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    Engine rebuild question

    How difficult is the 1000cc lower end to disassemble, and reassemble, for an average home mechanic?

    Thanks
    1982 Katana 1100, 1997 HD Ultra Classic, 1996 Buell S2T, 2002 BMW K1200RS, 1969 Royal Enfield Interceptor Triton project
    New project 1979 GS1000S
    Recently sold 1979 Honda CBX1000

    #2
    We are all pretty much ABOVE average mechanics, so we don't know how it would be for the average guy.

    If you know which end of a screwdriver to pound on, and can follow a manual, it should not be much of a problem.

    Why do you need to get into the lower end?

    .
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    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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      #3
      Originally posted by johnod View Post
      How difficult is the 1000cc lower end to disassemble, and reassemble, for an average home mechanic?

      Thanks
      It's not that hard if you have mechanical ability. I wouldn't recommend it if you don't wrench on things often though unless you have help from someone that does. Download the manual. http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/
      :cool:GSRick
      No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.

      Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
      Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.

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        #4
        And take lots of pics when pulling apart. 10 and 12mm T-bar and/or sockets. Impact driver set, circlip pliers, Rattle gun, phillips screw driver, 32mm and 19mm sockets (i think) and a friggn big hammer. Last tool that was quoated you need to throw at the wall when you cant split the cases due to you missed undoing few bolts. Take your time and read the genuine manual . If stuck just stop and ask. 80% sure i said everything. but been wrong before

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Steve View Post
          We are all pretty much ABOVE average mechanics, so we don't know how it would be for the average guy.

          If you know which end of a screwdriver to pound on, and can follow a manual, it should not be much of a problem.

          Why do you need to get into the lower end?

          .


          I don't need to get into the bottom end, just wondered, should I ever need to.

          Thinking of a bike , I may get, just wondered, in case it should be required.

          Thanks for replies.
          1982 Katana 1100, 1997 HD Ultra Classic, 1996 Buell S2T, 2002 BMW K1200RS, 1969 Royal Enfield Interceptor Triton project
          New project 1979 GS1000S
          Recently sold 1979 Honda CBX1000

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by johnod View Post
            I don't need to get into the bottom end, just wondered, should I ever need to.

            Thinking of a bike , I may get, just wondered, in case it should be required.

            Thanks for replies.


            Well, that's sort of a different question...

            As motorcycle engines go, a GS engine is one of the simplest and easiest to service. Any air-cooled engine is a good bit simpler than a water-cooled engine.

            The other half of the question is "how likely is it you'll need to split the cases", and the answer is "less likely than many". The shift forks, etc. are not particularly vulnerable, so most surviving GS engines shift quite nicely. The gears, gear dogs and shift forks can still get damaged if you really work at it, of course; there just aren't any widespread issues as with some other bikes.

            GS engines also don't suffer from some of the idiotic engineering choices found on less bikes that can lead to the need to remove the engine and/or split the cases. For example, the Yamaha Seca starter issues, several bikes that routinely lose second gear, Honda Gold Wing stators, etc.


            Lots of folks here have successfully rebuilt the top end of their GS with little previous wrenching experience. Go slow, take your time, and read the directions and you'll do fine. Opening the bottom end is also within reach of a similar level of experience. And you'll never understand how a motorcycle transmission works until you have one open in front of you and play with it a while.
            Last edited by bwringer; 04-09-2018, 02:35 PM.
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            Comment


              #7
              Thanks, good to hear that the bottom end is good solid base.
              You're right about the other half of the question, a I was wondering that in particular.
              1982 Katana 1100, 1997 HD Ultra Classic, 1996 Buell S2T, 2002 BMW K1200RS, 1969 Royal Enfield Interceptor Triton project
              New project 1979 GS1000S
              Recently sold 1979 Honda CBX1000

              Comment


                #8
                If you have any doubts about just how solid a base the GS engine is, consider that the 16-valve version (started with the 1100 in 1980) is still the basis of MANY winning drag racers today. We have a few racers on the forum and even have one here that builds race engines. Rest easy that you have the basis for a GREAT bike.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                Family Portrait
                Siblings and Spouses
                Mom's first ride
                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                Comment


                  #9
                  I be more worried about doing the top end, WAY more technical. More small stuff that need to be done PROPERLY and everything has to be dam good - perfect or dont do it al all.

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