Seals Questions

[johnod]

GS1000S

Bike sat unused for about 28 years.

I've taken top end off, but have no plans to split cases.

While the engine is on the stand and easy to get at, what seals are likely to need replacing, that I can do without splitting the cases?
Or should I leave them alone, no signs of leaks from seals that I can see?

Thanks

[Sandy]

Only seals that definitely should be done are the valves seals as far as know. The right crankshaft seal can be changed without splitting the cases but that one doesn't normally cause a problem. Easy enough to do now or later with the motor in the frsme. Tach drive seals are notorious for leaking but again easy enough to do with the motor in the frsme when and if required. I'm assuming you're pulling the cylinders and be replacing the base gasket and seals there as well.

[sharpy]

28 years, ill be doing all. The Sprocket seal you cant do unless the cases are split. While you in the bottom end you can inspect every thing as if it didnt have fresh oil in it all the acid in the oil be nibbling away at the bearings and stuff that have sat in same spot for all that time.

[greg78gs750]

a 1000s i agree with this, do it all once and correctly

28 years, ill be doing all. The Sprocket seal you cant do unless the cases are split. While you in the bottom end you can inspect every thing as if it didnt have fresh oil in it all the acid in the oil be nibbling away at the bearings and stuff that have sat in same spot for all that time.

[johnod]

That might be great, but I don't know that I'm capable of splitting cases and getting it all back together, trans, crank , etc etc

[KEITH KRAUSE]

That might be great, but I don't know that I'm capable of splitting cases and getting it all back together, trans, crank , etc etc

More work, I know, but replacing all the seals is what I'd do. It would suck to do only some of the seals and see it leak upon start up or soon after. Those seals have hardened and not been exposed to hot/cold expansion.
Also, I may be wrong, but the factory seals are still made of a rubber that will more easily harden with time and leak much sooner than the valve guide seals sold by APE or other quality maker. Personally, I always think long term (I've owned my '79 GS1000E since new) and I bought the APE valve guide seals. A year ago they were $90 for a complete set I believe. I also decided to scrap the stock cam chain tensioner for an APE manual adjust tensioner, about $60. Very happy with both. Good luck.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

By the way, the APE valve guide seals were recommended by Rapidray, a respected member here who has done a lot of engine work, including my valve job/cylinder work. Maybe you can look him up or find another member near you to help you work on your bike?

[Nessism]

I wouldn't split the cases. Just do the seals in the top end. Use OEM Suzuki gaskets and seals including the following...

- oblong O-rings on base gasket
- base gasket
- head gasket
- valve cover gasket
- cam chain tensioner seals (find the tutorial)
- cam drive seal and O-ring
- valve stem seals (aftermarket viton seals are good)
- intake boots w/O-rings (if the boots are soft and pliable they can stay if money is tight, but get the O-rings).

New rings are typically a good idea when the top end is off as long as the bores measure with less than .001" out of round and taper. If the bores exceed that I'd get OS pistons and have a machine shop bore the cylinder. If reusing old parts use a bottle brush hone, 240 grit is good, before installing new rings.

[johnod]

I wouldn't split the cases. Just do the seals in the top end. Use OEM Suzuki gaskets and seals including the following...

- oblong O-rings on base gasket
- base gasket
- head gasket
- valve cover gasket
- cam chain tensioner seals (find the tutorial)
- cam drive seal and O-ring
- valve stem seals (aftermarket viton seals are good)
- intake boots w/O-rings (if the boots are soft and pliable they can stay if money is tight, but get the O-rings).

New rings are typically a good idea when the top end is off as long as the bores measure with less than .001" out of round and taper. If the bores exceed that I'd get OS pistons and have a machine shop bore the cylinder. If reusing old parts use a bottle brush hone, 240 grit is good, before installing new rings.

Yep , doing all that, with APE valve seals.

What do you mean cam drive seals?

[Nessism]

Yep , doing all that, with APE valve seals.

What do you mean cam drive seals?

My bad. Should have said tach drive (off the cam).

[johnod]

My bad. Should have said tach drive (off the cam).

Got it, yep doing that too.

[Nessism]

Forgot to mention the copper washers that go under the head nuts. Can't remember if they only go on the outside studs or all? Anyway, new ones are useful. And since you are doing all that a carb rebuild with new O-rings is recommended as well. Cycleorings.com sells a kit

[johnod]

Forgot to mention the copper washers that go under the head nuts. Can't remember if they only go on the outside studs or all? Anyway, new ones are useful. And since you are doing all that a carb rebuild with new O-rings is recommended as well. Cycleorings.com sells a kit

Got those, and carbs are out for rebuild.

[Steve]

Forgot to mention the copper washers that go under the head nuts. Can't remember if they only go on the outside studs or all?

They only go on the four outside studs/nuts. They are essentially copper crush washer gaskets for the oil passages that come up around the studs.

.

[Nessism]

Got those, and carbs are out for rebuild.

Please tell us you didn't send them to George Wired! (or is is wired george?)