Speaking of center stands

[GSXR7ED]

You're welcome Dave,

Can you post pics of this set up?


Ed

[Hinermad]

Can you post pics of this set up?

Sure, here you go. The rail that's attached to the outside of the shock absorber is part of the sissy bar. I can see the grab rail behind it, but there's not enough space between the sissy bar rail and the seat for me to get my fingers in there to grab either one.





Sorry the photos aren't better, but it's 15F here right now and there's a lake effect snow warning, so I wanted to get back inside.

Thanks again!

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Yes, having the grab rail is important. Everyone has a different way to describe the procedure to get the bike on the center stand. I used to just stand close to the bike, hold the bar and grab rail, push the stand to contact the ground, and simultaneously push to keep pressure on the stand as I lifted the rail up and the bike just pops back. I think many people make it harder on themselves because they lean away from the bike, thinking the bike could fall and they want to use their weight to stop the bike from falling away. In that posture, it's much more difficult.
I still use the same procedure but I use a 2X6 under the rear tire now. The bike practically jumps on to the stand now. I can see where using the wood under the front tire would work but I think using the wood under the rear tire is more effective. Try the rear and see what you think.

[GSXR7ED]

I definitely will try the rear tire trick...considering the front tire recommendation worked.


Ed

[Redman]

One hand on handlebar.
Push on the lever of the center stand, manover/tilt bike till can feel that BOTH of the centerstand feet are on the ground.
Other hand on the grab bar (or part of sissy bar, or whatrever so can pick up on back end of bike).
Stand on the the lever of the centerstand - this is enough to hold bike upright, it isnt going to fall over.
Keep leg straight if this hurts your knee.
Dont just push on the lever, stand on it, right over it, on top of it, maybe even stand on it so other foot is off the ground.
Then pull up on the grab bar, while standing on the lever. The total of you standing on the lever and you pulling up on the grab bar add together to lift the bike up on the center stand.

.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I definitely will try the rear tire trick...considering the front tire recommendation worked.


Ed

The rear tire is closer to the stand than the front tire. That means when you place the same piece of wood at the rear tire, the stand will travel further down before contacting the floor. That means you have less remaining travel to overcome as you lift the bike back.

[Hinermad]

Yes, having the grab rail is important. Everyone has a different way to describe the procedure to get the bike on the center stand. I used to just stand close to the bike, hold the bar and grab rail, push the stand to contact the ground, and simultaneously push to keep pressure on the stand as I lifted the rail up and the bike just pops back. I think many people make it harder on themselves because they lean away from the bike, thinking the bike could fall and they want to use their weight to stop the bike from falling away. In that posture, it's much more difficult.
I still use the same procedure but I use a 2X6 under the rear tire now. The bike practically jumps on to the stand now. I can see where using the wood under the front tire would work but I think using the wood under the rear tire is more effective. Try the rear and see what you think.

Thanks! I learned my lesson about trying to keep the bike off the ground. Keeping it upright and balanced over its center of gravity is much easier than wrestling with it.

Come Spring I'll remove the sissy bar and start using the grab rail. That sissy bar makes it pretty much impossible to hold onto the back end without twisting your arm or wrist into an unnatural angle.

Hopefully I can get to where I can use the center stand without elevating a tire, but if not I'll start parking with the rear tire on a paver.

[Boriqua]

you should post a pic of your sissybar. When I got my bike it to was equipped with a sissy bar. The sissy bar was mounted to a bracket at the rear but it was also mounted via an expandable rod to the upper shock mount. The factory grab rail was behind it and inaccessible but it was easy enough to just use the rod from the sissy bar that attached to the upper mount instead.

[Hinermad]

That's how my sissy bar mounts too, but that expanding rod is too close to the seat for me to get a good grip on it. I linked to a couple photos of it in a previous message in this thread.

[Gorminrider]

Andif ure struggling maybe ure shocks too short/compressed. tyres low profile

sharpy's tip is a good one to look twice at...old bikes, sagging springs...the "taller" the bike rests on its shocks, the easier it will be to boost up....again-for same reason KEITH KRAUSE's tip works-ie:room for the center stand to swing down.

and ... 13" versus 12" shocks make a big difference too ...

[Boriqua]

I am not seeing any links to your bike but here is mine before i removed the backrest. It was certainly close to the bodywork but I was still able to use it instead of the grab rail.

[Hinermad]

I am not seeing any links to your bike but here is mine before i removed the backrest. It was certainly close to the bodywork but I was still able to use it instead of the grab rail.

Here's a couple shots of mine, one looking down between the sissy bar rail and the seat, the other looking under it at the grab rail.

https://app.box.com/s/heqp0bnpvq8u2ts5tmzgbvq32qsnfxb0

https://app.box.com/s/dxhgk0x17czaopmvo065vwbhhjg1poff

I can't get my fingers between the sissy bar rail and seat past about the second knuckle, so I can't get a good enough grip to do much lifting.

[Boriqua]

That is pretty much how mine was .. you dont really need to "grab" the rail. Since most of your effort is coming from your downward pressure on the center stand all you need do is hook your hand under the rail and hoist. I did it for months like that. It is though easier and nicer with the sissy bar rail removed but easy enough even when it was there.

[2BRacing]

....I can't get my fingers between the sissy bar rail and seat past about the second knuckle, so I can't get a good enough grip to do much lifting.

Try holding your hand so that your palm is cupped underneath the sissy bar rail close to shock mounting side, and then pull up, instead of trying to hold your hand with your palm facing downwards at the top of the rail.

[salty_monk]

Here's a couple shots of mine, one looking down between the sissy bar rail and the seat, the other looking under it at the grab rail.

https://app.box.com/s/heqp0bnpvq8u2ts5tmzgbvq32qsnfxb0

https://app.box.com/s/dxhgk0x17czaopmvo065vwbhhjg1poff

I can't get my fingers between the sissy bar rail and seat past about the second knuckle, so I can't get a good enough grip to do much lifting.

Stick some packing pieces behind the handle to move it out a few mm then.. Maybe some oversized Square nuts as washers would be the easiest way to do it. It'll barely be visible but will let your knuckles pass...

Don't forget to check if the bolts are still long enough... If the front is on the shock bolt see if you can change the order of the spacers on that bolt to make it work (without throwing the shock out of line) or just pack out the back only.