed. Next on the agenda, sub frame bolt upgrade.

[dorkburger]

Regarding the spring hook... I once posted a thread here called "When parts run and hide" after the same frustration of searching for a dropped fork spring washer.....

Continued slowly wrapping the weekends work last night. Since one coil was removed for valve cover removal, I figured I'd check the plug wire and cap connections on both coils. The rubber seals on three of the plug caps (one was replaced) are cooked and no longer seal the water out, which is likely why the bike never starts after washing the engine. The springs and resistors inside of the caps showed a bit of corrosion which was cleaned. Need to order those seals.

Then of course I mixed up the wires. Knowing my tendency to do these things I had previously labelled the plug wires with paint marker... which had worn off.

Consulted manual to find more interesting info. Early 1150s had the coils oriented with the plug wires facing the rear of the bike. The manual's addendum showing 85 and on modifications show the coils with the plug wire facing forward. I've had them on both ways, evidently depending on what drawing I've looked at then questioned my "skills"..... at this point I may need to blame all issues on the PO..... present owner

[ddaniels]

It took some searching but I found the little piece of the broken spring.



I pulled the water pump and clutch cover to fish around in the case with a magnet. After about an hour of bending and stabbing that magnet in every place it would fit, I saw the blasted piece of spring on the floor under the bike. Must have fallen out when I pulled the cover. That would have bugged me to no end, not finding the piece. It's all good though. I got to clean the oil screen, adjust my rear brake, and pull the foot peg bolts to upgrade while they're off.

This screen was covered in all sorts of gunk. Good to go now!



I got the engine closed up tonight with the new tensioner lever (doohickey) and torsion spring installed. Next on the agenda, sub frame bolt upgrade.

Don't feel bad. No doubt something like this has happened to most of us.

[Aaronaka]

Worked on my GS850 today, after being stored away for the winter I decided to pull it out and get it ready, filled the tank and she fired right up, idles perfectly, but now under load or not between 4000 to 5000 rpms she bogs down and loses power. Pulled the carbs cleaned and balanced them when I reinstalled still have the issue. So more wrenching in my future.

[themess]

I want to change the differential lube in a 96 Astro, before towing a U-Haul 100 miles with my Wee Strom in it. First step: Remove the plug needed to fill it. (Don't drain unless I can refill it!). 3/8" drive tip acted as if it was rounding off the depression inside the plug. End to that attempt. It will have to wait until I can get better access.

How else would this come out? I doubt that drilling and retapping the housing would work.

[Skinner]

Removed, disassembled and reassembled the cam chain tensioner (while the carbs are still on the bike - a serious pain in the butt). It turns out the PO had installed the tensioner spring incorrectly so it wasn't working properly. Also installed a new OEM petcock.

[ddaniels]

Before......
20180320_152918.jpg

[ddaniels]

After...
20180320_152918.jpg

[ddaniels]

Well, that was the wrong pic. Try this one.
20180412_220222-1-1.jpg

[ddaniels]

Old man conversion complete.
20180412_220157-1-1.jpg

[Burque73]

That looks more comfy. Did all the cables fit?

............

Old man conversion complete.

[cowboyup3371]

Hey Dave, I'm thinking of getting the same risers for the Bandit; did you pick them up locally or order them from somewhere? How did you figure out the cable lengths you needed?

I'm thinking of getting the holeshot handlebar set that comes with the right length cables for the bike already included based on what I see on his website

[dorkburger]

Nice. Looks good and seems to offer a lot of adjustment.

I did the obligatory post valve adjustment carb synch. This would be my third or fourth go at it, and it went pretty smoothly. I'm still using a mercury type, and the hoses it came with sucked. Very hard yet would soften up at the synch port fitting. I had a roll of high temp silicone type hose so I replaced the originals with that.... nice.
Bike starts easy and seems smoother. It also turns out that my coil lead wires were reversed. Maybe that has something to do with it as well.

Two warm days coming up, then sh1t again. Hopefully I can get a test ride....

[Guest]

Dave...... so the risers you installed a couple of weeks ago weren't enough? Is this setup better?

As for what I wrenched on, I got the rear brake of my Honda put back together - and it works! I took a while to figure out how the dust boot was supposed to go, but I eventually figured it out with Mr. Steve's help. Thanks Steve! And speaking of my Honda, it sold a few days ago to a guy in S. Carolina, so now he can begin the process of getting it shipped to him. He's going to use U-Ship on my recommendation.

[ddaniels]

That looks more comfy. Did all the cables fit?

WAAAAY more comfy! As for the cables - The kit came with a longer brake hose which was fine with JUST the LSL risers, but with the swivel risers added (black) to the mix, it was too short. Thankfully, I had already had a longer brake hose made up locally which is long enough. Getting tired of bleeding brakes! The kit also came with a longer "choke" cable. I had to reroute everything else in front of the forks, and reroute the throttle cables through the right side frame hole instead of the left.

Scott (cowboy), I ordered the LSL from somewhere else (Stunt Factory) online because they were cheaper and also offered the option of black coated brake line and black brake line fittings. Spieglar, here in town was about $80 more, but after the extra expense of black line (which I didn't use doh!) and shipping cost, it was almost a wash. Didn't do any figuring on cable lengths. Just played it by ear. The brake line I had made locally at the Parker Store I had made 6" longer than stock when I was installing the ConvertiBar kit I tried first, which was (is) a bit too long really.

Scott (MiGuy), I wasn't satisfied with the ConvertiBar setup. Even though the bars were higher, they were still too far forward and were hitting the windshield at full turn. This new setup with the LSL conversion and the pivot risers puts me ALMOST at the same upper body angle as on the GSX1100G. The pivot risers are copies of the ROX risers but much cheaper. $20 off EBAY.