what did you wrench on today??

[Noreg]

I sanded the connectors in my right switch gear. Apparently my issue was not related to bad contacts, but rather a blown fuse (I replaced all five fuses too). Now I just need to re-solder the wire I disconnected to ride home and reassemble and I am back in buisness.

I will spray it down with some dielectric grease to hopefully prevent more corrosion (it was pretty corroded).

I feel somewhat dumb for thinking it was the killswitch and not thinking of the fuses. If I guessed the fuses first I could have just stuck a key into the slot and rode home.

Considering getting an Amplink by Rowe Electronics to make the electrical things more sensical.

[Grimly]

Fitted an improved air intake and filter.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?257702-My-GS850G-ongoing-issues-and-maintenance&p=2614661#post2614661

[oldGSfan]

I've found my motorcycle restoration experience very useful in the MTB realm. My son rides the wheels off his, 30 mile days a few times a week is the norm, so he keeps me busy. With experience he crashes less and gets more life out of tires and brakes, it seems. I'm changing tires, pads, straightening derailleur hangers, and adjusting things much less per (his) mile.

I'm well stuck into the CB750, it's now down to basic elements and lots of parts on the way. Since I made a tidy profit on selling my Goldwings I got for free, I justify all the new parts - forks, repro seat, rings, gaskets, tires, etc. This bike is going to be very nice, I'm not cutting corners.

Worked on the mountain bike today. With all of the use its been getting lately stuff is coming loose. Rear bearings last week, headstock tonight. Pulled off the forks, cleaned and regreased the bearings. There's still a touch of play I need to tighten up, but the motorbike was calling....

[dorkburger]

How to do an oil change in many steps.....
Load a big pile of scrap metal into the car.
Sweat.
Drain the bike's oil.
Sweat.
Remove the oil cooler to make room to work due to the dumb, yet awesome Yoshi header.
Sweat some more.
Remove filter cover and sneak filter out between the narrow gap of the center header tubes.
More sweat- now mixed with oil on arms.
Put everything back together.
Shirt is fairly wet by now.
Shower, sleep.
Wake up, drink coffee while waiting for the scrapyard to open.
Go to scrapyard, get cash for oil and gas.
Buy oil.
Fill bike with oil.


Simple

[Noreg]

Today I rode the bike to my grandparents garage after soldering the wires back into the right hand switch gear. I couldnt get the assembly quite right, so its a bit lose (the hole switch assembly flips down).

I started by emptying the old oil out while it was warm. It seems the washer for the oil drain plug is stuck to the plug, not sure how to proced about that (replace the drain plug and get a copper washer maybe?).

Then I removed the oil filter cover, and removed the studs. The studs had messed up threads on the tips. Doing the two nut trick was almost impossible, I couldnt get the new nuts to grip the threads. Luckily I realized I could just take one of the old acorn nuts, and then screw it on until the top popped and used that (the old acorn nuts had equally messed up threads as the studs, so they somehow got grip?) and an intact acorn nut. Got all the studs out. Got two new studs in before I went home. Since I now have the teqnique I am confident putting in the last one will be fine. Hopefully then more oil stays inside the bike.

I removed the rear suspension, was pretty straightforward. Loosened the locking nut for the axle thing, it was quite easy.

I removed the brake pads, they were WORN.

Trying to remove the torque arm bolt I messed up (I didnt realize it had a cotter pin, arrgh), so its slightly damaged. I couldnt find a 14mm cup (I could find every other size though) so I couldnt get it off. Not sure how to proced about that. But I think I can just remove the other bolts, tie the caliper to something, and just slide it up. And then remove the wheel without removing the caliper.

[cowboyup3371]

Use a dental pick or similar to work your way around/under the crush washer, it will come off. Then replace it with a new one to ensure you don't have any leaks

[oldGSfan]

I got a $15 manicure set for my funky old man feet off Amazon annd I've used 3x as much in my garage. Just passing along. Very good quality!

Use a dental pick or similar to work your way around/under the crush washer, it will come off. Then replace it with a new one to ensure you don't have any leaks

[Noreg]

I got my tyre off! The caliper can be stuck to the torque arm and you can still remove the wheel.

But the brake rotor is stuck...

Wonder if brake cleaner would penetrate between rim and disc...

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Did you bend the folded up locking tabs down away from the Nuts that fasten the rotor to the wheel. See #15 on this front wheel diagram.


or #22 on this rear wheel diagram.


Brake cleaner is more likely to squirt back at your eyeball than penetrate a stuck bolt’s thread. Try a penetrating fluid like PB blaster. Not sure what’s available in Norway.

[Noreg]

Did you bend the folded up locking tabs down away from the Nuts that fasten the rotor to the wheel. See #15 on this front wheel diagram.


or #22 on this rear wheel diagram.


Brake cleaner is more likely to squirt back at your eyeball than penetrate a stuck bolt’s thread. Try a penetrating fluid like PB blaster. Not sure what’s available in Norway.

I don't have that on any of my wheels. They have acorn nuts and copper washers in the back. And acorn nuts and steel washers in the front.

I got the nuts of, but the disc itself was stuck. I found a loooong weird metal hammer (think its for getting bolts in the ground for party tents). I put a workers glove on the rotor and whacked it. Moved it around in a X position doing opposite sides. A few solid whacks and it was loose.

I think I have found a penetrating fluid at one of the stores, it supposedly cools, and penetrates. I have no idea if that works (WD40 seems to just squirt back into my eyes...). When using brake cleaner Im usually more carefull so that rarely hits me.

See pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/ry7xvHM

I also got all the studs in, and got the new oil filter cover on Hope it doesn't leak now. I can't test because I need an oil drain washer.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Best to just continue this in the other thread you started for it. You have people trying to help with your same issue in 2 different treads.

[Noreg]

Best to just continue this in the other thread you started for it. You have people trying to help with your same issue in 2 different treads.

I agree. I just were posting about my wrenching.

What Im mostly pleased with it me managing to replace the studs, washers, cover and acorn nuts for the oil filter:



Luckily only the outter part (the very end) of the studs were damaged. So I believe the inside of the engine is fine. I have no idea how they got so damaged, but I believe my issues with reattaching it was caused by the useless studs and acorn nuts.

Now its all cured. Changing the cover were probaly not necessary, but look how nice and shiny it is! And it lacks that annoying circle I didnt know where to place.

[Rijko]

I also got all the studs in, and got the new oil filter cover on Hope it doesn't leak now. I can't test because I need an oil drain washer.

Usually the old one can be reused, oldskool like.
If it is not terribly damaged, sand both sides flat by sliding it
on a piece of sanding paper.
Next, hang the washer on a piece of metal wire and heat it until it glows red.
Drop it in water and clean it.

Good to go.

[Noreg]

Usually the old one can be reused, oldskool like.
If it is not terribly damaged, sand both sides flat by sliding it
on a piece of sanding paper.
Next, hang the washer on a piece of metal wire and heat it until it glows red.
Drop it in water and clean it.

Good to go.

I doubt the washers were damaged, but I lost one last filter change, so I got 6 so I would have some for a while.

The old cover honestly looked fine, functionally wise. I cant see any obvious damage. But it wasn't shiny.

What is the purpose of heating the washer and dropping it in water?

[Rijko]

It's called tempering.

Softens and toughens the copper so it will deform enough to
seal when tightened.