GS550E valve question

[roeme]

Ultrasonic cleaning is good for the outside of the carbs, not the inside.
(...)

Well, it did clean the passages on my carbs. Needed time though.

[Rijko]

Well, it did clean the passages on my carbs. Needed time though.

That was lucky ... and since it needed time, it's probable that the extended soak in the cleaning liquid did most of the cleaning process of the passages.
My buddy had a shop specializing in cleaning carbs and he told me the ultrasonic waves through the liquid hit the outside of the carb and
that creates a tiny exploding air bubble, which blasts dirt off the carb.
But most cleaners are not powerful enough to stir dirt on the inside of a carb, let alone gummed up or dirt-blocked passages.

[roeme]

That was lucky ... and since it needed time, it's probable that the extended soak in the cleaning liquid did most of the cleaning process of the passages.
My buddy had a shop specializing in cleaning carbs and he told me the ultrasonic waves through the liquid hit the outside of the carb and
that creates a tiny exploding air bubble, which blasts dirt off the carb.
But most cleaners are not powerful enough to stir dirt on the inside of a carb, let alone gummed up or dirt-blocked passages.

The cleaning solution was distilled water with a squirt of liquid dish soap. That can't cut through dried out/varnished fuel. Maybe if you leave it soaking for centuries...

Your friend explained the gist of it correctly. But note that the ultrasonic waves travel don't magically stop at any orifices, just like the regular sound waves we humans can hear. Which also nicely highlights
that you'll need enough power. And ultrasonic transducers have become cheap; we've payed a few hundred bucks for our unit back then, similarly powerful units now can be had for a much better price.

Not cheap per se, you'll still have to pay a bit, but it's nowhere near the prices of yore.


Anyway, OP didn't let us know about the state of his O-Rings...and I'm not sure it's the carbs if the bike doesn't restart after coming up to temp. It did start and run, after all.

[Trolleywire]

The cleaning solution was distilled water with a squirt of liquid dish soap. That can't cut through dried out/varnished fuel. Maybe if you leave it soaking for centuries...

Your friend explained the gist of it correctly. But note that the ultrasonic waves travel don't magically stop at any orifices, just like the regular sound waves we humans can hear. Which also nicely highlights
that you'll need enough power. And ultrasonic transducers have become cheap; we've payed a few hundred bucks for our unit back then, similarly powerful units now can be had for a much better price.

Not cheap per se, you'll still have to pay a bit, but it's nowhere near the prices of yore.


Anyway, OP didn't let us know about the state of his O-Rings...and I'm not sure it's the carbs if the bike doesn't restart after coming up to temp. It did start and run, after al l.

hi, thanks for the replies. I did put new boots on with new o-rings that it came with.

[Trolleywire]

hi, thanks for the replies. I did put new boots on with new o-rings that it came with.

looks like carbs off again. Have to get all the little o-rings it looks like… carb dip and some spray. If there is anything else causing my erratic idle and not starting when up to temp? Thx

[Trolleywire]

Ok, so had some time to get back at the bike. I’ve decided it probably won’t be on the road this season if I can’t get it to run properly. So, completely cleaned carbs. Same problem, won’t start back up when up to temp. Could it be the Cdi? I put used coils on and tested ohms on them with the caps off and numbers fine. It starts up right away with choke on and once it warms up and stalls… no hope of starting back up. It will with starting fluid but that’s not good for the engine. Makes me think that I should just order new brand new aftermarket coils, they could go bad once warm? Or the cdi? Anyways, I’m scratching my head. Thx.

[phydeauxmutt]

Could it be the Cdi?

I can say "no way can/will it be your CDI".

I can say that with certainty because no Suzuki GS ever left the factory with CDI.

You might have "electronic ignition", but that is based on the year of the bike (which you have not stated). The "ignitor". which is an electronic igntion component, was introduced with the 1980 model year bikes. They have been known to have problems, but not so much temperature related. Coils do have temperature-related problems, but they usually have to be pretty hot.

[Trolleywire]

I can say "no way can/will it be your CDI".

I can say that with certainty because no Suzuki GS ever left the factory with CDI.

You might have "electronic ignition", but that is based on the year of the bike (which you have not stated). The "ignitor". which is an electronic igntion component, was introduced with the 1980 model year bikes. They have been known to have problems, but not so much temperature related. Coils do have temperature-related problems, but they usually have to be pretty hot.

thanks, it’s a 1980 550E