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Exhaust header bolts to studs

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    Exhaust header bolts to studs

    Anyone changed the exhaust header bolts to studs?

    If so what studs ?

    Thanks
    1982 Katana 1100, 1997 HD Ultra Classic, 1996 Buell S2T, 2002 BMW K1200RS, 1969 Royal Enfield Interceptor Triton project
    New project 1979 GS1000S
    Recently sold 1979 Honda CBX1000

    #2
    Yes, some have done it.

    Since I am not one of them, I have no idea what studs were used, but I have to ask, ...
    what is your motivation to use studs instead of bolts?

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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      #3
      The thread size is 8mm x 1.25. Napa sells studs this size. I just used threaded rod cut to length.
      NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

      Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
      Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

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        #4
        The motivation is to stop the inevitable thread stripping that occurs with bolts into the aluminum head.
        NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

        Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
        Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

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          #5
          Originally posted by 1980GS1000E View Post
          The motivation is to stop the inevitable thread stripping that occurs with bolts into the aluminum head.
          Exactly!!!!
          No signature :(

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 1980GS1000E View Post
            The motivation is to stop the inevitable thread stripping that occurs with bolts into the aluminum head.
            Yep that's it.
            1982 Katana 1100, 1997 HD Ultra Classic, 1996 Buell S2T, 2002 BMW K1200RS, 1969 Royal Enfield Interceptor Triton project
            New project 1979 GS1000S
            Recently sold 1979 Honda CBX1000

            Comment


              #7
              OK, I understand that part, but it only wears if the bolts are in and out on a regular basis.

              I know that some headers require removal for an oil change, that would provide a bit of 'motivation'.

              Otherwise, the header will likely not be off more than once or twice every three or four years, I don't think there would be that much wear on the bolt holes.

              One other thing to consider: because the studs stick out farther, it will be a bit harder to wrangle the header that much farther away from the engine when you do find the need to remove it.

              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
              Family Portrait
              Siblings and Spouses
              Mom's first ride
              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Steve View Post
                OK, I understand that part, but it only wears if the bolts are in and out on a regular basis.

                I know that some headers require removal for an oil change, that would provide a bit of 'motivation'.

                Otherwise, the header will likely not be off more than once or twice every three or four years, I don't think there would be that much wear on the bolt holes.

                One other thing to consider: because the studs stick out farther, it will be a bit harder to wrangle the header that much farther away from the engine when you do find the need to remove it.

                .
                I was taking mine off every year to paint...so that's why I got it ceramic coated...shouldn't have to take it off again.
                No signature :(

                Comment


                  #9
                  I was wondering this on mine since I took off to repair some leaks. I was amazing the allen headed bolts all came out

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I've also seriously considered studs. I have to remove my Yosh pipe to change the oil. Major pain in the butt. I've already chased the threads with a tap to keep them clean, but it's always a risk taking them on and off.
                    1979 GS1000S,

                    1982 Honda CX500 Turbo, 1982 Honda MB5 w/CR80 motor, 1977 Honda "nekid" Goldwing, 1976 Honda CB550F cafe', 1972 Honda XL250 cafe'

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
                      I've also seriously considered studs. I have to remove my Yosh pipe to change the oil. Major pain in the butt. I've already chased the threads with a tap to keep them clean, but it's always a risk taking them on and off.
                      And the tap chews up the threads as well.
                      1982 Katana 1100, 1997 HD Ultra Classic, 1996 Buell S2T, 2002 BMW K1200RS, 1969 Royal Enfield Interceptor Triton project
                      New project 1979 GS1000S
                      Recently sold 1979 Honda CBX1000

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I wonder whether the type of steel used is important in this application...a softer nut on a harder stud might protect the stud threads and save having to replace the stud in the future (which would be more difficult than the oem bolt).

                        I've been abe to get the oems out in every case except my practise attempts on a spare engine, so I wonder too if the OEMs should be replaced whenever removal was difficult.

                        ...and not to be anal but I like the organisation of the forum pretty well.
                        This area is to be used only for general GS topics. For non-GS related topics, join the Off-Topic usergroup. Technical questions are not to be posted here.
                        There's been a few showing up here lately

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