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    I sanded the connectors in my right switch gear. Apparently my issue was not related to bad contacts, but rather a blown fuse (I replaced all five fuses too). Now I just need to re-solder the wire I disconnected to ride home and reassemble and I am back in buisness.

    I will spray it down with some dielectric grease to hopefully prevent more corrosion (it was pretty corroded).

    I feel somewhat dumb for thinking it was the killswitch and not thinking of the fuses. If I guessed the fuses first I could have just stuck a key into the slot and rode home.

    Considering getting an Amplink by Rowe Electronics to make the electrical things more sensical.
    GS1000G 1981

    Comment


      Fitted an improved air intake and filter.
      I realised that I don't have a seperate thread to document all the various things that have cropped up over the years, so this will do. I'll populate it with whatever photographic material I have from doing repair work in the past decade or so, and even before that, though pics from the 80s, 90s and even the 2000s are few and
      ---- Dave

      Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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        I've found my motorcycle restoration experience very useful in the MTB realm. My son rides the wheels off his, 30 mile days a few times a week is the norm, so he keeps me busy. With experience he crashes less and gets more life out of tires and brakes, it seems. I'm changing tires, pads, straightening derailleur hangers, and adjusting things much less per (his) mile.

        I'm well stuck into the CB750, it's now down to basic elements and lots of parts on the way. Since I made a tidy profit on selling my Goldwings I got for free, I justify all the new parts - forks, repro seat, rings, gaskets, tires, etc. This bike is going to be very nice, I'm not cutting corners.

        Originally posted by dorkburger View Post
        Worked on the mountain bike today. With all of the use its been getting lately stuff is coming loose. Rear bearings last week, headstock tonight. Pulled off the forks, cleaned and regreased the bearings. There's still a touch of play I need to tighten up, but the motorbike was calling....
        Tom

        '82 GS1100E Mr. Turbo
        '79 GS100E
        Other non Suzuki bikes

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          How to do an oil change in many steps.....
          Load a big pile of scrap metal into the car.
          Sweat.
          Drain the bike's oil.
          Sweat.
          Remove the oil cooler to make room to work due to the dumb, yet awesome Yoshi header.
          Sweat some more.
          Remove filter cover and sneak filter out between the narrow gap of the center header tubes.
          More sweat- now mixed with oil on arms.
          Put everything back together.
          Shirt is fairly wet by now.
          Shower, sleep.
          Wake up, drink coffee while waiting for the scrapyard to open.
          Go to scrapyard, get cash for oil and gas.
          Buy oil.
          Fill bike with oil.


          Simple
          sigpic
          When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

          Glen
          -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
          -Rusty old scooter.
          Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
          https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
          https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

          Comment


            Today I rode the bike to my grandparents garage after soldering the wires back into the right hand switch gear. I couldnt get the assembly quite right, so its a bit lose (the hole switch assembly flips down).

            I started by emptying the old oil out while it was warm. It seems the washer for the oil drain plug is stuck to the plug, not sure how to proced about that (replace the drain plug and get a copper washer maybe?).

            Then I removed the oil filter cover, and removed the studs. The studs had messed up threads on the tips. Doing the two nut trick was almost impossible, I couldnt get the new nuts to grip the threads. Luckily I realized I could just take one of the old acorn nuts, and then screw it on until the top popped and used that (the old acorn nuts had equally messed up threads as the studs, so they somehow got grip?) and an intact acorn nut. Got all the studs out. Got two new studs in before I went home. Since I now have the teqnique I am confident putting in the last one will be fine. Hopefully then more oil stays inside the bike.

            I removed the rear suspension, was pretty straightforward. Loosened the locking nut for the axle thing, it was quite easy.

            I removed the brake pads, they were WORN.

            Trying to remove the torque arm bolt I messed up (I didnt realize it had a cotter pin, arrgh), so its slightly damaged. I couldnt find a 14mm cup (I could find every other size though) so I couldnt get it off. Not sure how to proced about that. But I think I can just remove the other bolts, tie the caliper to something, and just slide it up. And then remove the wheel without removing the caliper.
            GS1000G 1981

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              Use a dental pick or similar to work your way around/under the crush washer, it will come off. Then replace it with a new one to ensure you don't have any leaks
              Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

              1981 GS550T - My First
              1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
              2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

              Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
              Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
              and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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                I got a $15 manicure set for my funky old man feet off Amazon annd I've used 3x as much in my garage. Just passing along. Very good quality!




                Originally posted by cowboyup3371 View Post
                Use a dental pick or similar to work your way around/under the crush washer, it will come off. Then replace it with a new one to ensure you don't have any leaks
                Tom

                '82 GS1100E Mr. Turbo
                '79 GS100E
                Other non Suzuki bikes

                Comment


                  I got my tyre off! The caliper can be stuck to the torque arm and you can still remove the wheel.

                  But the brake rotor is stuck...

                  Wonder if brake cleaner would penetrate between rim and disc...
                  GS1000G 1981

                  Comment


                    Did you bend the folded up locking tabs down away from the Nuts that fasten the rotor to the wheel. See #15 on this front wheel diagram.


                    or #22 on this rear wheel diagram.


                    Brake cleaner is more likely to squirt back at your eyeball than penetrate a stuck bolt’s thread. Try a penetrating fluid like PB blaster. Not sure what’s available in Norway.
                    Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 07-19-2020, 11:46 AM.
                    Rich
                    1982 GS 750TZ
                    2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

                    BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
                    Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
                      Did you bend the folded up locking tabs down away from the Nuts that fasten the rotor to the wheel. See #15 on this front wheel diagram.


                      or #22 on this rear wheel diagram.


                      Brake cleaner is more likely to squirt back at your eyeball than penetrate a stuck bolt’s thread. Try a penetrating fluid like PB blaster. Not sure what’s available in Norway.
                      I don't have that on any of my wheels. They have acorn nuts and copper washers in the back. And acorn nuts and steel washers in the front.

                      I got the nuts of, but the disc itself was stuck. I found a loooong weird metal hammer (think its for getting bolts in the ground for party tents). I put a workers glove on the rotor and whacked it. Moved it around in a X position doing opposite sides. A few solid whacks and it was loose.

                      I think I have found a penetrating fluid at one of the stores, it supposedly cools, and penetrates. I have no idea if that works (WD40 seems to just squirt back into my eyes...). When using brake cleaner Im usually more carefull so that rarely hits me.

                      See pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/ry7xvHM

                      I also got all the studs in, and got the new oil filter cover on Hope it doesn't leak now. I can't test because I need an oil drain washer.
                      GS1000G 1981

                      Comment


                        Best to just continue this in the other thread you started for it. You have people trying to help with your same issue in 2 different treads.
                        Rich
                        1982 GS 750TZ
                        2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

                        BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
                        Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
                          Best to just continue this in the other thread you started for it. You have people trying to help with your same issue in 2 different treads.
                          I agree. I just were posting about my wrenching.

                          What Im mostly pleased with it me managing to replace the studs, washers, cover and acorn nuts for the oil filter:



                          Luckily only the outter part (the very end) of the studs were damaged. So I believe the inside of the engine is fine. I have no idea how they got so damaged, but I believe my issues with reattaching it was caused by the useless studs and acorn nuts.

                          Now its all cured. Changing the cover were probaly not necessary, but look how nice and shiny it is! And it lacks that annoying circle I didnt know where to place.
                          GS1000G 1981

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Noreg View Post
                            I also got all the studs in, and got the new oil filter cover on Hope it doesn't leak now. I can't test because I need an oil drain washer.
                            Usually the old one can be reused, oldskool like.
                            If it is not terribly damaged, sand both sides flat by sliding it
                            on a piece of sanding paper.
                            Next, hang the washer on a piece of metal wire and heat it until it glows red.
                            Drop it in water and clean it.

                            Good to go.
                            Rijk

                            Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

                            CV Carb rebuild tutorial
                            VM Carb rebuild tutorial
                            Bikecliff's website
                            The Stator Papers

                            "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by Rijko View Post
                              Usually the old one can be reused, oldskool like.
                              If it is not terribly damaged, sand both sides flat by sliding it
                              on a piece of sanding paper.
                              Next, hang the washer on a piece of metal wire and heat it until it glows red.
                              Drop it in water and clean it.

                              Good to go.
                              I doubt the washers were damaged, but I lost one last filter change, so I got 6 so I would have some for a while.

                              The old cover honestly looked fine, functionally wise. I cant see any obvious damage. But it wasn't shiny.

                              What is the purpose of heating the washer and dropping it in water?
                              GS1000G 1981

                              Comment


                                It's called tempering.

                                Softens and toughens the copper so it will deform enough to
                                seal when tightened.
                                Rijk

                                Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

                                CV Carb rebuild tutorial
                                VM Carb rebuild tutorial
                                Bikecliff's website
                                The Stator Papers

                                "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

                                Comment

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