what did you wrench on today??

[Shin-Ken 1074]

With a lithium battery on board, management/monitoring of the charging system is critical if you want warning of potential problems with an over-charged battery. The battery I have is 15 volt max so it's time to install a volt meter and to keep things tidy it will sit beside the engine oil temp gauge on the left clip-on. Cut and folded the aluminium, next is prime and paint.


Volt Bracket 1 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

Volt Bracket 2 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

[Burque73]

Started on the GK carbs today. In all, they're in great shape! Only weird thing is the pilot rubber plugs were melted. After digging the rubber out, the jets all came out no problemo.

They came off the head pretty easily thanks to those original break away boots.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Installed the engine oil temp and volt meter today.

volt meter 5 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

[Redman]

.....
They came off the head pretty easily thanks to those original break away boots........
.....l]

I dont know what to say about the melted rubber plus in carbs, well, other than HOT.
And same for the intake boots.

Judging by the allen head screws we can say those boots had been replaced at some point. And good that you dont have to deal with the original screws.

You find some replacement boots.....?

[Burque73]

I dont know what to say about the melted rubber plus in carbs, well, other than HOT.
And same for the intake boots.

Judging by the allen head screws we can say those boots had been replaced at some point. And good that you dont have to deal with the original screws.

You find some replacement boots.....?

I'm blaming ethanol for melted plugs. Unless possibly some sort of fuel additive was run through it.

Waiting on parts and shopping for more still, but no, I haven't found replacement boots. The PO said they were replaced, maybe the airbox side more recently since they look great. I agree about the allen head bolts. Surely somebody didn't just change the bolts out. Who knows. I can't seem to locate the LH boots OEM. Aftermarket ones are available, and much cheaper. May have to go that route. Have you used these from MOTO1988? $62 for two left and two right, with O-rings and clamps! ChapMoto has the lowest price for OEM that I've seen, but like other places, are out of stock.

I just sent the choke plungers to zed1015 so I've got some time before I need boots. In fact, there's plenty to do so maybe they'll have the OEM ones soon.

[johnod]

I'm blaming ethanol for melted plugs. Unless possibly some sort of fuel additive was run through it.

Waiting on parts and shopping for more still, but no, I haven't found replacement boots. The PO said they were replaced, maybe the airbox side more recently since they look great. I agree about the allen head bolts. Surely somebody didn't just change the bolts out. Who knows. I can't seem to locate the LH boots OEM. Aftermarket ones are available, and much cheaper. May have to go that route. Have you used these from MOTO1988? $62 for two left and two right, with O-rings and clamps! ChapMoto has the lowest price for OEM that I've seen, but like other places, are out of stock.

I just sent the choke plungers to zed1015 so I've got some time before I need boots. In fact, there's plenty to do so maybe they'll have the OEM ones soon.

These guys stuff is pretty good .

https://www.cruzinimage.net/category/item/itemgenre/motorcycle/suzuki/carb-insulators-suzuki/

[Burque73]

These guys stuff is pretty good .
https://www.cruzinimage.net/category...lators-suzuki/

Thank you!
They've got probably every model covered, except the 1100G. I'll keep looking...

[Big Block]

I bought two 750's a week ago, Got the red one running yesterday. I wasn't going to get the blue one running as I have chosen to sell it and figured I'd let the new owner do it their way. People in my area are cheap and lazy though so I couldn't help myself and got it up and running today, hasn't been licensed since 1983! new4.jpg

[oldGSfan]

Replacing seal nuts on '83 GS1100E, ordered Sep 6. Never arrived (Partzilla eBay seller). Made it all the way to SoCal then in the handoff from UPS to USPS it went AWOL. Partzilla sent replacement but only one. I notified them it was two. 2nd one late. Ugh. Something bizarre is going on with USPS lately, nothing seems to make it.

Working on the Suzuki is a nice easy diversion from the Norton. The design of that 750 is so awful in some ways. They are notorious for 'wet sumping' which is draining the contents of the oil tank into the supposedly dry crankcase. OK well, that can be bad but not catastrophic, right? You can drain the oil and refill it, or take chances on starting with a lot of oil in the sump that shouldn't be there. Or take great pain to resurface the oil pump tolerance - which may fix it, or put in a shutoff valve in the oil line, which may lunch your motor... or....

So then, another wonderful design is a dry clutch inside a primary case that has a chain needing lube. So if you put oil, per the manual, in the case - that clutch slips. Using ATF type F is the way. But... if your engine wet sumps and you leave it on the side stand, the oil migrates past the main crank seal into the primary case, and fouls the clutch - which it did on mine. Norton never bothered with a longer kickstand fe desert sleds, which stood taller due to suspension mods. So it leans way over, exacerbating the problem. There is also a clutch pushrod that goes through the clutch pack to the gearbox (inside the countershaft sprocket !) and will leak into the clutch as well.

Holy mother of gawd Nortons are pretty, but an absolute nightmare to work on. The main engine sprocket is a press fit on a taper shaft and is a bear to get off. You have to buy yet another special tool. Fixing oil on clutch plates has turned into replacing several seals, figuring out a way to stop wet-sumping, and more fun. I ordered new clutch friction plates and they are so thick I can't put them all in the basket with the SS spacers - too thick. Arrrgggh.

It has been a bad month for MC work!

[Grimly]

All the above is why I never bothered owning a Brit bike after my first one - a BSA Starfire. It was bad enough.

[johnod]

Replacing seal nuts on '83 GS1100E, ordered Sep 6. Never arrived (Partzilla eBay seller). Made it all the way to SoCal then in the handoff from UPS to USPS it went AWOL. Partzilla sent replacement but only one. I notified them it was two. 2nd one late. Ugh. Something bizarre is going on with USPS lately, nothing seems to make it.

Working on the Suzuki is a nice easy diversion from the Norton. The design of that 750 is so awful in some ways. They are notorious for 'wet sumping' which is draining the contents of the oil tank into the supposedly dry crankcase. OK well, that can be bad but not catastrophic, right? You can drain the oil and refill it, or take chances on starting with a lot of oil in the sump that shouldn't be there. Or take great pain to resurface the oil pump tolerance - which may fix it, or put in a shutoff valve in the oil line, which may lunch your motor... or....

So then, another wonderful design is a dry clutch inside a primary case that has a chain needing lube. So if you put oil, per the manual, in the case - that clutch slips. Using ATF type F is the way. But... if your engine wet sumps and you leave it on the side stand, the oil migrates past the main crank seal into the primary case, and fouls the clutch - which it did on mine. Norton never bothered with a longer kickstand fe desert sleds, which stood taller due to suspension mods. So it leans way over, exacerbating the problem. There is also a clutch pushrod that goes through the clutch pack to the gearbox (inside the countershaft sprocket !) and will leak into the clutch as well.

Holy mother of gawd Nortons are pretty, but an absolute nightmare to work on. The main engine sprocket is a press fit on a taper shaft and is a bear to get off. You have to buy yet another special tool. Fixing oil on clutch plates has turned into replacing several seals, figuring out a way to stop wet-sumping, and more fun. I ordered new clutch friction plates and they are so thick I can't put them all in the basket with the SS spacers - too thick. Arrrgggh.

It has been a bad month for MC work!

Ya so much fun Brit bikes, you forgot to mention all the screwy threads that require your having to special order every nut and bolt.
I have an 69 Interceptor, and a pre unit Triton project.

[oldGSfan]

Ya so much fun Brit bikes, you forgot to mention all the screwy threads that require your having to special order every nut and bolt.
I have an 69 Interceptor, and a pre unit Triton project.

I had to measure and triple cross reference every nut, bolt, and stud on the bike and make a spreadsheet to get the missing ones. What a chore. There are no frame diagrams for the N15CS so engine/trans plates and mounting bolts were very difficult to figure out. Thankfully aftermarket parts supply is good, prices are not bad, and I can get the stuff shipped to CA for less than it would cost to buy in the UK, because shipping is usually less than VAT - which I don't have to pay!

I got a set of super high-quality made in England 'King Dick' wrenches for free which are worth $300 or so. What's crazy is that the Whitworth (I'm still confused as there are so many thread pitches and names but commonly they are called Whitworth) size has nothing to do with the head of the bolt or the nut, it's the size of the threaded part. An 11/16" wrench is huge, it's 1-1/4" across the span. Check it out next to an SAE 11/16 and AirPods for size reference. I know you are familiar but others may be forewarned...

So there are only a few wrenches needed, as any bolt with an 11/16 shaft will use the same size wrench. Interesting.

Later Commandos started unifying but here is the list of threads that may be found on them. Thankfully mine has less 'unification' ha!

• Whitworth(BSW or "WW")
• BSF
• BA
• CEI/BSC(BSCycle)
• ME
• BSP
• UNF
• UNEF
• UNC
• Metric (spark plugs and spin-on filter)