what did you wrench on today??

[Buffalo Bill]

No disrespect Bill but you might want to do some more research on how to safety wire. There is an FAA standard which is a great place to start. If you can't get a copy of that standard I may be able to help.

Do you have a pair of wire twisting pliers? Your twist isn't tight enough and some good pliers will help. Also, your pull angle should be as close to 90 degrees as possible (3 o'clock). Your pull angle looks like 5 o'clock. The bolt can back off the way you have them wired.

Thanks, all that is true. Mostly I did a lazy job, did not want to do the extra work of taking the exhaust off for better access.
The tech inspection for track days is casual, because I'm only in the mid level. If I ever get into actual racing (time and money), I will have to do a much better job to the level of your suggestions.
I have the twisting pliers thanks. I'd like to get some of those proper SS safety pins too.
Another project I wanna do this spring is fabricating a belly pan. Ground clearance and clearance for the kick stand will be a challenge.

[GS1150Pilot]

I spent some time identifying a minor rocker box seep and giving the bike a once over to tighten anything that needed it.

The heads are coming back off this summer to go to Shortblock Charlie's for their Scotsman service. Hotter cams are going in then, too.

[GregT]

Made some progress on the GS1000 racebike today. It was dropped off to me a couple of months ago - when i was undergoing radiation therapy - as a distraction.
It's not been used for around 5 years now. The owner/rider got sick then surrounded himself with kids...as you do.
So it needed reshimming, a general going over and an oil and filter change.
I'd done the reshim a couple of weeks ago but hadn't had the energy to do more since.
It uses stock buckets, ground flat on top - they're hardened right through - Nissan SR20 aftermarket titanium retainers machined for the GS collets and 10mm dia shims. I doubt you could get any lighter. Aftermarket springs, big stainless valves and locally ground cams - quite big....
So today i hooked up the aux battery - it has a plug in lead for the first start of the day - and warmed it through.
Dropped the pipe for access and dropped the warm oil. The pipe has rusted a bit so is going for gritblasting and will be repainted.
The adaptor on the tank for a remote tap has always had a slight ooze. Looks like one of the brass barbed fittings is cracked. I'll source another next week.

I'll take issue with Nessism re safety wiring. Aircraft standards don't apply. I've had this argument with scrutineers - juniors, I'm a very senior one myself.
The wiring is there to tell you when it's moved. 20gauge stainless won't hold a bolt that is torqued up to 20 ft/lb plus if it comes loose. It's also a useful indication of how much time has been spent on preparation. To make a point, I have in some cases used copper wire as nowhere in our rules is it specified what to use.
Oil filter wiring is much better done with a hoseclip around the body, wired back to the frame or something adjacent. GS style with nuts, I use 6mm joiner nuts which are about 20mm long. Drill one end for wire and it's easy.

[Buffalo Bill]

Made some progress on the GS1000 racebike today. It was dropped off to me a couple of months ago - when i was undergoing radiation therapy - as a distraction.
It's not been used for around 5 years now. The owner/rider got sick then surrounded himself with kids...as you do.
So it needed reshimming, a general going over and an oil and filter change.
I'd done the reshim a couple of weeks ago but hadn't had the energy to do more since.
It uses stock buckets, ground flat on top - they're hardened right through - Nissan SR20 aftermarket titanium retainers machined for the GS collets and 10mm dia shims. I doubt you could get any lighter. Aftermarket springs, big stainless valves and locally ground cams - quite big....
So today i hooked up the aux battery - it has a plug in lead for the first start of the day - and warmed it through.
Dropped the pipe for access and dropped the warm oil. The pipe has rusted a bit so is going for gritblasting and will be repainted.
The adaptor on the tank for a remote tap has always had a slight ooze. Looks like one of the brass barbed fittings is cracked. I'll source another next week.

I'll take issue with Nessism re safety wiring. Aircraft standards don't apply. I've had this argument with scrutineers - juniors, I'm a very senior one myself.
The wiring is there to tell you when it's moved. 20gauge stainless won't hold a bolt that is torqued up to 20 ft/lb plus if it comes loose. It's also a useful indication of how much time has been spent on preparation. To make a point, I have in some cases used copper wire as nowhere in our rules is it specified what to use.
Oil filter wiring is much better done with a hoseclip around the body, wired back to the frame or something adjacent. GS style with nuts, I use 6mm joiner nuts which are about 20mm long. Drill one end for wire and it's easy.

All fascinating info about the race GS and your opinion about safety wiring.
Safety wiring has it's place and use, but for some it's a superstitious ritual.
It's mostly the dry bolts on the frame I find unscrewing from vibration and I'm wiring those for my purposes. I'm only wiring the wet oil system to satisfy the anxiety of scrutineers.
I understand having a belly pan to catch oil drips from gaskets, and occasional burst engines.
My best wishes for good results from your radiation therapy Greg.

[Peter#1266]

Todays job: Chasing a rattly clutch on my 82 GS1100Gk - swapped the basket which had 6 loose springs to one from the spares box that had only two loose springs. It's better but at least I'm a bit more comfortable about what the noise it. New filter and oil while Im in there. This bike has been parked since 2008 and a while ago I decided I needed to get back into it. So over the past few months its had the fork overhauled (seals, oil, head bearings) front brake upgrade (CBR600 disks, Concours 2 spot calipers, new pads, Concours adjustable span m/c, braided lines), new cam chain, valve grind and shim adjustment - much easier on the bench, new intake manifolds carb strip and clean replacing all the screws with stainless in-hex, new air filter, new battery, GS1100G seat replacing the rusted out GK item, rebuilt rear brakes and new pads, new tyres front and rear, relocated the reg/rectifier to under the steering head, many hours spent chasing wiring gremlins, new windscreen. Bandit 1200 muffler in place of the noisy thing it had before. Still looks every one of its 39 years though

[Johno]

Progressively servicing my 1981 GS1000G and it is time for a new oil foam air filter.

Rather than buy a purpose designed foam filter online, I've made my own from a sheet of foam from Unifilter Australia who are located on the Central Coast NSW.



www.unifilter.com.au/




Using both rideon and pushmowers during the last summer I've decided to replace the conventional manufacturers air filters with oil foam filters constructed from Unifilter sheet foam as seen in the photo above. I bought a 500mm x500mm medium density sheet. As you can see there is plenty left for the mower filters and the foam are washable and reusable with fresh oil.

[Gorminrider]

oooh! thumbsup! Bike shot of the day^^

[Buffalo Bill]

Todays job: Chasing a rattly clutch on my 82 GS1100Gk - swapped the basket which had 6 loose springs to one from the spares box that had only two loose springs. It's better but at least I'm a bit more comfortable about what the noise it. New filter and oil while Im in there. This bike has been parked since 2008 and a while ago I decided I needed to get back into it. So over the past few months its had the fork overhauled (seals, oil, head bearings) front brake upgrade (CBR600 disks, Concours 2 spot calipers, new pads, Concours adjustable span m/c, braided lines), new cam chain, valve grind and shim adjustment - much easier on the bench, new intake manifolds carb strip and clean replacing all the screws with stainless in-hex, new air filter, new battery, GS1100G seat replacing the rusted out GK item, rebuilt rear brakes and new pads, new tyres front and rear, relocated the reg/rectifier to under the steering head, many hours spent chasing wiring gremlins, new windscreen. Bandit 1200 muffler in place of the noisy thing it had before. Still looks every one of its 39 years though

WOW! Where's the pics and full story??? I wanna see pics of your brake mods. Really. I ride an 82 GS1100G.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

A few weekends ago I drove to WV to pick up a FREE complete exhaust for my bike. Guy from a Facebook group with cafe racer dreams for his T wanted it gone. Baffles are perfect, but the rest has a lot of rust. My pipes are near perfect but PO took a Playschool drill to the baffles. Research after the fact leaves me with the understanding that swapping baffles from his to mine is highly improbable.

So today I grabbed some Diet Coke and aluminum foil and started rubbing the rusty pipes. A short time working showed that they’ll never look as good as mine but could end up as passable, until I discovered a flange with a broken tab looking like A kid’s tooth that should have fallen out of his mouth on its own about 4 days ago. May try to use it anyway if it’s the biggest problem with the set.

Mine:


Rusty set with perfect baffles after about an hour of work on the right pipe. Left side has much worse rust.


Header pipes are cleaning up nicely.
Before:


After:


Broken tooth:

[alke46]

Checking the stator today. Bad news, it failed the test.

Looks like it is shopping time for a new one.

Any suggestions as to which brand and where to buy from?

Thanks.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Checking the stator today. Bad news, it failed the test.

Looks like it is shopping time for a new one.

Any suggestions as to which brand and where to buy from?

Thanks.

I replaced mine with an Electrosport, been great for 3 years so far. Also read good thing about Rick’s. Properly clean all connection and grounds. Eliminate the headlamp loop. Hopefully you’re also upgrading your RR to an SH775 at the same time.

[grcamna2]

[QUOTE=alke46;2652540]Checking the stator today. Bad news, it failed the test.

Looks like it is shopping time for a new one.

Any suggestions as to which brand and where to buy from?

Thanks(/QUOTE)



I have had this company rewind my stator,they're in Alabama;I highly recommend them because they do it all in-house and keeps quality.The owner has a speech impediment and it's difficult to understand him but his girlfriend is very clear.The place is called Custom Rewind.They are customrewindstators.com and they are good at what they do.
I sent them a burned-up stator from a bike they had never done before;they didn't have that particular one's prior specs in their logs so I sent them my NOS OEM spare(which I never want to use,really)and they tested it and recorded the specs and then rebuilt mine 'to spec'.
They are familiar with Suzuki GS stators and have some in stock.

[alke46]

I replaced mine with an Electrosport, been great for 3 years so far. Also read good thing about Rick’s. Properly clean all connection and grounds. Eliminate the headlamp loop. Hopefully you’re also upgrading your RR to an SH775 at the same time.

Headlight loop already done as well as the install of the SH775.

[alke46]

[QUOTE=grcamna2;2652545]

Checking the stator today. Bad news, it failed the test.

Looks like it is shopping time for a new one.

Any suggestions as to which brand and where to buy from?

Thanks(/QUOTE)



I have had this company rewind my stator,they're in Alabama;I highly recommend them because they do it all in-house and keeps quality.The owner has a speech impediment and it's difficult to understand him but his girlfriend is very clear.The place is called Custom Rewind.They are customrewindstators.com and they are good at what they do.
I sent them a burned-up stator from a bike they had never done before;they didn't have that particular one's prior specs in their logs so I sent them my NOS OEM spare(which I never want to use,really)and they tested it and recorded the specs and then rebuilt mine 'to spec'.
They are familiar with Suzuki GS stators and have some in stock.

Thanks Bill, I will check them out.

[Peter#1266]

The basic idea is courtesy of Salty Monk, but the GK has the fatter forks so I doubted that the brackets he sells would work. Calipers and Master cylinder were from Ebay. The CBR600 disks are aftermarket "Metal Gear" (for no reason other than thats what was available at the time.) The PCD of the Honda bolts is the same as Suzuki, but the holes need to be enlarged to Suzi bolt size. Caliper mounts are Concours, with additional piece welded on (professional welder and tested/certified afterwards).Everything aligned nicely afterward with the calipers right in position over the disks with no shimming necessary. The master cylinder is nice with the span adjustable lever.Calipers rebuilt with new seals and pads. All in all, a successful swap