Craigslist "funnies"

[Kerry]

I wonder if I list my bike for sale as a Suzuki GS550L Oil-on-Frame, how much I'd get for it?

[Killer Canary]

Bigger Honda XRs are OIF.

[wymple]

http://ottumwa.craigslist.org/mcy/5233180369.html

[Clone]

http://ottumwa.craigslist.org/mcy/5233180369.html

I never understood, why if it was a 3 cylinder did it have 4 exhaust outlets...............

[tkent02]

Because they looked cool.

[loud et]

Posted today on Cleveland CL:
I think we can all relate:

Selling a Bike on Craigslist?

fuel: gas
transmission: manual

Just a few tips for successful selling on Craigslist (motorcycles).

1.) Guide Book Values: acquaint yourself with KBB and NADA guidebook prices, but understand that most private party sales are best reflected in NADA low retail or KBB trade-in value categories, which are derived by aggregating "sold vehicle" data. Also check eBay sold auction listings to see what bikes like yours have been actually selling for in the bigger marketplace before pricing and posting.

2.) Damages/Needs: any damages are deductions from guide book values. This includes dings, dents, scratches, scrapes, broken parts, dead batteries, bald tires, clogged carbs etc. If your bike has ever fallen over, it is damaged unless you have replaced everything that got scuffed up.

3.) Accessories: on older bikes, these add virtually no value, and almost no one will pay extra for them. They are a matter of personal taste, and chances are the buyer won't want the bike configured exactly the way you have it accessorized.

4.) Performance Mods: are nice, but may indicate that the bike has been ridden hard and/or worked on by an amateur. A stock and unmolested bike will usually sell faster, and for the same or even more money than a modified one. Not everyone wants a faster bike with different cams, bigger jets, louder pipes or a noisy hyper-charger, and internal engine work often comes at the cost of reliability and economy.

5.) Custom Paint: this really limits the appeal of your bike to someone wanting a "custom" that matches your unique vision and taste.....a pretty rare occurrence in most cases. And there are a lot of hack painters out there that do airbrush work with improper materials and prep that won't withstand the test of time. Most astute buyers view customs and repaints as a deduction, especially skulls, gremlins, hobbits, eagles, clowns (especially clowns), bears, wolves, flames, etc. If you want to repaint your bike, have it done professionally and stick to the original color or maybe basic black if you ever expect to re-sell.

6.) Low Mileage: as we all know and hate to admit, Ohio has a limited riding season and very low mileage bikes are the norm, not the exception. We have an abundance of very low mile bikes so don't expect to get more for yours just because you have only put 2-3K a year on it.

7.) Storage and Maintenance: your bike must be properly stored and maintained to preserve its value; that includes (at least) dry indoor storage, wax and polish, ethanol fuel stabilizer in the tank and keeping the bike on a battery tender when not in use. Oil changes every 3500 miles and tires when needed. If you haven't done these things, the bike certainly has issues that will detract from its value.

8.) Salvage (R) title bikes: a lot of bikes are totaled insurance companies for cosmetic reasons, but they are still branded and are red flags for buyers. Expect about half of low retail value, even if properly rebuilt and state highway patrol inspected.

9.) No-title bikes: it is extremely difficult to sell a bike without a title, possibly illegal, and almost impossible to get a title unless you are the last person the bike was titled to (replacement title). No-title bikes usually sell for parts value (15-20% of low retail), and buyers are taking a big chance that it still may be stolen. Expect a visit from your local Sheriff if you post a bike with no title, and be prepared to prove ownership.

10.) Non-running and untested bikes: also involve a big risk for buyers, especially with sport bikes that are commonly ridden hard, poorly maintained and often abused by younger and more aggressive riders. Suggest you price well under book wholesale value to cover the risk you are asking buyers to undertake. A common issue today involves ethanol fuel contamination (phase separation) where goes bad in about three months now, requiring the system to be drained and flushed, filters replaced and often carbs to be rebuilt). Additionally, sport bikes often have bent shift forks and a blown out third gear from abuse.

11.) Pictures: if you can't take and include a few decent images of your bike, I suggest you don't bother listing it. No picture ads generally means no-calls. Several well taken photos, each side, speedo, tires and any damage shows that you know your bike and are willing to represent it honestly. Photos taken against a neutral backdrop like a garage door are always helpful.

12.) Description: many ads that don't include even the make, model, year or miles of the bike, or anywhere close to a complete and accurate description. If you expect someone to invest in a trip to come see your bike, be respectful of the fact that they are spending their gas money and time. Misrepresentations cause hard feelings and waste everyone's time, or worse yet, you won't even call. BTW: "Yellow Motorcycle, call for details" isn't a good ad. Not at all.

Don't get frustrated when your bike isn't selling, just understand how to properly place a value on it before posting, and really try to write a decent ad with proper syntax and conjugation. If you don't know how to read and write well, find someone to post for you who can. No one wants to buy from an illiterate, as it reflects poorly as well on their ability to maintain their rig.

And everyone thinks their bike is special, but in reality, very few consumer bikes are in "dealer retail" condition. And even when they are great cosmetically, they don't sell for "high retail" on Craigslist, as that price range is normally reserved for dealers who have an implied or stated warranty, offer financing, have store/sales overhead to factor in and have taken the time to service, detail and safety check the bike before selling.

Good luck, and be safe out there.

[Brendan W]

I never understood, why if it was a 3 cylinder did it have 4 exhaust outlets...............

It was more like 1+1/2+1+1/2

[witttom]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mcy/5229176106.html

Raging Sleeper - $13500 (Whidbey Island)







2011 BMW S1000rr
fuel: gas
transmission: manual

• safety tips
• prohibited items
• product recalls
• avoiding scams

2011 BMW S1000rr Superbike in sheep's clothing
194 BHP
Traction Control 4 modes
Shift Assistant
5000K
Bone stock except for the bodywork

[tkent02]

Posted today on Cleveland CL:
I think we can all relate:

Selling a Bike on Craigslist?

fuel: gas
transmission: manual

Just a few tips for successful selling on Craigslist (motorcycles).

1.) Guide Book Values: acquaint yourself with KBB and NADA guidebook prices, but understand that most private party sales are best reflected in NADA low retail or KBB trade-in value categories, which are derived by aggregating "sold vehicle" data. Also check eBay sold auction listings to see what bikes like yours have been actually selling for in the bigger marketplace before pricing and posting.

2.) Damages/Needs: any damages are deductions from guide book values. This includes dings, dents, scratches, scrapes, broken parts, dead batteries, bald tires, clogged carbs etc. If your bike has ever fallen over, it is damaged unless you have replaced everything that got scuffed up.

3.) Accessories: on older bikes, these add virtually no value, and almost no one will pay extra for them. They are a matter of personal taste, and chances are the buyer won't want the bike configured exactly the way you have it accessorized.

4.) Performance Mods: are nice, but may indicate that the bike has been ridden hard and/or worked on by an amateur. A stock and unmolested bike will usually sell faster, and for the same or even more money than a modified one. Not everyone wants a faster bike with different cams, bigger jets, louder pipes or a noisy hyper-charger, and internal engine work often comes at the cost of reliability and economy.

5.) Custom Paint: this really limits the appeal of your bike to someone wanting a "custom" that matches your unique vision and taste.....a pretty rare occurrence in most cases. And there are a lot of hack painters out there that do airbrush work with improper materials and prep that won't withstand the test of time. Most astute buyers view customs and repaints as a deduction, especially skulls, gremlins, hobbits, eagles, clowns (especially clowns), bears, wolves, flames, etc. If you want to repaint your bike, have it done professionally and stick to the original color or maybe basic black if you ever expect to re-sell.

6.) Low Mileage: as we all know and hate to admit, Ohio has a limited riding season and very low mileage bikes are the norm, not the exception. We have an abundance of very low mile bikes so don't expect to get more for yours just because you have only put 2-3K a year on it.

7.) Storage and Maintenance: your bike must be properly stored and maintained to preserve its value; that includes (at least) dry indoor storage, wax and polish, ethanol fuel stabilizer in the tank and keeping the bike on a battery tender when not in use. Oil changes every 3500 miles and tires when needed. If you haven't done these things, the bike certainly has issues that will detract from its value.

8.) Salvage (R) title bikes: a lot of bikes are totaled insurance companies for cosmetic reasons, but they are still branded and are red flags for buyers. Expect about half of low retail value, even if properly rebuilt and state highway patrol inspected.

9.) No-title bikes: it is extremely difficult to sell a bike without a title, possibly illegal, and almost impossible to get a title unless you are the last person the bike was titled to (replacement title). No-title bikes usually sell for parts value (15-20% of low retail), and buyers are taking a big chance that it still may be stolen. Expect a visit from your local Sheriff if you post a bike with no title, and be prepared to prove ownership.

10.) Non-running and untested bikes: also involve a big risk for buyers, especially with sport bikes that are commonly ridden hard, poorly maintained and often abused by younger and more aggressive riders. Suggest you price well under book wholesale value to cover the risk you are asking buyers to undertake. A common issue today involves ethanol fuel contamination (phase separation) where goes bad in about three months now, requiring the system to be drained and flushed, filters replaced and often carbs to be rebuilt). Additionally, sport bikes often have bent shift forks and a blown out third gear from abuse.

11.) Pictures: if you can't take and include a few decent images of your bike, I suggest you don't bother listing it. No picture ads generally means no-calls. Several well taken photos, each side, speedo, tires and any damage shows that you know your bike and are willing to represent it honestly. Photos taken against a neutral backdrop like a garage door are always helpful.

12.) Description: many ads that don't include even the make, model, year or miles of the bike, or anywhere close to a complete and accurate description. If you expect someone to invest in a trip to come see your bike, be respectful of the fact that they are spending their gas money and time. Misrepresentations cause hard feelings and waste everyone's time, or worse yet, you won't even call. BTW: "Yellow Motorcycle, call for details" isn't a good ad. Not at all.

Don't get frustrated when your bike isn't selling, just understand how to properly place a value on it before posting, and really try to write a decent ad with proper syntax and conjugation. If you don't know how to read and write well, find someone to post for you who can. No one wants to buy from an illiterate, as it reflects poorly as well on their ability to maintain their rig.

And everyone thinks their bike is special, but in reality, very few consumer bikes are in "dealer retail" condition. And even when they are great cosmetically, they don't sell for "high retail" on Craigslist, as that price range is normally reserved for dealers who have an implied or stated warranty, offer financing, have store/sales overhead to factor in and have taken the time to service, detail and safety check the bike before selling.

Good luck, and be safe out there.

All of those price guides are notoriously out of touch with reality on older bikes. $700 for a pristine skunk? Get real.

[trtsmb]

That poor Beemer. Someone is going to have their work cut out turning that back into a respectable bike.

[Clone]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mcy/5229176106.html

Meth is bad, don't let it ruin a bike near you.................

[bikemtn]

Here is one I found this morning.....tkent suggested I put in funnies....
Bike or remnants of bike is not mine....LOL

http://spokane.craigslist.org/mpo/5165128186.html

[Gorminrider]

Here is one I found this morning.....tkent suggested I put in funnies....
Bike or remnants of bike is not mine....LOL

Hold me back!






ooh! and it's got the race-style transmission too!

[Steve]

Uhhh, ... some assembly required.

.

[seanarthurmachado]

I wonder how many missing pieces there would be ?

Like buying a 5000 piece puzzle in an open box at a yard sale.... And trusting that j the pieces really ARE there.